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Anti-wrap bars *ATTN Borregok5*

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by balzackks84, Jun 17, 2003.

  1. balzackks84

    balzackks84 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    So I am going to run a couple links from my frame to my axle. How do I figure out how long to make the links as to not bind when flexing? TIA.

    BTW I've already spent about 30 minutes searchign and reading through Pirates archives and my head is about to explode because of too much information. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  2. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Your going to be in a rock and hard place on this one, there are no easy answers. If you want to keep from limiting flex and have no other motive than to control axle wrap then run a single ladder bar from the center or as close to the center as possible which is firmly affixed to the axle and shackled down to a cross member or side frame mount at the frame end. Make it no less than 40" which places the shackle in close proximity to being the same length of a Blazer driveshaft and helps to limit anti-squat. Short than 40" and your going to really ad lift when accelerating. Now if your dead set on running a single bar, then run it from the bottom of the axle forward under the spring and to the frame but keep in mind there is a lot of leverage happending here and the frame places the bolts in a shear position so welding it is recommended. Again no less than 40" but do not run a second bar on the other side or they will conflict with each other under articulation and you'll loose flex. Last, if your running rear lift springs that have a heavy arch, you can run a single bar from the spring plate forward on top of the spring. Generally this is not advisable becuase it could actualy promote wrap, but you'll find that is only when using a flat/soft spring and not for example a 6" rear lift spring. If you need any more info, I'd be more than happy to help.

    A few ideas on the ladder bar which I'm buidling for myself, might help you too:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. balzackks84

    balzackks84 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I'm running the 57" springs. I really just want to limit the axle wrap and nothing else for now. I was planning on running two single bars on either side of the axle to the frame and am not too worried about lossing a little bit of flex as of now.

    The thought had run across my mind to do something like what your doing but building it more like the jeeps run it so its not mounted to the front and back of the diffy.

    On your CAD drawing shouldn't your shackle and top bar be mounted at a 90*? Or no because your mounted to both the front and back of the diffy?

    As I understand it I can do it as long as my links are no shorter than 40". That will give me a good starting point.
     
  4. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    When you attatch single bars to only one side(top or bottom), you can not use a shackle at all or you would defeat the purpose which is where many of the conflicts begin. The axle wants to follow the arc of travel of the spring since it is what locates the axle. The short 26" effective front link of a stock GM or 57" spring swap is the biggest killer because with very little acrticulation the effective links arc tries to point the pinion up on the drooped wheel and down on the stuffed wheel. The springs are able to deform when one side is stuffed and the other side is drooped so they split the difference. If you attach a bar to both sides which is fixed at both ends to the frame and axle, you define an arc which the axle must follow. The longer links are less demanding on the pinion angle but harder to place unless inside the frame rails.

    As for the ladder bar, attaching to the top and bottom and running forward causes the bar to try and rotate up and down at the cross member. I made both my bars adjustable so it could accomodate different pinion angles. While its the most effective, I still prefer to locate the axle with wrap control so I may still run a V bar... can't make up my mind
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Those look a lot like the A-tron bar...which does work very well. I figure the springs are already locating the axle, so why bother. Axle wrap elimination and no loss of flex is a lofty goal, but it can be done.

    Rene
     
  6. balzackks84

    balzackks84 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I think I have decided to steal the idea from the Jeep guys. Run links to the top and bottom of the axle tube, make a crossmember and run a shackle mount that way. After reading your response about running the links on both sides I decided it wasn't worth it.

    So now I've got 4 heim joints, about 7 feet of tubing, plate, and some 3x1 rectangular shyt. I think I can get this to work. PICS TO COME.
     
  7. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Cant wait to see it!
     
  8. balzackks84

    balzackks84 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    One more question /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif. I'm almost to the point of throwing it all together but am kinda stuck on mounting to the axle tube. Can I mount the ears at an angle, or should they be completely verticle. I would like to get my lower as high as possible so as not to have the chance of slamming my bar into rocks.
     
  9. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Yes you can, but just make sure to gusset it to add strength to the mount where you took it away cause of the angle. Ideally you would want the mount to be on the same axis as the axles degree of rotation.

    Since you are putting it at an angle, it could cause the mount to want to fold on the axletube, which is why I say gusset it vertically.
     
  10. balzackks84

    balzackks84 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Cool. But I can't really gusset because I am using 3.5x.25 flat bar so my fish mouth for mounting runs almust halfway up my axle tube. I think it would [naughty word] up the tube before these flanges bend.

    If your looking down the axle tube, the axle tube being the z-axis, pinion yoke as x-axis, so I would mount the tabs on the y-axis. Or am I completely off base with what you are saying?


    OH! OK. I didn't mean like protruding in the z-axis but rather at say a -60* in the x-y plane. (best I can describe it /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)
     

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