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Any tips on Poly body mount install?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sled_dog, Oct 8, 2003.

  1. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I got a Poly Body mount kit from a member a while ago, I am finally gonna start installing it tomorrow. Need to do this before I install my new carpet so yeah. Anyone have tips or information to help me out? instructions don't show me very well which bushings to use where.
     
  2. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    if installing these involved seperating the body from the mounts a little bit like when u do a bodylift, you might wanna disconnect your steering and tranny linkage, just so they dont get tweaked as you jack the body up.

    j
     
  3. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I've tweaked the tranny mount around before so I'm not worried about that. Steering I need to get off of there anyway since I'm going crossover so I will do that.
     
  4. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    also keep an eye on ground straps, gas filler neck, wiring harness's depending on how high you take the body up. Also keep an eye on ur fan, wouldnt wanna bend that on ur shroud (dont know which would give 1st). also, t-case lever might need to be in N.
     
  5. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Shroud bottom is broken out so no worry there. Whenever the k5 gets flexy it twists and the fan hits the shroud so its clearanced itself over time. Part of the reason I'm puting on poly body mounts.
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The rear mounts are kind of tricky. Unless your tank comes out, they are pretty much impossible to change. Factory "nuts" for the bumper brackets are welded to this , so you've got to remove those bolts as well to pull it. The mount sits "between" two pieces of that bracket, and the poly mounts won't fit in betwen like the stock rubber. May depend on brand though.

    Assuming you've got a kit like mine, it may say throw those brackets out and use the supplied nuts, but they are smoking crack...if you ever need to get those bolts out again (to erplace bumper, whatever) you will ahve to pull the tank to get a wrench on them.

    Just an FYI.
     
  7. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I will probably pull the tank. Put a hole in a it a while ago and just RTVed it shut. Got me through the last 2 weeks before I lost my license now its time to fix it right.
     
  8. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    Maybe put some sort of lube on the bushings? Seems like I've heard that they can be a little squeeky.
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Shouldn't need any, since the mounts shouldn't move, but as flexy as these frames are...

    I didn't put any on mine and I didn't notice any noise FWIW. (cars are the same way) I don't wheel hard either though.
     
  10. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    If it wouldn't squeak on the street I wouldn't care. When your wheeling hard its nice to here the truck but over my headers into 2.5 pipes with crossover and original flowmaster 40s I doubt I'll be hearing much.
     
  11. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    Do one side at a time, don't use anything but a ratchet on the bolts that go into the capture nuts, and be very careful removing them. Loosen the bolts on both sides, then remove the bolts on one side, install the new mounts then install the bolts but don't tighten, then do the other side.
     
  12. Cmoe

    Cmoe 1/2 ton status

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    If you lossen all the bolt on both sides, you should measure body to frame measurements. I had to do this when I did my body swap. And keep a record of where the body sits on the frame so it lines up right again. There is room for the bushings to move around some there. A friend lossened one side at a time. that way he was able to keep the body from shifting out of position. Just my two cents worth......
     

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