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Anyone not running wheel wells

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 8_YOUR_H2, Jun 16, 2001.

  1. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    I am thinking about just taking the wheel wells out all together so I can get some majorly cut fenders. But I can tell there is going to be a problem with relocating a few minor things...like the battery, overflow..ect and I know therre will be a BIG problem with mud buildup in the engine compartment. Does have any comments.
    Brent
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    If you relocated the battery somewhere else I don't see why you couldn't fab some aluminum inners with way more room for tire clearance. Have them bolt higher on the fender.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  3. '73 K5

    '73 K5 1/2 ton status

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    I wouldn't take them out and leave them out. It would take you sooooooo long to clean all the mud from everything under the hood if you did that. Not to mention what about all the water splashing on the engine.

    '73 K5
    Chevy good...Ford bad
     
  4. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    I've had mine out for about 2 1/2 years. I just welded in a couple pieces of steel from the battery trays to the radiator support, and relocated a couple other things. It's pretty simple, just relocate or reinforce whatever comes off or comes loose when you ditch them.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  5. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    When I run mud and see the build up of stuff in the wells... it's like 2-3 inches thick. If you took the wells out you'd have all that going up into the engine. You can fab something up I am sure or go someplace to have them make something where you get more clearance but not lose that protection. I for one wouldn't want to spend the hours of work cleaning out the engine and the risk of something going in there!

    "Suck Fumes Ford Boy"
    "I love my country, I fear my government"
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html>http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html</A>
     
  6. bandit

    bandit 1/2 ton status

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    take em out and put in some rubber flaps as new ones

    AJ
    Soon to wheelin spot near you
    Project Harvey[​IMG]
     
  7. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    I'm in the same boat, I need to fab up some inner fender wells, cuz' when the rigs flexed out, the tires will try to self-clearnce the inner fender wells. I think you defenently need the inners, though. Take a look in the engine bay and notice that the main wireing loom to the fuse block is right in the path of flying debree- spells out big trouble down the road.

    Anyone with some pics of some fabed up inner wheel wells?

    Twiztid
     
  8. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    I thought about removing mine cuz it would make it so much easier to work on.Just sit on the tire and everything is right there.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</A>
     
  9. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    i have had mine out for about a year now. as soon as i get new fenders, weld the holes up on the inseide cut the hell out of them and then install them i am going to get some .030'' aluminum from work and build high clearance fenderwells for my blazer. i would not plan on going through water or mud till you do that AND put RTV on your dist cap...

    I even got pics of working inside my eng compartment...
    it is nice. i figure when i do make my new ones i will also get some dzus fastners from work and make them removable...

    1974 Chevy Blazer Cheyanne. lots of plans for it....
    but it is on 33's now, with saggy old springs. i am in so cali if ya got any parts for me.
     
  10. ROCKBUGGYK5

    ROCKBUGGYK5 1/2 ton status

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    i dont have a body does that count, mines all tube and has no inner fenders, i dont run that much mud so i dont have a problem, if ur rockcrawlin then ditch them
    adam

    ROCKBUGGY K5 38S LOCKED AND CHOPPED
     
  11. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    in that case i would still recomend RTV on the distributor and some sort of guard out of sheet metal. even if you have never had problems i would do it a precaution
    just my mind speaking....

    1974 Chevy Blazer Cheyanne. lots of plans for it....
    but it is on 33's now, with saggy old springs. i am in so cali if ya got any parts for me.
     
  12. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    I run fibrerglass fenders with no inners....no problems at all.....I don't t do mud though. Prerunner fenders have lots of room with no cutting.....or rust. I've got 35's on my 2wd with 3" of lift.

    Michael[​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm>http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm</A>
     
  13. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    I can change the plugs without opening the hood.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  14. FastEddy

    FastEddy 1/2 ton status

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    for my shortened suburban (see pics at http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/fasteddy454 look under "my toys") I was thinking of removing them to trim more of the fender (since the inners are almost rusted off the truck anyway) and just going straight up from the frame with aluminum, making them removable as well for engine access, we only run mud, but I never wash the truck anyway, the brush and the rain are like a drive through car wash anyway....just my 2 cents...ED
     
  15. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I have seen guys bolt thick sheets (not super thick, but enough to give it rigitity) of sheetmetal to the frame using angle iron brackets. They bolt/weld angle iron to the frame, trim the bottom of the sheet metal to match the contour of the frame with cutouts for going over power steering lines, places to route electrical and hood release cables. Drill through the angle iron and sheet metal, and bolt them together. They then put rubber flaps to mate up to the hood to keep debris from entering the engine compartment. Some use rubber and some use metal ententions to block debris from hitting the fuseblock, master cylinder, battery, and lights. A few bolts (as well as winshield washer pump resevoir line) remove them and working on the engine is a piece of cake. I would like to do this someday, but I need to find the time first.

    If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
     

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