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Another rear suspension question (pic added)

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 88K5Jimmy, Jul 30, 2003.

  1. 88K5Jimmy

    88K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    As you can see from the pic, I have saggy butt...again. [​IMG]
    My suspension consists of 6" BDS springs in the front w/ORD shackles and stock 52" springs in the rear w/ ORD zero rates and an Echobit flip. I don't really want to put more add-a-leafs in because I don't want it to ride any stiffer. So, here are my options:

    1. Longer shackles in the rear (I think they would have to be pretty long = unstable suspension/body roll)
    2. New rear lift springs
    3. Stock 56" springs I have in the storage building (thicker spring pack, haven't got a straight answer if that is a worthwhile swap or not)
    4. Your opinions?

    Thanks guys
     
  2. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Looks pretty level to me /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
    If you already have the flips and zero rates, probably need new springs if yo want to level it right.

    Guess im a little different, dont mind a "little" sag in the butt
     
  3. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    what shackles are in the rea?
    I would use some longer then stock, wont hurt much IMO
     
  4. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Just take the top off.
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    First off let me explain Saggy butt.
    Your truck sits dead level from what I can tell from the picture. Dead level is from the rocker to the ground. These trucks are foot ball shaped. Taller and wider in the middle then they are at the ends.

    What options you have is to replace the ORD Zero rate with a 2 inch block.

    Option 2 would be to take that secons set of spings and add a leafe or two. This is what I did and one long leaf and one short leaf is about 2.5 inches. Be carefull when you chose a leafe to add. you don't want the pads on the leafes to run over the ends and you don't want the pad below rubbing on the nub that holds the pad in place. The leafes I added were from a older pack and didn't have the pads on the end.
    I can guarrantee your rough ride is coming from the front pack and not the rear. The extra leafs will make the rear pack more stiff BUT right now it's softer then it was stock because of the shackle flip.
     
  6. 88K5Jimmy

    88K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    In this pic it does look level, but if you follow the body line and moulding it does dip to the rear. It especially looks like it is sagging if the pavement is inclined just a little bit.
     
  7. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Between the top, swing out spare tire carrier and rear bumper I can see why your sitting a tad low (1/2" or so). For the most part the rockers do look level. How often do you run with the top off? I think your options are as follows:

    Inspect the stock rear springs for cracks at the center pin (common area of fatigue).

    Try the other 56" pack on one side and see if it makes a difference- it doesn't cost anything but a little labor. You could also do Grim suggested and mix some of the leafs from both packs.

    A 6" long shackle is an option but it will only give you 1" of lift at the axle... with the top off it may end up sitting too high with a complete inch, a 5" shackle may be all you need.

    I'd suggest 57's if your going to swap in new springs since all you'd need is a 6" shackle but the large amount of weight on the rear would also require some stiffer shocks to control it.
     
  8. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I don't really want to put more add-a-leafs in because I don't want it to ride any stiffer.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    Could remove a leaf from the front springs....

    Marv
     
  9. 88K5Jimmy

    88K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    I dont ever take the top off. If I didn't want to change the suspension at all I guess I could get a soft top. What kind of extra body flex do you get with a soft top? I'm just really concerned about a soft top leaking and getting it broke into because it is my daily driver.
     
  10. 88GLAZER

    88GLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    If you are going to get a soft top shell uot the extra cash for a can back. I have the specilty top (fast track), it leaks at the seams, where the window meets the the top andif any water gets near the zipper rest asure it will find its way in.
     
  11. rigdonhome

    rigdonhome 1/2 ton status

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    I also noticed on my K5 that the top of the rear fender well sits at least an inch lower than the top of the front fender well. This makes it look like the rear of the truck is sagging a bit, even though as some here have mentioned the rockers seem to sit level. GM did this with many vehicles, not sure why. Anyways, I lifted the rear of mine so that the fender gap is the same front and rear, which actually makes the rear sit high with the truck empty. I generally have 10,000 pounds of tools in the back of it anyway, and add a fairly heavy trailer on the back and it sits just about perfect. Since I drive it loaded with the trailer on it most of the time, it works out nice.

    Sal
     
  12. MOABDADC22

    MOABDADC22 1/2 ton status

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    This is a saggy butt. (4" springs in front w/nothing in the rear) /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif [​IMG]

    Seriously, I think your Blazer sits level.
     
  13. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I think I agree with Marv, remove one leaf from the front springs, you might get more flexibility in the front anyway. Whats going on with the coil front suspension you are thinking about? Now you got me thinkin... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  14. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    This is a saggy butt. (4" springs in front w/nothing in the rear) /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif [​IMG]

    Seriously, I think your Blazer sits level.

    [/ QUOTE ]


    Look..it's 'sandman' before ck5!
     
  15. 88K5Jimmy

    88K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I think I agree with Marv, remove one leaf from the front springs, you might get more flexibility in the front anyway. Whats going on with the coil front suspension you are thinking about? Now you got me thinkin... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Well due to the fact that the front end rides like a brick /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif I was thinking of alternative ways to make the ride better in the front. Since the K5 is still my daily driver I would need something that has highway manners but still on a budget. That's where the swapping to coils from a Bronco or Heep came into play. However, I have found several things out since I have done some research. I wanted to keep the stock front steering because I haven't felt the need to do crossover just yet. After talking with ORD about this, they said that it could be done with the stock front steering but it wouldn't be very feasible offroad especially with the extra flex a coil frontend gives you. Therefore I would need to go crossover and then maybe a 3-link type setup using stock Bronco or Heep coils or some sort of lift coils from the same vehicles. Placement of the coils would be the next challenge. My idea was to eliminate the front bumpstop backet and then fab a coil bucket there and then fabricate a bracket onto the axle tube. ORD also confirmed my idea and said that was exactly waht they had contemplated before. Then just fab up some link bars and be done with it.

    Hmmm, it would be a neat write-up and experience but I don't see the need for the extra cost crossover at the time, unless I could get the hook-up some how /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    I am going to try to remove the little overload spring at the bottom of my spirng pack and see how that affects the ride and ride height.
     
  16. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    You could always just go with a simple set of Tuff Country springs, or have ORD design and build you a set.

    You already have a sway bar right? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  17. 88K5Jimmy

    88K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    You could always just go with a simple set of Tuff Country springs, or have ORD design and build you a set.

    You already have a sway bar right? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I was thinking custom springs if tinkering with my current setup doesn't work out. What are the Tuff Country's like? Yes I still have the swaybar. I feel that is necessity on a daily driver.

    I just can't seem to get the idea of coils outta my head /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  18. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Is your swaybar binding up front? I think you can take it off and throw it away. I havent had one for years! Granted I dont drive mine every day, but I wouldnt have a problem driving it down a curvy road like a Corvette - even with 40's! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    Seriously, disconnect the swaybar and take it for a drive - you'll come over to the dark side! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  19. 88K5Jimmy

    88K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    HAHA

    I guess I could put my cool ORD disconnects to use and see what that does for me.
     
  20. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    HAHA

    I guess I could put my cool ORD disconnects to use and see what that does for me.

    [/ QUOTE ]



    My point about the swaybar is that if you get a soft spring up front, you will be happy to have a swaybar up there for street driving.

    I had to retrofit one to my 1stGen (they never came with one) once the ORD springs were installed.... just too much travel and bumpsteer without one, but actually quite NICE with one installed. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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