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Any tricks on mounting tranny to engine?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bigoltrux77, Nov 2, 2006.

  1. bigoltrux77

    bigoltrux77 1/2 ton status

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    Im working on my engine swap in my 83. I got the engine in and it mounted to the frame. Is the engine supposed to beable to move up and down in the back while its disconnected from the tranny? If so, im on the right track, if not im screwed. LOL. Are there and tricks on getting the flywheel mated back to the engine and getting the bellhousing to the block? Thanks in advanc. This is my first swap, if you havent noticed. LOL
     
  2. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    The movement on the back of the engine is normal, you only have it supported on 2 points now at the engine mounts, until you bolt it to the tranny which gets you the full support.
    Now to get the flywheel on, you should have that on the engine before you put it in, not much room to work between the tranny and the engine, still can be done but not the easiest.
    Now comes the hard part, you need to mount the clutch if it's a manual, or the torque converter if it's an auto.
    The auto is easier but the clutch need to be setup using an alignm,ent tool so that the splines are aligned in the middle and the input shaft from the tranny can slide in easily.
    It helps having another set of hands to help aligning the tranny next and wigling it till it slides in place.
    Hope that helped some :D
     
  3. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    Are you working with an automatic transmission?



    .
     
  4. bigoltrux77

    bigoltrux77 1/2 ton status

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    Yes its a TH350
     
  5. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    Be sure the torque converter is all the way in the transmission. Spin it while you push it in, it should go in a couple or few different steps. When the transmission is mounted to the engine there should be about 1/4" between the flywheel and torque converter. If not, you did something wrong.



    I've found it easy to use some alignment dowels (threaded rod) to guide the transmission into place. Thread one rod into each lower hole. Then you can get the transmission started on one of the rods and start a nut on the rod to hold the transmission in place. Then you can adjust the transmission to start the other rod without the first one falling off. You can tighten the nuts on these two rods to bring the transmssion up to the block. Then install the 4 upper bolts. Remove the two rods in the lower holes and replace with bolts. Be sure the transmssion is square with the engine as you tighten it up to prevent the case from cracking (I'm not sure it would ever happen, but be careful just in case).


    Here are the two rods. Install them with no nuts. Put the transmission on and tighten it up with one nut on each rod. The double nuts were used to remove the rods.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. uao85

    uao85 1/2 ton status

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    use bolts


































    sorry couldnt resist.
     
  7. BadBob

    BadBob 1/2 ton status

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    Should be 3 steps. Don't stop at two :doah: did that once.
     

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