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another 1 ton question....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by **DONOTDELETE**, Apr 5, 2001.

    a while back, when i found out that i had a chowed axleshaft on my 12 bolt, i inquired about getting another. well all you guys had to say was 'go with a 14 bolt'....... so i did!!! anyway, how much of a difference in spacing widthwise are the springpads? since i will be running about 5" of lift... is there anyone who has changed their pinion angle when they moved the spring pads? or does this throw off the u-joint? someone gimme the breakdown! besides the plasma cutter that i don't have, whats the next best way to take the springpads off the tubes?

    thanks!
    greg

    PS i interact with two other message forums, rec.sport.jetski and tacoma owners assoc........ this message list blows them outta the water... CK5 (!haha!) is chock-fulla the nicest and information-divulgenest folks on the net! thanks again!
     
  1. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    I converted the 1 ton 14bolt to work on a 1/2 truck. I used the grinder method to take off the spring perches. I would like to say, that that was the worst time I've had. The grinding technique too forever....that was until tRusty suggested I use a thinner cutting wheel to cut into the perches after I grinded all the weld down. If you're careful, you can reused the perches...if not, then you'll have to buy new ones. I reused mine. For the shock mounts...I just used a cutting torch (oxy-acety) and cut them off. I welded on different shock mounts b/c I'm doing the extended shock mounts. The perches need to be like 42 1/2" apart from eye to eye. Do this.. take off off the drums and the backing plate. take a measuring tape and put the metal piece from the outside of the flange to and measure 5" in. that should be where the perch should lie (the outer edge of the perch, not the eye). Do the same for the other side. Am I making sense?? Let me know if I'm not.
    But just tack weld them in place first. Wait till you have the axle under the truck and have everything lined up, and then weld them in. the drive shaft angle can't be more than 3 degrees on each side, you with your 5" lift, you can rotate the axle accordingly instead of using shims. Since the perches will be moved anyhow. Good luck...I have pics,but need to find em right now..if you need them, let me know.
    Boss

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.boss.coloradok5.com>http://www.boss.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  2. doonjumper

    doonjumper 1/2 ton status

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    I did mine the same way except I did not weld the perches on until after I bolted everything up. This worked out fine also. Plus there was no way to weld them in the wrong spot cause everything was already bolted up.
     
  3. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    So is moving the spring perches better than shims or am I getting the wrong idea? I am going to be putting in an 8" lift with the 4" shackle flip in the rear. I will also be installing my 14 bolt at the same time. Should I also be thinking about moving the spring perches, if so how much do I move them??
     
  4. doonjumper

    doonjumper 1/2 ton status

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    Ideally you want your perches angled. This eliminates the need for degree shimes. If you have a 14 bolt out of a 1 ton then no prob cause you have to move the perches anyway. If your 14 bolt is out of a 3/4 ton then the perches are in the same place as your existing perches. It's up to u if u want to spend the extra time in moving your perches if you have a 3/4 ton 14 bolt. The new perches run about $20 for 2 1/2" perches. I'm not sure exactly what degree is needed. I just eyeballed it and left the pinion yoke with a slight drop so when I take off it raises up in-line with the driveline cause of the torque. I don't know if I explained this to well but thats what I did, and I don't eat up u-joints.
     
  5. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Well, to figure out the proper angle you need, you'll need an angle finder. With the axle under the truck and the perches not welded (or the tack weld grinded off), put the drive shaft on the axle. Now measure the degree of the angle on the top part of the drive shaft at the Tcase. write down the degree. Now measure the angle on the bottom part of the dshaft at the axle. write down the degree. Make sure they're both with in 3 degrees and you'll be fine. If not, adjust the axle housing accordingly with a floor jack or something. Once you got it perfect...weld the perches in place and you're set.
    Doonjumper...you must've got lucky [​IMG] Wish I had them skills.
    Boss

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.boss.coloradok5.com>http://www.boss.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  6. doonjumper

    doonjumper 1/2 ton status

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    Your not kidd'n!I[​IMG]If I had known that there was that much involved at the time I would have paid someone to set mine up.
     
  7. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Here are some pics I found....

    Removing the shock mounts
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Removing Perches...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Doonjumper...you're right man...I'm not sure if I would do this all over again if I had to. [​IMG]
    Boss

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.boss.coloradok5.com>http://www.boss.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  8. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Forgive me I am learning as I go. I have a 14bff, does this mean it is off of a 1 ton. If not how do I tell. I was not aware of having to move the spring perches.
     
  9. doonjumper

    doonjumper 1/2 ton status

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    No this does not neccasarily mean thats it's out of a 1 ton 14 bolt. All you have to do is get under your truck and measure from perch center to perch center and if it maches the 14 bolt then its good to go. If not then you have to move your perches. My 14 bolt measured @ somthing like 40 inches and my 73 measured @ like 42.5. I can't remember but they were 2.5 inches off.
     

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