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Amp Wiring Help

Discussion in 'Audio' started by 87BrnRsd, Feb 15, 2004.

  1. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, let me start off by saying that I am not a professional at hooking up systems. So, I am having a little difficulty with mine. I have a sony xplode cd player, and my system consists of 2 alpine type r 12" subs, and the amp is a soundstream tarantula 700/2. I have everything wired in, but the subs arent working. Basically here is what my problem is. I cut the system control wire that comes from the back of the cd player into a wiring harness, and spliced the system control for the amp into it. Here is the weird part. The power light on the amp comes on when the cd player is set to an fm station. The light comes on, but the subs dont hit. If I turn the cd player to cd mode, the power light on the amp turns off, and no power goes to it. I figure that something is messed up with the system control wire, since the subs arent working, and the power to the amp turns off when I try to play cd's only, but I dont know what exactly is wrong. Can anyone help me? Thanks.
    -Harrison
     
  2. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Ok, let me start off by saying that I am not a professional at hooking up systems. So, I am having a little difficulty with mine. I have a sony xplode cd player, and my system consists of 2 alpine type r 12" subs, and the amp is a soundstream tarantula 700/2. I have everything wired in, but the subs arent working. Basically here is what my problem is. I cut the system control wire that comes from the back of the cd player into a wiring harness, and spliced the system control for the amp into it. Here is the weird part. The power light on the amp comes on when the cd player is set to an fm station. The light comes on, but the subs dont hit. If I turn the cd player to cd mode, the power light on the amp turns off, and no power goes to it. I figure that something is messed up with the system control wire, since the subs arent working, and the power to the amp turns off when I try to play cd's only, but I dont know what exactly is wrong. Can anyone help me? Thanks.
    -Harrison

    [/ QUOTE ] Sounds like a nightmare. In all honesty, you might be better off starting from scratch and running all new wires. That's probley what I would do.
     
  3. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Not necessarily. All I have to do is just take the system control wire that I spliced into the harness, out, then connect the two ends of the old system control back together, and it would be like I never touched the wires under the dash. I think I just didnt splice into the system control from the cd player correctly. The only problem is, is that I dont have enough money to take it to a car audio shop and let them hook up the system control wire. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
    -Harrison
     
  4. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    The secret is in your term "system control" wire....

    I have NO idea what you mean when you say that....my guess is that you are splicing into something you should NOT be. What you want to connect the amp to is called a "REMOTE TURN ON" lead. It provides a +12V trigger to other stereo components to tell them to turn on, when the deck is powered up.

    The fact that switching sources on the deck makes your amp turn on and off, means that whatever you are splicing into is not the correct wire for this application.

    At the very least, run a constant 12V from somewhere to the amps "remote turn on" input, to verify that the amp is working correctly. You should have bass with that setup. From there, you have isolated the problem down and know that it's the "trigger" that's causing the weird behavior and not the amp itself.



    /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  5. santana

    santana 1/2 ton status

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    I assume your stereo is hooked up to the ignition and if it is I would run the remote wire to the amp from an accessory on the fuse panel pref where your stereo hot is not the memory but the main hot wire-usually red. You can go on to isolating the sound out to the subs after you have the power issue out of the way.. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Where is another place that you would recommend hooking up the wire for 12 volts to check the amp?
    -Harrison
     
  7. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Where is another place that you would recommend hooking up the wire for 12 volts to check the amp?
    -Harrison

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Pretty much anything "hot" off the fuseblock is fair game for this experiment. You could also just run an extra wire from the "red" or "yellow" wires off the back of the current deck (one is constant 12V, and the other is "key on" power) . The main thing is to validate that the amp comes on (and stays on) and produces bass when it gets a steady 12V turn on signal.

    After that, you just need to find the "real" triggering lead off the back of the deck to connect to the amp.


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  8. trikstark5

    trikstark5 1/2 ton status

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    I think you just have the remote wire to turn the amp on hooked up to the wire. The wire you should be using is a blue/white wire in the stereo harness. It will have a tag on it saying something like 12V Accessory or power antenna lead. Hook the remote from the amp to this lead and it should work out find for you. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  9. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    I thought that I needed to hook into the solid blue wire. I asked someone at a car audio shop, and he said not to use the blue and white wire (it is actually blue with a white stripe on it), but to hook into the solid blue wire. Since that didnt work, your advice about hooking into the blue wire with the white stripe sounds pretty good. I havent had time to work on it anymore this week, but I am going to try to get around to it tomorrow. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks for all of your help guys. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    -Harrison
     
  10. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Alright, I had about an hour and a half before work yesterday to work on it, and I finally got them working. I hooked the remote turn on wire into the blue wire with the white stripe, and that fixed the problem of the amp turning off with a cd in, but I still didnt have any bass. So, I took the subs out of the box, and saw that the positive lead comming from the amp had come out of the sub when I put the subs in the box. I hooked it up, and everything works fine now. /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif Anyways, I am beginning to think that the soundstream tarantula 700/2 amp may have been a little overkill. The subs get plenty, plenty loud, and rattle the body panels with the gain maybe 1/10th of the way up. But then again, I can always turn the bass down. Thanks a lot.
    -Harrison
     
  11. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Glad to hear it all worked out....

    Generally I solder on the connections inside the sub cabinets to avoid the problem you mentioned....with so much vibration, it's just asking for trouble to use "push on" style connectors.

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  12. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Actually, I soldered every connection I could. But, the only ones I could solder were the connections to the back of the box. My subs have the style connections where you push down on a spring loaded cylindrical piece until the holes line up, then insert the wire and let off, and the spring pushes up hard enough to hold the wires pretty good. I actually like that design because it is easy to use. The only reason the wire came unhooked was because I cut the wire a little too short, and had the sub a little too far out of the box when I was working on it. It works now anyways.
    BTW Does anyone know how to make the silver trim piece across the back of the tailgate stop rattling? It sounds like crap outside the truck. Thanks.
    -Harrison
     
  13. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    HAHAHAHAHAHA

    Rattles are annoying! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif


    The basic secret to making things stop buzzing and rattling is to give them more "mass". The typical way that's done is by applying a dynamat-type material (small in size, but very dense and heavy) to anything that rattles. For that trim strip, if there's a way to remove it (access panel from the inside?) I'd get it off there, and clean it up really well on the back, then apply as much dynamat stuff as you can while still allowing it to fit back on.

    Same rule applies for license plates, and frames.


    Remember, and body panel that is vibrating (especially if you can hear it from the outside) is stealing sound pressure that could be giving you MORE sound inside the vehicle. Plus it reduces the "noise floor" that the system needs to overpower, so the system sounds more enjoyable even at lower volumes.


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  14. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Same rule applies for license plates, and frames.

    [/ QUOTE ] I like to cut out a chunk of a old junk tire (Sidewall) to mount between the license plate and the bumper. Works pretty good in my honest opinion. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  15. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the suggestions. Those are great ideas!
    -Harrison
     

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