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Any Tips on Stick Welding new Spring Perches to a D60rear>>>>>>>

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Burt4x4, Jan 21, 2003.

  1. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Getting ready to weld on some new perches to my rear D60 with my Lincoln 225 AC/DC stick welder.
    SO lets hear it stickwelders.....
    What kind/size of rod should I use? 7018?
    Is preheating needed?(kinda cold outside)
    Should I drain the 90wt?
    "Add forgoten question here"
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Make sure the ground is to the shock mount or the tube somewhere. Keep the ground as close to the area being welded too. The last thing you need is current running through any bearing races/forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif/forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    7018 is a nice rod but generally a PITA to use. It sticks and is hard to re-light. 7014 should be plenty for perches. I'd use a 1/8th rod with the machine you have...run a few practice beads on some scrap to get the heat set and weld her up! You shouldn't need any pre-heat either...

    Rene
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Rock On Rene!
    Will do on the ground! and 7014 1/8th, got it!
    Thanks Bro!

    Anyone have more?????
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Don't weld in shorts and flip flops... /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    Rene
     
  5. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    hahahaha
    Hey I learned all about flash burn the hard way /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif Someday I'll actuall buy some leathers /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. txbluethunder

    txbluethunder 1/2 ton status

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    dunno about 7014 on that but i'd start 7018 at about 90amps and work my way up. 105 to 110 will prob be the sweet spot.
     
  7. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Ok, so that much of a diff between 7014 & 7018 egh?
    I still don't understand the different rod numbers and what they represent???
     
  8. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    If it was high pressure pipe I'd go 7018. the 70 tells us the weldment is 70,000 psi tensile. the third number tells us its an all position rod. Both rods are all position. the last number is the make up of the flux. the 4 represents iron powder added to the flux. Both rods will be more than strong enough...the 7014 will 10 times easier to weld with though.

    Buy a few of each and decide for yourself though.

    Rene
     
  9. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Radical!!
    Thanks!
    I will get both and play around a bit!
    Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  10. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    when you do your test welding, test on a 90' bend so you get the feel of welding two surfaces, the top and side at the same time...
     
  11. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    I was at a 4X4 shop this weekend and they told me to go in spots or I should say short beads from one side to the next and also to let cool between runs. Now like I said I was told this. And I wouldn't know any better, He said that they where told this by Mark Willams (sp)
    I asked about where to put the pinon at he said to put the pinon down just a bit so when you get on the gas it will pull the pinon up to where you need it but if you put it right at the pinon then you get on it it move the pinon to a point to where the u-joint will wear out faster.
    I hope this made some sence haha. And if any one has any input about this it will be welcome.

    Eric
     
  12. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Hey Rene

    Do you pre-heat the perches any? Just wondering....
     
  13. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    7014's are cheating Rene. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif 7014 is going to be your best bet Steve especially if you are not a really good welder. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif 90Amps should be plenty to run a 1/8 rod. 7018 will deal you fits unless everything is perfectly clean.
     
  14. SCOTTS_4X

    SCOTTS_4X 1/2 ton status

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    if you need help I can drop by and help you out with the welding. if not, the tips above should get you in like flynn.

    -Scott
     
  15. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    It's a good rod that's easy to use...that's not cheating/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Rene
     
  16. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I didn't pre-heat mine...didn't see the need. Maybe if your machine is only marginally capable of the necessary heat I would. Steve's stick welder won't have any trouble running 1/8" 7014 or getting enough heat into it.

    Rene
     
  17. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Option #2:

    Limp it to my house somehow and I'll MIG it for you.....

    Or if you have 220V hookups, I can bring the welder to you.....!!! MIG worked great on mine....built my own spring perches from scratch, then welded them on. Must be a good job, because they survived Moab, and the entire road trip.

    Seriously, if you want the MIG let me know.....

    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  18. ZonkRat

    ZonkRat 1/2 ton status

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    Friend with big mig welded mine.Cant help much there.If you have single joints on each end of shaft the angles should be close to opposite of each other to help cancel vibrations.With cardigan{CV} at transfer,set it so it's pointed straight when under power as the double joint at transfer will cancel it's own viberation. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gifer on 38s in TENN. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  19. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Double Cardan is what you meant? Cardigan is a sweater for yuppies ain't it?/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif/forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    Just messin with ya a little...all in fun!/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    Rene
     
  20. weldor

    weldor Registered Member

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    Welding electrodes that use the American Welding Society's electrode identification numbers are identified as follows:

    E-7018
    E=electrode
    70=70,000 pounds of tensile strength
    1=welding position (which happens to be ALL positions)
    8=Direct Current electrode positive and/or AC

    Medium penetration electrode.

    Recommended welding amperage 90-150 for 1/8" diameter. 90 amps will be hard to start and easily stuck.

    Recommended welding amperage for 3/32" diameter 80 - 110

    7014=
    70,000 pounds tensile (not hardness)
    1=all welding positions
    4= AC or DC with light penetration

    Considered a sheet metal electrode.

    E-7014 1/8" diameter recommended welding amperage 120 - 145.
    90 amps is much lower than recommended and slag inclusions will form creating weak welds.
    E-7014 3/32" diameter recommended welding amperage 70 - 90.

    Personally, I'd choose the 7018 or a 6011.

    6011=
    60,000 pounds of tensile stregth
    1=all welding positions
    1=DC electrode positive or AC
    1/8" diameter recommended welding amperage 50 - 70

    Considered a deep penetrating electrode.

    Oh yeah, that tensile strength is how much it should take to PULL apart one square inch of weld metal. Pretty tuff stuff is applied properly.
     

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