Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Any tips for taking top off 91 GMC Jimmy?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by n8sjh MI, May 26, 2006.

  1. n8sjh MI

    n8sjh MI Registered Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2005
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Grand Rapids MI
    I have had this 91 GMC Jimmy as a daily driver for a few years. I got a new car to drive everyday and want to take the top off the Jimmy. It has never been off. I have noticed it leaks above my head at the seal in hard rain. Anyways is there anything I should watch out for or be aware of? I want to take it off for the summer and it will get parked in the garage when it rains. I may get a soft top later but will need to reinstall the hard top for winter in Michigan. This may end up being a trail rig in a year or two. Any easy ways of lifting it off as far as pulleys hanging from rafters or should I just get some help to man handle the thing? Thanks Steve
     
  2. K5Greek

    K5Greek 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2005
    Posts:
    2,054
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Vineland, NJ
    tkae off all the bolts. there is one all the way in the back behind that panel in the cargo on the drivers side(i think). this one is not visible so you have to take some of the screws out of that panel to reach it .have one or two people help you.
     
  3. txfiremank5

    txfiremank5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2004
    Posts:
    3,105
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Antonio, TX.
    There are tow bolts behind the panel (one on each side) that are located at the rear. Remove them, and leave them out so that you don't have to deal with them each time you take it off. Also, when you take it off, there are some "pins" that are near the rear end, so you will have to lift up.. not simply slide it back.

    It can be done easly with two people. My wife and I do it all the time. I just let her take the lighter end, (near the cab) and I take the tailgate end which has a little more weight to it.
     
  4. n8sjh MI

    n8sjh MI Registered Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2005
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Grand Rapids MI
    Ok Thanks. I thought I heard before something about bolts that you could not see. When you go to put it back on do you have any problems lining everything back up? Also the seals. I know I need a new one overhead but are their seals down the sides? Are these something you can get from any parts store or are they a LMC kind of part?
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,975
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    Seals are best obtained from GM.

    LMC seals (still) have a few problems, although what I got last time could be made to work, I had to stretch and hold them in place during install.

    I can't recall all of what you can get from GM anymore, but I KNOW you can't get the one that seals the rear window to the top.

    Whatever the GM pieces cost over aftermarket, they are worth it. Seriously, double or triple the cost of aftermarket is still a better deal.

    Get the part numbers from a local dealer parts counter, then take those numbers to gmpartsdirect.com.

    These were still available a year ago or so:

    327005 outer tailgate seal (seals glass to outer part of tailgate)

    15569072 Passenger window seal, inner. Seals window to door panel. (door)
    15569071 Drivers side of above (door)

    326934 Tailgate to body seal. (glued to tailgate)

    357490 Cab to body seal, inner. (one that fits on the steel of the cab)

    14027778 Door to glass seal. This is the one that runs around the perimeter of the glass. Too lazy to check which side is which, it's not obvious from looking at the pieces. (door)
    14027777 Same as above, opposite side. (door)

    I believe the bed rail seals you are asking about were available as well, I just didn't look the part number up for them.

    You'll notice (unless someone pulled it off already) that on the bed rails once the top is removed, there will be a short run of "stuff" angling from the inside to the outside near the cab on either side. These channel any water that gets past the outer cab seal out the sides of the truck, otherwise it comes back in under the side panels and starts rotting it out. I got hold of some butyl rubber strips and cut it to size, put it in place, and dusted it with baby powder on the top so the seal didn't stick to it.
     
  6. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2000
    Posts:
    4,675
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Ohio
    For the '91 you will also need to deal with the following:

    - if you don't already know it, the OEM bolts are tamper-proof Torx and require a special socket (available at NAPA or equivalent)

    - you will need to remove the rear seatbelt where it attaches to the roof, otherwise the seatbelt is attached to both the roof and floor and there is no way to get the top off

    - should be some connectors that need unfastened (wires that control the overhead light on the removeable top).......should be a little access panel located on the driver's side B-pillar area so you can get to it (I think this is right, been several years ago since I had to mess with it).
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,975
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    You are correct, drivers side, little plate with two screws holding it in place.

    Pull cover, fish the wires out, there will be a black connector to undo.
     
  8. BL1TZKRIEG

    BL1TZKRIEG 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2005
    Posts:
    196
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    OREGON
    why did gm use antitamper torx
    did they not want people to remove it ?:confused:
     
  9. n8sjh MI

    n8sjh MI Registered Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2005
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Grand Rapids MI
    I was aware of the tamperproof bolts. I had a T-40 torx bit that had the center out of it but can not find it so I had another regular torx and took it into work and cut a 1/8 inch hole in the wnd in a lathe and used a carbide endmill. So all set with the bit. Thanks for reminding me about the seat belts I forgot about them things. Nobody sits back there besides the dogs.
    I also checked out the panel for the wiring. Sounds like I am good to go. Hey anyone use a soft top in winter? just curious. Just in case I get lazy about putting the top on.
     
  10. chosen(1)

    chosen(1) 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2002
    Posts:
    206
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Michigan
    I can't speak about Blazers specifically since my soft top hasn't come in yet, but my dad and brother both have heeps and there is virtually no difference between the hard and soft tops in the winter. Once my top does come in, the hard top is going bye-bye, never to be installed again.
     
  11. AFUFO

    AFUFO 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2006
    Posts:
    329
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Chesapeake,Virginia
    Mind if i jump in?

    Does anyone know if my 1988 GMC Jimmy has these tamper-proof Torx bolts?
    Thanks :crazy:
     
  12. n8sjh MI

    n8sjh MI Registered Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2005
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Grand Rapids MI
    Well I got my top off last night at 10 p.m. It was not that bad just time consuming. The stupid torx security bolts are a pain to deal with. All but one came out good. The one I busted 2 bits then went to the parts store and busted that one. I ended up just grinding down the head. I then backed up into the garage and strung up 4 ratchet straps from the rafters. I pushed the top up off the pins and put wood under it and attached the straps. Then I just ratcheted each corner a little until top was off. Then pulled out. Now I need to let it sit in the sun and peel off all the tar substance that stuck to it. Thanks guys for the help worked awsome.:wink1:
     
  13. txfiremank5

    txfiremank5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2004
    Posts:
    3,105
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Antonio, TX.
    My 89 does, so there is a good chance it does. You just need a torx with a hole in the end. I didn't have any sockets for it, but did have some of the allen wrench styled ones that have a right angle to them. It's a little more of a pain in the butt, but not too bad. I do plan on taking them to the hardware store and getting some replacements that just use a regular socket, but it's not high on my priority list.
     
  14. AFUFO

    AFUFO 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2006
    Posts:
    329
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Chesapeake,Virginia
    Thanks, Ill probably have to take the jimmy to my uncle to get the bolts off =)
     
  15. Georgia Mike

    Georgia Mike Registered Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2006
    Posts:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NE Georgia
    Probably because the tops had gotten a bad rap for leaking after being removed, and they just couldn't make some people understand that if they just followed the proper bolt tightening sequence outlined in the owner's manual when reinstalling the top, that it wouldn't leak. So, as is usual, dumbasses ruined it for everyone else, and GM just said "OK, don't take it off then!" :mad1:

    That, or they figured that someone with enough smarts to buy, or make, the correct tool to remove the tamper resistant bolts, just may have enough common sense to read directions....:rolleyes:
     

Share This Page