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Anyone know how to do the ford solonoid swap?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by SCOOBYDANNN, Feb 10, 2004.

  1. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    Need to do this mod and have no idea how to wire it up. Has anyone done this or does anyone have a diagram or instrictiond on how to do it?

    thanks
     
  2. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I assume you are talking about the starter.
    I did this
    basicly I started at the starter. put a jumper from the batt. terminal to the smaller keyedswitch terminal on the silly. Next connect the batt cable from hte silly to the 'dead' side of the Ferd Silly. connect the Hot side to the Batt. take the orginal keyedswitch wire and hook it to the Ferd silly. Done
    basically the only time 12v is down at the started is when it's crankin over.
    Hope this helps
    /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  3. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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  4. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    AWESOME!!!

    thanks blazerguy
     
  5. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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  6. Hardcore

    Hardcore 1/2 ton status

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    So this solenoid is just like a relay, just like the headlight mod, more juice to the starter correct /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  7. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    all you are really doing is moving the solonoid away from the heat (headers.) which in turn makes it easier to start when the truck has already been running.
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    A little more theroy behind this swap

    Stock GM way you have one +hot lead(live wire w/no current) going from the batt to the silly on the starter. During operation the starter/silly & cable are heating up. Elctronics 101 says heat makes atoms/molcules (what ever you call um) go crazy,kinda bouncin everywere(with no current) inside the cable. This inturn creates more resistance inside the batt cable. When you trun the key in the stock setup the current now has to punch thru this heat/resistance wich in turn lowers the 'power' or amprage to the silly/starter combo.
    By placing a second silly up on your fender well now the +hot live cable is not going to heat up. Yes the cable going down to the starter still gets hot but sence it is not live or Hot the lil dudes inside the cable are sleeping and you have WAY less resistance build up. When you turn the key to trip the Ferd Silly...BAM! all the power and current and voltage and everything slams down that cable and just mows over any risitance build up and vvvrrrrrrooooommmmmmmmmm your rig fires up! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
    Hope this helps...
     
  9. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    I have the directions that Summit Racing provided with their remote solenoid kit. There is a scan in my webshots gallery:

    http://community.webshots.com/album/53097141OXkhSg

    Just uploaded them so it will take a few minutes for the directions to show up on there.
     

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