Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Alright, need some help...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BlazerWheels, Dec 16, 2003.

  1. BlazerWheels

    BlazerWheels 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2003
    Posts:
    587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California
    Before you all start wetting your pants laughing, I've never done it before /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif....How do you set/check timing. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I know you need a light, and you adjust the distributor...what I need are specific steps? and what should the timing be set to?
    It is a stock 350 in a '85 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif. It is missing. I figured I would start with the timing, then the plugs, cap, rotor, etc...

    OK, now start the laughing, but also give me the info I need /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

    Thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2001
    Posts:
    5,068
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Mineral Springs, NC
    Dont feel bad ive never done it before either, and dont know how. I do know however on the comp controlled timin vehicles there is a (tan?) wire going to the (distributor?) that you have to unplug, or else you will never set timing the comp will keep changing it back.
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,170
    Likes Received:
    1,379
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    The distributor has a hold down clamp/bolt that needs to be loosened. Once loose the distributor can be turned either direction to advance or retard the timing.

    The timing light is aimed at a tab on the timing chain cover. The harmonic balancer has a 'zero' mark notched in it...usually a bit of 'white out' or soapstone across the mark (on the balancer)will make it a lot easier to see. The inductive timing guns clip onto the number 1 spark plug lead, and each time that cylinder fires the timing light 'blinks'. With each blink it'll light up the mark on the balancer and show you where it's firing.

    Find a manual for your truck and turn the distributor a little each way to see how it affects the marks you're watching. Adjust the distributor until the white line lines up with the correct mark on the timing tab.

    You can also check you mechanical advance using the light, just rev it up while watching the marks. You should see the timing mark advance with more rpm's.

    Once you have the timing set don't forget to tighten down the hold down plate.

    Also, depending on the mileage and wear on the timing chain, you may need to run a bit more advance than spec'd. I've had many engines that ran best with 6-12 degrees more advance than the stock spec's. All high milers with sloppy timing chains.

    Rene
     
  4. BlazerWheels

    BlazerWheels 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2003
    Posts:
    587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California
    Thanks Rene, this is just what I needed!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2003
    Posts:
    2,664
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Quartz Hill, So. Cal
    IF....your truck is computer controlled you unhook the Brownish wire that breaks out of the wire loom near the distributor first. You set timing to ZERO to +2 degrees. Reconnect the wire. The computer takes care of the advance.

    If you dont have a computer controlled truck, and have a standard distributor with a vac advance module, unhook the advance and set it for around 8 degrees or so.

    Do not loosten the hold down tab very much cuz the distributor can spin or move when you try and start it and that will be a big problem (learned that the hard way). Loosen it a little so you have to apply a little force to get it to turn. Beware of the plug wires, they can bite!

    Let us know if you need more /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. BlazerWheels

    BlazerWheels 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2003
    Posts:
    587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California
    I was just about to ask this question as mine IS computer controlled. So just set it to 0???
     
  7. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2003
    Posts:
    2,664
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Quartz Hill, So. Cal
    Yes /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,170
    Likes Received:
    1,379
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    A stock 85 Blazer is not computer controlled. Set it somewhere around 8* BTDC.

    Rene
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,979
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    [ QUOTE ]
    stock 85 Blazer is not computer controlled.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Unless it's a CA truck. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  10. BlazerWheels

    BlazerWheels 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2003
    Posts:
    587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California
    [ QUOTE ]
    A stock 85 Blazer is not computer controlled. Set it somewhere around 8* BTDC.

    Rene

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Behind the glove box is a little silver box with a WHOLE BUNCH of wires coming out of it...isn't that the computer??? Yes, it IS a CA truck.
     
  11. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,170
    Likes Received:
    1,379
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    I've never laid eyes on an 85 Cali Blazer. The rest of the planet didn't get the computer stuff til 87 though.

    Rene
     
  12. BlazerWheels

    BlazerWheels 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2003
    Posts:
    587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California
    I have been told that even some 84's are computer controlled here in the great republic of Kalifornia
     
  13. btolenti

    btolenti 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2003
    Posts:
    644
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Gilroy, CA
    Mine is computer controlled and required 8 degrees of advance with computer unhooked!....
     
  14. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2001
    Posts:
    8,905
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    central IL
    the ECM behind glovebox would be TBI ECM, the pre ECM years got a msaller box and it was mounted next to pedals standing up under dash, and is for timing controls, EST system, electronic carb and distributor, on 80-up 305 models mainly and under 3/4 ton GVW

    your timing specs are liste don white sticker underhood on rad support or on the air cleaner assembly, cant miss it, and if you have vacuum advancew then you have to disconnect it when setting timing, some 80-up engines have vac advance and some dont- that goes for with or without EST, some ppl claim that all EST controleld engines did not get vac advanc,e but this is false, i have seen EST HEI with vac advance and also without, it all dpeend son year make and model, the smog years were complicated years and not all EST vehicles got exact same setup, heck evne some didnt get a MAP sensor, and others did, all before 1987
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,979
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    I think you are at least partially mistaken. EST and ECM's (CCC or not) were all mounted above the glovebox in "later" years. My '86 Blazer tub was a 6.2 diesel, and has the ECM mounts above the glovebox. (also has the ALDL connector holes drilled just like a TBI truck, on th lower edge of the dash, above the e-brake) There are 2-4 angled pieces of metal spot welded to the upper part of the dash, with one hole each. The plastic ECM "holder" bolts to those holes.

    ESC only trucks (non-CCC obviously) that I have seen also utilize this area to mount the ESC "box". The ESC box is smaller than the ECM's.

    Perhaps the earlier years DID mount the ESC or ECM elsewhere, however, starting with the first year of "electronic" cruise control, and/or the 700R4 (1982 IIRC) the box above the gas pedal was for the VSS (all 700's and the electronic cruise trucks) or cruise functions.

    Regardless, the CA '85 owner said the ECM was above the glovebox, so that clarifies 1985.

    I've looked in a 1981 cab, and it did NOT have provisions for the ESC/ECM to be mounted above the glovebox, but that year also didn't have VSS/Electric cruise, which means if ESC was available on some 1981 trucks, it had to be mounted somewhere else.
     
  16. BlazerWheels

    BlazerWheels 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2003
    Posts:
    587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California
    [ QUOTE ]
    Mine is computer controlled and required 8 degrees of advance with computer unhooked!....

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Do you keep the computer unhooked, or just while setting the timing???
     
  17. btolenti

    btolenti 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2003
    Posts:
    644
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Gilroy, CA
    You need to unplug the 4 pin connector....then time it to specs on the sticker on the radiator support. Actually, mine gives you instructions on how to time it properly. You might want to check there first! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  18. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2003
    Posts:
    2,664
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Quartz Hill, So. Cal
    My 88 decal says disconnect single tan/blk wire, set timing to 0 degs.

    In my POS Haynes book it says follow instructions on decal then talks about normal distributors for setting dwell and timing to 8deg BTDC.

    If you have the single tan/black wire that breaks out of the harness on the drivers side with a plud to disconnect it, it comp controlled and set to zero.
     

Share This Page