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Antiwrap bar idea and help

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sandawgk5, Oct 17, 2006.

  1. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    I am thinking of making my anti-wrap bar by using the spherical bearings from a category I top link from a 3 point hitch. The ends have a 3/4" hole in the bearing and the male thread is 1-1/8" NC. How would you attach these ends to tubing? Should I just cut the toplink in half and weld the pieces to the tubing?

    Any ideas are appreciated. Oh I can get toplinks for about $20 a piece.

    Thanks

    Ira
     
  2. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit 1/2 ton status

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  3. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    That is what I was looking for but I could not find that for some reason. I am just curious if the body for the top link will be strong enough. Should I just sleave it with the tubing? The ones I am looking at have forged center sections so they should be pretty strong I would think. Pirate is not coming up for me right now for some reason so I will have to check later.

    Ira
     
  4. surpip

    surpip 1 ton status

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    yep pirate brokey for me to
     
  5. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit 1/2 ton status

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    Pirate is working for me at this point. As for strength, I have no idea. I'm a total noob on fab stuff.
     
  6. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    im in desperate need of antiwrap system as well. the truck will be down for a while, so i've got some time to watch you make urs :)
     
  7. uberbeans

    uberbeans 1/2 ton status

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    Call me noob but isn't that the same thing as a ladder bar/traction bar that is used in drag racing? If so wouldn't it be better to buy a ladder bar set up and then modify it for your needs?
     
  8. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    If I had a money tree I could shake then ya I would buy something a fab shop built and make it work. What I am doing is cheaper and it has LARGE spherical bearings at all 3 mounting locations. I will be using Kerts antiwrap bracket that he sells with this as it also has 3/4" holes for the securing of the bar. It is sortof the same as a ladder bar but this system does not bind when articulated.

    Ira
     
  9. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    It will bind for sure w/o a shackle on the front end of the bar unless you manage to exactly hit the magic sweet spot with the front pivot point. As to whether it will bind with a shackle, that's being discussed here.
    I believe that it does, but not a lot. Of more concern to me is the loads put on all of the parts.
     
  10. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    make sure to run that lower link longer. otherwise it's gonna bend right at that joint. My buddy has bent two in his sammy.
     
  11. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    Ya I assumed everyone would know a shackle would be on the front. I was looking at that thread and to tell you the truth it is really confusing on my brain. The amount of bind I would see would possibly be negligable but the only way to find out if it works is to just do it.

    Ira
     
  12. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    My intention is to make it like a triangle where the two "arms" attach almost at the forward joint that attaches to the shackle.

    Ira
     
  13. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    I had an idea of making it to seperate arms that are off set on the axle and mount side by side on the same forward mount. that way you make three "legs" and you have a trail spare for when you slide off that rock and fold it.
     
  14. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    The question boils down to: is the front end of the a-bar moving up and down, or is it close to the point where the axle hsg's arc of travel has it's center.
    If it's moving up and down as my friend Lars' sketch indicates, then by putting a shackle on that end you are forcing it to pivot when it wants to go up and down. If you force it to pivot then how much bind is there and how much load are you putting on the parts?

    What Lars found was that if he put the frame pivot point (no shackle) in the right spot he could use a single tube with a joint at both ends. Then there is no articulation penalty or excessive loads on the parts trying really hard to break them. In fact, such a thing (bottom of the page) is already made for his rig.
     

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