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Anyone got a tech article or write up on thier twin sticked Np203?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Mudbug1979, Oct 29, 2004.

  1. Mudbug1979

    Mudbug1979 1/2 ton status

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    Location:
    Monroe,North Carolina
    List of materials, pics, how to's? Anything? Thanks. I have done some searching but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for.
     
  2. seabass44

    seabass44 Registered Member

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    copied this from PIRATE4x4.com a week or so ago, there are pics just search over there. I saved them but they did not save on my computer correctly /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    QUOTE:
    ""I have already had a couple requests for this info so I did a write up and
    am posting it here. Please excuse me if my terminology is incorrect



    The way I did it was to start by taking apart one of the shifters paying
    close attention to the way the plates go together. To take apart the casing,
    bend the little tab straight, remove the two 1/4" nuts/bolts, and the large
    nut/bolt that the unit pivots on. Leave the bolt itself going through to
    hold the plates in place. Lift off half the casing.

    This is where you pay close attention to the way the plates are layed in
    there. Study it until you know it very well. Mark them somehow if you need
    to. One of the engagment plates is longer than the other. Make sure you
    don't flip flop them or you may not have enough adjustment in the rods.

    Take it apart cleaning all parts completely as you go. When you get down to
    the shift lever itself, you will notice that the little detent pin is inside
    a casing that is spot welded to the lever in 4 places. Remove the detent pin
    and all components. Take a grinder and grind down the 4 spot welds until you
    can remove that casing from the shift lever.

    Now take your clean shift lever and clamp the apropriate plate to the lever
    in the same position as if the detent pin was still there. When you are sure
    it's right, spot weld the engagment plate to the shift lever.

    Now you will take apart the other shifter assembly and all you need out of
    it is the shift lever. Again grind down the 4 spot welds and remove the
    detent casing from the lever. the only other parts I used were 4 washers
    that will fit around the pivot bushing.

    This is where you will need to re-shape the 2nd lever a bit. All I did was
    hold them together and mark 2 spots where I wanted it to bend, then I cut a
    groove in it about 3/4 of the thickness of the shifter with my grinder so I
    was able to slowly bend it to the shape I wanted it, then welded the grooves
    back up. If you have a torch you could probably heat and bend it also but I
    just used what I had. You may also have to turn the bolts for the chrome
    lever around so the heads are facing each other for maximum clearance.

    What I did next once the lever was shaped properly was to use a 1/4" bolt
    going through the neutral alignment holes in the bottom of the engagment
    plates to hold them in position as they were stock, and clamp the 2nd
    engagment plate and 2nd lever to the other plate/lever while aligning your
    shift levers so they will be even in the cab. Keep in mind that the 2
    engagment plates go BETWEEN the 2 levers so they ride close to each other as
    they did stock. when satisfied, spot weld the 2nd plate/lever as before.

    You will need to grind the pin and the upper "bump" from the inside of one
    of the shifter casing halves so there is no obstruction. The other side
    needs nothing done to it.

    At this point I did a preassembly of the parts as follows.

    You will have 1 washer on the inside against the casing, then your inside
    shift lever assembly, followed by 2 more washers, then the outside lever
    assembly, and one washer on the outside against the outside casing which I
    filed down slightly so that it was the exact thickness so the levers move
    freely when the pivot bolt is all the way tight yet will not be loose enough
    so the shifters rattle.

    Once you have them pre-assembled, you will see that the levers will move
    more in one direction than the other. I was unsure if it would be enough
    throw for engagment so I marked the plates where they hit the casing on the
    short side and took it back apart and used a grinder to cut a notch in the
    long plate and ground some on the shorter plate also. When I was satisfied
    that there would be enough throw to the levers, I simply assembled it all as
    before using light axle grease on all the pivot points and the pivot
    bushing.

    Install your new assembly back on the truck, align the neutral position with
    your 1/4" bolt and adjust your rods accordingly. I had to cut my floorboard
    back about an inch or so but I have a 3" body lift so I am unsure if it
    would need it without the body lift.

    Reading back over this, it seems a little confusing and pretty involved but
    it's really not very hard. I wish I had taken pictures before installing it.
    If you need me to clarify anything feel free to send a PM or contact me at

    TheSopranoCrew@Earthlink.NetUpdate

    I have found that the T-case shifter boot from a 86 Bronco II will work
    great for this. I picked up 2 of them today at the local salvage yard and it
    will be perfect. My shifters are about 2" apart. These boots are rectangular
    and measure about 2.5"x7" so if you overlap the bottom plate they will work
    great. They are very flexible so if your sticks end up a little closer or
    wider(depends how you modify your levers) , they will still work. All you
    need to do is fab up a hold down ring to go around both.
    Ok ladies and gentlemen, here are the pics I promised.

    The trim ring you are seeing here is from a Hurst single shifter boot
    available at Kragen or the like that the previous owner had in there. I
    think Hurst has a big one and a smaller one, this of course is the bigger
    one. The ring just happened to be the perfect size to fit around the 86
    Bronco II boots which are overlapped a bit at the bottom as mentioned
    before. Mine are a little squishy at the top due to the 3" body lift but if
    you have no body lift, there is still plenty of expansion in them. And
    please, no comments about my birdshit welds . They aren't too pretty but
    they work and are under the floor anyway . Enjoy!
     

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