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Anyone here repair home furnace systems??

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by 88Silverado, Jan 16, 2007.

  1. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    If so, can you PM me cuz I have problem I want to talk to you about before I call a repair company. :D :D

    Thanks!
     
  2. Jagged

    Jagged 1 ton status

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    I've got nothing on furnaces, but I like your avatar.

    I've gone for a couple rides in the camaros at certain locations ;)
     
  3. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    There are a few here with some furnace knowledge. I have oil burners and a steam boiler, so I know them a little. I'm hitting the sack now, but post up and someone will probably have an answer by morning...
     
  4. uglytruk

    uglytruk 1/2 ton status

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    ...and what's the problem? Aside from no heat...
     
  5. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Heres whats going on,
    I just replaced a seized draft blower assy last night. Everything seemed to be working OK for a few. The house thermostat gives the command to turn on, the draft blower starts up and engages a vacuum switch which tells the igniter assy to turn on the gas and light.

    The burners run for about 3-4 minutes until the sense thermostat on the unit hits 150degs at that point the sense thermostat then turns on the main blower. The temp drops down to around 140 and stays there. It doesn’t continue to climb until it hits overheat (200) so that appears to be working OK. After another 3-4 minutes of running normally, you can hear a switch close and the gas/burner shuts off, 1-3 seconds later it lights again runs for 1-4 seconds and goes off then restarts, the blower never turns off until the house is up to temp but the burner just continously cycles on/off.

    I changed the controller 2 years ago. Its a Honeywell S8610F1008 (i think). There doesnt appear to be a flame sense port on the unit so not sure if the controller uses the spark igniter wire as a feedback for flame lighting.

    Any ideas??
     
  6. uglytruk

    uglytruk 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry, I'm a lo-tech oil rag, at least that's what you-know-who tells me. Minimal gas exp...
     
  7. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    I'm no expert , just sell some parts .

    I can tell you no matter where you live , DO NOT CALL anyone with AA , AAA , AAAA in front of their names in the phone book . You will end up with a rip off guy or tweaker in your house :deal:
     
  8. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

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    Mine was "short cycling" for a couple of weeks, turned out the thermostat was toast. I think "bobvila.com" (sp?) is where I found out how to test the thermostat. I have the procedure at home, its really easy, but I can't remember for the life of me which wires I jumpered to test the thermostat.

    John
     
  9. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Just replaced the mechanical thermostat with an electronic one about 1 month ago cuz the old mechanical one just wouldnt shut off. It seems coincidental this just started after I replaced the draft fan. Last time I had a problem I troubleshot it to the controller. I called a service company and after the guy was here for an hour he told me it was the gas valve. I let him change it and that didnt fix the problem. I explained the troubleshooting I did to identify the controller and went back into the house. An hour later I came back out to check progress and he said he talked with his supervisor and the whole furnace is bad and needs to be replaced. I kindly asked him to remove his new valve he installed and leave. I later went to the store, bought a new controller, installed it and all has been fine for a couple years.

    I know the draft blower was starting to go out because it was starting to squeal worse than my sister-in-law stuck in mud :wink1: Besides, most of the service companies up here are talking 2-3 days before they can come out. I will call someone only if I have to....and hope they know what they're doing.
     
  10. 4by4bygod

    4by4bygod 1/2 ton status

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    if you end up having to call someone:

    Call these guys for a competitve quote
    http://www.onehourair.com/world/cms/ViewPage.do?pageCode=home

    They've got franchises nationwide, the 800 number should tell you the closest one to you.

    A buddy of mine owns one of these here in medina ohio..everything they do has a 100% no questions asked gaurantee, and they'll service all makes and models..
     
  11. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Are you sure there isn't a flame sensor? It should just be a bent piece of thick wire, inserted into the flame path somewhere. The ones on my Carrier furnaces are pretty hard to see because they buried them way in.

    It sounds like the flame sensor is shutting off the gas, then the controller tries to relight the flame. You can "fix" the flame sensor just by removing it and sanding the part of the wire that goes in the flame. They get corrosion built up on them over the years. Sanding the corrision off makes it work as good as new. :cool1:
     
  12. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    From what I learned today apparently the spark igniter wire can also be used as the flame sense line. When it lights the resistance changes saying its lit. I was just about to remove it last night and decided not to. I will remove that part and look it over. Maybe Its cracked or dirty and takes some time to heat up and become intermittant.
     
  13. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Check the ground on your pilot assembly- it's a green wire that goes to the spark control module. Make sure it's nice and snug at both ends with clean connections. Sometimes the purge fan(draft blower) is grounded to the control module too. Trace your green(ground) wires closely.
     
  14. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    I removed and cleaned the ground yesterday while troubleshooting. Theres only one ground wire going from the controller to the bracket where the ignitor mounts (OOPs, theres two. one for power and one for the ignitor). I just confirmed what is called the "Pilot Burner" on the schematic and is connected to the "Spark Ignitor" terminal on the controller, is also the flame sensor. I will remove it, clean the sensor and the grounds again and give it a try.

    Thanks all for the Help! :bow: :bow: :bow:
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2007
  15. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I just got back into town and I'm slambed with frozen places around here (-20F).
    If you can hang in there, I'll try to check back tonight. I can fix any furnace, boiler, oil burner etc. I own a plumbing & heating co.
    HANG IN THERE. I'll be back.
     
  16. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Did you get it fixed?
     
  17. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Not yet,

    Had a quick minute so I bypassed the Overheat switch and it still does it.
    Tomorrow I'll pull the ignitor/Flame sensor unit and check that.
     
  18. uglytruk

    uglytruk 1/2 ton status

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    Years ago I bought a BACHARACH effeciency tester. It's in a large blue brief case. I tried to use it, but too complicated fro my feeble brane. Is there a new eeeelectronic gizmo that's simpler- to measure the efeciency of my boilers?
     
  19. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Come on dood! Those things are cake, I own one. Unless you got some POCrap, it shouldn't be very hard. It may help to take a class on them just to make it easier but none of them will just tell you what to do. You need to understand the principals of combustion analyzing first. Maybe check out the PCA models if it still gives you a hard time. You should be able to sell it for some good money if it's in good shape. Sorry, didn't mean to give you a hard time.
    BTW, there's nothing simple about properly adjusting an oil burner. They are a PITA.
     
  20. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    The first thing you need to do is get a volt meter.
    If you check the voltage at the S86 control TH & 24V terminals and the power is constant when the burner drops out, it's in the control or the flame sensing circuit. If the power drops out to the S86, it's in the safety circuit of the furnace. Maybe the pressure switch (you called it a vac. switch) is dropping out for a moment when the flue gases get heated up.
    If you jumper the pressure switch after it's running and it stays running, you found it. I think it sounds more like a overheating problem to me.
    This might be dumb but hows your filter? Moving enough air?
     

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