Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

ALT. wire keeps melting?????

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by TONYP, Aug 13, 2003.

  1. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2002
    Posts:
    2,116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    so cal
    been driving my K5 for about 3 month without the radio fuse in cause I had not put the speakers back in yet, so I get 4 of the 8 speakers installed and put the fuse back in...drive it for two days and it started real slow this morning...check it at work and the alt. to the battery wire is melted at the alt. (2nd time this has happened) not sure how this happened cause the radio wire from the battery has a 20amp fuse on it and it's fine...i have the internal alt. 65amp, could it be drawing to many amps?
    I have two 400watt amps....anyone??? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2001
    Posts:
    2,457
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Marcos, Ca USA
    Tony, are you running a heavy guage wire from the battery to the amps or that 25 amp fused radio wire? Your two 400 watt amps at 4 ohms could over achieve your 65 amp alternator all by themselves at full power (assuming your using every bit of them). If those amps are bridged and running at 2 ohms, you could very well be pushing that threshold at 1/2 power. This could also prevent the battery from charging fully. This all assumes your not running on them on that 25 amp fused power wire. You may also have too small of a wire running from the alternator to the battery (its a one wire kit with the old external regulator bypassed, right?) If you didnt properly bypass the stock external regulator, you may be overcharging the system and causing that wire to melt(let me know becuase I can throw you a schematic on how to do that). Check for 14v at the battery when running. Also, check your grounds and make sure your they run from the engine to the chassis and the battery. Last, are you sure everything is related and the headers arent heating up the alternator wire right there?
     
  3. BobK

    BobK 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2000
    Posts:
    1,604
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,
    How many amps is the alt.?Did you upgrade to a higher amp one?If so are you still useing the stock wireing.Stock wireing is good for about 40-50 amps.If you've gone bigger it may be more than the wireing can handle.
    If it's a higher amp alt.with the amps,lights,heater,etc. are on the volatge reg . may be sensing a large amp draw and telling the new alt to put out more amps...maybe more than the wireing is able to accept.

    Just a thought. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  4. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2002
    Posts:
    2,116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    so cal
    Mike, the wire running from the alternator to the battery looks to be 10 or 12 gage (in melts right at the fitting on the alt.)
    the regulator is bypassed and I've checked the charge and it's fine, right at 13.8 to 14V...
    the headers a far enough away and this happened two times before the headers were installed... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. BobK

    BobK 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2000
    Posts:
    1,604
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,
    The current load or amps will do the damage,not volts.Something is overheating the wire.About the only thing that will do that is a high current flow or amp draw.
     
  6. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2002
    Posts:
    2,116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    so cal
    well now the alternator is bad so I need a new one...I want to put in a high amp one, anyone have a part number
    ? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
    then I will add the 8 gage wire and check the current ... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. uglychevyZZ4

    uglychevyZZ4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2002
    Posts:
    6,094
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Black Diamond, Wa
    well, here is an Autolite HO Pro 120amp and has been good for me, it is a external reg though, but they can also look up one for a internal, the external is 7194-6-3 and i prefer it since it it costs less to replace them without the int regulator /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif if you need that pn# lemmie know /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    Rob
     
  8. BobK

    BobK 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2000
    Posts:
    1,604
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,
    I got a Summit brand 1 wire,140 amp alt.about 2 years ago and I've had no trouble with mine.
    Part # SUM-G1669.It list's now for $169.99.
    The thing is PowerMaster makes it.Power Master's price is $199.95
    It's a one wire but it has a dual votage reg.That means it will work as a one wire or a 3 wire.To make it a 3 wire you just remove a rubber plug that plugs the #1 and #2 terminals.
    Click here to see it.
     
  9. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2002
    Posts:
    2,116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    so cal
    just got back from pep boys (thats where I got the old one with life time warr) with a 95amp. unit, ran it with the radio and all lights on and it was doing 13V at idle...but the alternator it self felt hot, couldn't hold my hand on it??? but the wire on the back was fine... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    then on the way back from picking my son up a H2 tries to snake me from a turn only right lane, I let him get the jump then punched the K5 and ran him into the curb...well made him see the curb so he slowed and watched me take off/forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  10. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,857
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Long Beach, CA.
    You sir are a rebel
     
  11. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2001
    Posts:
    15,683
    Likes Received:
    1,392
    Location:
    642 Days to BB2018
    Tony,

    Kind of a "postscript" to this thread, since it sounds like you solved your problem..... but


    For the stereo stuff, It would probably be a decent idea to double check the entire wiring path to make sure all of the power AND ground wires are properly sized.

    Most people focus on the POWER side of the equation and use nice BEEFY wires into the amps, maybe they think it through a little more and use a beefy ground to the frame too. Usually, the electrical "path" back to the negative side of the battery ends up going through some tiny factory wire. That becomes the "choke point" and limits how much current you can really draw with your system.

    Same is true for the alternator charging wire. If the stereo used the "beefy" stuff, you should make sure that the alternator has an equally fair chance of keeping that battery charged. Use the same gauge wire that you select for the amp wiring, and you will help to remove electrical bottlenecks.....


    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

Share This Page