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amp power

Discussion in 'Audio' started by spac30dyss3y, Sep 2, 2003.

  1. spac30dyss3y

    spac30dyss3y Registered Member

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    the sub i'd like to get has 6 ohm dvc and an rms of about 250 watts 450 max. the amp im thinking about getting has a 350 rating at 4 ohms, 600 rating at 2, and 850 at 1. How do i lower the rms output on the amp to match the sub's rms so i don't blow the sub out? Do i just adjust the gain, or what exactly?
     
  2. 89BlazerK5

    89BlazerK5 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    the sub i'd like to get has 6 ohm dvc and an rms of about 250 watts 450 max. the amp im thinking about getting has a 350 rating at 4 ohms, 600 rating at 2, and 850 at 1. How do i lower the rms output on the amp to match the sub's rms so i don't blow the sub out? Do i just adjust the gain, or what exactly?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    since you do have a DVC sub, you have options. hmmmmm. i haven't heard of a 6ohm dvc sub. what sub and what amp are you talking about??

    if you wire a DVC sub up in Series, you double the impediance..... and if you hook it up in parallel, the impediance is half of the 2 coils. that amp sounds like it's too powerful for that sub.
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Rule #1.......


    Stop getting so worked up over WATTS. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif


    This is not as critical as you are making it sound. Clean amplifier power never blew up a speaker (OK, almost never /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)...but the point is that speakers can handle a LOT of clean power, a lot better than they can handle even small amounts of distorted "square wave" (ie "clipped") voltage input.

    Second, I'd like to point out that "real" music is not going to EVER produce peak RMS wattage on your subs.....bass, like most music is all about "transients".....we are not talking about listening to test tones here. So you're concerns about overpowering the speaker are somewhat artificial.....

    Lastly, If the amp you are considering is rated at 350W @ 4 ohms and you are plugging it into a 6 ohm speaker...the output will be LESS than 350 Watts into that load. So regardless of everything else I've said up to this point, the bottom line is that the amps real output in the setup you described would probably be identical (or close to it) to the speakers RMS rating.




    ps. I run a 200W amplifier channel into each of my tweeters.... and 200W to each of my mids..... my speakers don't "blow up" either. Remember, music is transient....not RMS!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. spac30dyss3y

    spac30dyss3y Registered Member

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    It's an alumapro alusonic 12". And the amp is a Planet Audio P850D. So, Greg, I should be able to wire the sub as a 3ohm load or some other way?
     
  5. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Spac3,


    I don't know the details on those components, so I can't give you a definitive answer....

    If the sub is setup with dual 6 ohm voicecoils, then you could wire them in parallel to create a 3 ohm load. Remember, speakers loads change with frequency....so that 3 ohm (or whatever it ends up being) will get both higher and lower than that depending on what's actually playing through it.....

    The amp would need to handle that load (3 ohms). That's not a particularly tough load....so the amp should run cool and clean. When you start playing games to get a low-ohm setup....you typically make the amp run a lot hotter, and you also tend to increase distortion (which equals BAD!)


    If you think about it, a low ohm load (1/2 ohm or 1 ohm) isn't too different from a short-circuit! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     
  6. aj_tatted

    aj_tatted 1/2 ton status

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    hey i run 3 alumapro 12's in my truck with 1000 watts, no prob. my neihbors love it!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif good choice!!
     

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