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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by francis, Jan 4, 2006.
do dodge d60's interchange with chevys? the diff is on the same side
They have a different spring pad width and crappy external hubs.
hmm thats odd.. my dodge 60 has internal hubs...
the spring pads are 1/2 inch wider, you can find some bushing to offset your springs... I just made my own steel spacers, to move my springs out 1/4 inch on eachside.. Just go crossover steering right off the bat... you may as well.
uhmm... youll need to get a new pinion yoke.. and i cant remember about the brake lines.. but yes you can use the axle..
No they are not a direct bolt in.
Everything from the king pins out will interchange also so if you want to run chevy brakes or hubs (to replace the external hubs that are common on Dodge axles) you can. If the price is right I would not pass up a Dodge 60 just for being a Dodge thats for sure.
Most but not all have the external hubs. 75-89/90 do, but the 89/90-93 have the exact same hubs as GM D60's. 94 and newer have 32 spline inners, CAD, unit bearings, balljoints, and driver's drop.
Also, Dodge D60's are 2" narrower than GM D60's
I have a '78 Dodge D60 with external drive flanges.
Everyone says they suck, but I don't understand why. I guess thats why when I try to find DRW hubs for it everyone tries to charge me $150
I believe they are quite a bit weaker.
I've got a dodge D60 (out of a '93 w/ a CTD) under my truck now. since the WMS is narrower it lines up nicely with the 14bFF - actually looks like the front/rear track widths match. unless you go with crossover steering the you'll need to change the steering arm to a chevy one. also just heat up the shock mount and twist/bend it over and your shocks will bolt right up.
How? I am just curious, not to be a dick or anything.
My drive flanges bolt on with 8 bolts; internals are held in with splines.
Aren't rear FF axleshafts held on with 8 bolts
The 8 bolts aren't the weak point. The weak point is with the way the piece that engages the shaft and the lockout itself. Upon looking into it more, it seems the external lockouts are the ones everyone says are crappy. I'm sure the external lockouts are strong (except you have to get them broached to 35 spline if you want that).
A dodge 60 is a direct bolt in depending on the year, this one is out of a 80 and worked fine. A couple things, I put in 52s when I did the axle swap, the thing lined up and I bolted in, the difference in pirch width is nothing to worry about. The brakes are differnt in that dodge used one line from the truck to the axle then it split and ran to the calipers, all I did was pull off the dodge lines and ran my chev lines right to the calipers, not a big deal at. You can swap out the caliper brakets, calipers and hubs to all chev and it bolts right up and works fine. The dodge calipers are differnt than chev, alot of people will tell you that they are same but the dodge pistons will not open as far as a chev piston will, reason is dodge used a thinner rotor, also tha banjo bolts are differnt, I forget which one is 10mm and 7/16th but whatever a 10 bolt and chev 60 have the dodge is diiferent. A great thing about the dodge is that it is 2-3 inches norrower than a chev axle, this means it will match a 14ff without the spacers, something I love because its easy to get around with the track width as small as possible. Other differences, the studs on the pumpkin are smaller than a chev, the wheel studs are smaller unless you swap them out to chev rotors (which is a PITA) and a few other things that caint think of right now. Oh yea and the tie rod is higher too
My Dodge D60 was a bolt in affair. I didn't worry about the perch width differences, my springs are splayed 1/2" on each side, no big deal. I changed out the wheel studs to match the ford d70 rear, which is 9/16-18, the same as a FF 14B, I think. I got the p/n from the D60 bible on pirate. You'll need to get a chevy steering arm unless you go crossover right away. I removed the single brake line all the way to each caliper, then I just used longer hoses, and those bolted up right to the caliper.
What makes an external hub or lockout weaker than a internal is their tendancy to loosen. The studs or bolts that hold on the hub or lockout back out and then the hub breaks easily. An easy upgrade to studs with locknuts helps. The other issue is that the external flanges are easier to damage in the rocks than an internal drive flange, but you would have to work hard to really brake it.
I don't think you could damage one of these drive flanges. They are like 1/4" thick. I could see the little dust cover over the snap ring coming off easy, but I think I have already found a way around that.
I am going to run DRW outers and H1's anyway, so I don't think I will be snagging them too much.
That is a good idea about the studs tho, and one that i hadn't thought of. thanks!
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