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Alright, now im starting to get pissed...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by dirtwarrior17, Apr 1, 2005.

  1. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    Checked all my fusible links and they are all good... battery cables all are good, alternator wires all good, ground wires good, and i still don't have power. The starter is good... the small stud moves around but thats because its supposed to have 2 nuts instead of one and when you tighten the cable on it won't move. I checked for currency on the solenoid studs and it all checks out... and i just wire brushed all the battery connections.

    What else is left?

    I'm stumped.
     
  2. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    You SURE the grounds are good? I had that problem once...I was SURE, and nothing...ended up being a ground wire that I 'thought' was good.

    I hate when sheit like that happens, it'll drive you crazy!
    good luck!
     
  3. wraenking

    wraenking 1/2 ton status

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    no power when you turn the key? no lights?
     
  4. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    not one piece of electrical on my truck works, no lights, beeps, nothin.

    I know its not a ground wire because it was running and then i heard a pop saw smoke and shut it off and i haven't had power ever since. The starter/battery cable melted to the header and melted half way through it... i fixed that problem and have currency in that wire but still no power.

    Could a dead alternator cause this? I don't think it would because when i touch all the wires that are supposed to be hooked up to the alternator nothing happens. Just want to cover everything so i can check it off the list.
     
  5. wraenking

    wraenking 1/2 ton status

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    did you check that braided starp behind the left side of the motor? i had that one smoke on me once
     
  6. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    yep... multimeter says its oK.
     
  7. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Your problem is most likely in the wire that feeds the positive power post on the firewall next to the brake booster. Check it with a multimeter and I bet you don't have power there.

    The wire that powers that post runs down to the starter. It probably shorted out and fired the fusible link in the wire. The wire itself has a fuseable link built in and if the power is off it will burn threw the wire and kill the power to the interior.

    That is probably your problem, you just have to figure out where the wire arced out and fix that problem and add a fusible link back inline on the power wire.

    Harley
     
  8. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    P.S. The post on your firewall next to the brake booster should have + power all the time.

    Harley
     
  9. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    Oh man... I got a feeling i'm gonna workin on this one for a long time... I have power through my entire circuit in the engine comparment... no blown fuses, fusible links, or bad wires. what else is there?
     
  10. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Do you have power to the relay post on the firewall?

    Harley
     
  11. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    If its the one with 3 wires total on it with 2 posts then yeah.
     
  12. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Then check out the wire that runs from that post to the inside of the cab. Probe it periodically and see if it has power to it. Check it on the inside of the cab where it comes threw.

    Then if you have power threw that wire Jab the big red wire that will be underneith the dash. The red wire will be in 2 places. Before the ignition switch and after. It should have power before the ignition switch but not after unless the key is on.

    Turn the key to the on position. If there is not power in that wire after the ignition is on then the ignition switch is probably bad.

    Does anything work? Dome light, gauges, key buzzer?

    Harley
     
  13. Fierospeeder

    Fierospeeder Banned

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    bump


    anything?
     
  14. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    nope....

    waiting on a steering wheel puller and a lock plate remover so i can get at the ignition... since everything esle works and i was able to start it without a key(before i lost power) im guessing the ignition tumbler is shot.
     
  15. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    The ignition switch isn't under the steering wheel, it's on the top side of the steering column near the brake pedal and just below that is the neutral safety switch. If you remove the bolts that hold the steering column to the underside of the dash board it makes it much easier to see. :thumb:

    I'm assuming you think the ignition switch is under the steering wheel because you said you need to get the lock plate tool. Unless you're thinking about just changing the lock cylinder anyways then i understand needing the plock plate tool.
     
  16. Fierospeeder

    Fierospeeder Banned

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    what 4X4 said


    get to the ignition switch and not the key. It's usually a box shape, with a ton of wires going into it, then theres a rod that goes towards the key.

    Try to move the rod up and down, and that should start your truck up. Moving the rod acts as if the key is turning to start the vehicle.
     
  17. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    hold up... are you talkin about an 88? how does that work? only way I could see them doing that is with linkcage.... i have a tumbler in my garage and its got 3 prongs and one of em says battery. I know there is definetly a switch in the tumbler. Which one would be the first to fry electrically?

    Would that kill all my power?
     
  18. Fierospeeder

    Fierospeeder Banned

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    i believe those wires are for that buzzing sound when you have your keys in the ignition and your door is open.
     
  19. cubuffsfan

    cubuffsfan Registered Member

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    I missed the original thread but I assume you've checked for continuity through the solenoid, battery, and at fuse box. I had a similar problem when I had my 79. Turned out to be a connection arcing from the ignition switch wire to the block at the starter. Would recommend turning the solenoid wheel. After re-installation when you go to start it if there is a short you will have power briefly and then when you turn it over you will hear a snap sound and then have nothing. Also try crossing the connection with a screwdriver with the key in the on position. If it cranks and then dies it is most likely a problem with your switch, tumbler or wiring between (usually a fusible link).
     
  20. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    gitrdone...

    I took the starter out and checked all that as well as every single fusible link and wire inside the engine compartment.

    I forgot to try the screwdriver trick... actually i did it but i never put the key in the on position. LOL

    Since everything else works i am going to check the tumbler and switch... the tumbler needs to be replaced anyway and from what i hear the switch is bad...
     

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