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articulation

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by nmk5, Apr 18, 2002.

  1. nmk5

    nmk5 Registered Member

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    I'm looking for some ( cheaper ) tricks on gaining more flex. Any ideas???
    85 k5 4" 35's
     
  2. BOWTIE

    BOWTIE 1/2 ton status

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    what have you done so far?
     
  3. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    One of the cheapest mods would be removing your sway bar.
     
  4. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Remove the bolt that holds the leaves of the spring pack together. It will allow the leaves to seperate during articulation, allow for more articulation. Also make sure you have the right length shock in the rear for full articulation.

    For the front, disconnect the swaybar. Offroad Design sells the kit for like $80. Or you can do like I did, and just remove the swaybar all together. Also, the right length shock in the front helps too. The Offroad Design Extended front shackles with greaseable bushings ($70) can help some with articulation too. It reduces bind on the springs at the shackles to help flex.
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Disconect or remove the front sway bar...it's free and good for quite a bit more flex. Greasable shackles and bushings...not free but pretty cheap and easy to do...also good for a little more flex.
    Relocate the rear shocks...open up the spring clamps a little.

    I've done all those and I've ramped a 1065 on a 20 degree ramp. That's one tire roughly 38+ inches off the ground.

    Rene
     
  6. BOWTIE

    BOWTIE 1/2 ton status

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    you could also flip your overload leaf from your rear spring pack.
     
  7. nmk5

    nmk5 Registered Member

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    what is the down side on the paved road with the sway bar off
     
  8. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    bump steer, body roll, and funny braking side effects... other than that, I never missed mine! /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif Just take it out, and see what you think. If you don't like it, put it back, and buy the ORD quick disconnects.

    Just my .02

    -Dan
     
  9. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Fill out your profile! You are the second guy I told this to tonight! Yikes! Anyhow, use the "bio" section to describe your truck for everyone... this way folks can help better.

    Just my .02

    -Dan
     
  10. nmk5

    nmk5 Registered Member

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    dumb question wheres the bio section???
     
  11. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Go to "My Home" on the top of this screen, and then edit "Personal information, email, password, etc." Towards the bottom, you will see "Bio." Hope that helps....

    -Dan
     
  12. nmk5

    nmk5 Registered Member

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    got it thanks
     
  13. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    With your 4 inch lift, you could just lose the sway bar completely and most likely be fine. I threw mine away and didnt notice much more body roll on the street. In fact I think it rode better because the bumps on one tire did not transfer over to the other side as hard.
     
  14. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    On the street you wont miss the sway bar.The ride will be a little less harsh over bumps with out it.I ran with out one for years and only put it back on after I put on super soft springs.I leave it disconnected in town but I hook it back up for the trip up the twisty mountain roads to where I like to wheel.
     
  15. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Disconnect your swaybar, and make sure your shocks will allow for articulation. I've got a 4" lift and shocks made for a 4" lift, however the shocks will only extend about 1.5" past where they normally sit. So in my case the shocks are the limiting factor for me.
     
  16. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Shocks in the front are limiting factor in travel. Reloacting the shock mount will help. See the Project vehicle reviews on the main page and look at Steve's truck "Project UAV" He has a good write up on using Frod F250 shouck mounts (no welding).
    In the rear on the 70's truck the limiting factor is the parking brake cables. The 80's trucks have a different parking brake cable set up and it's not as much of an issue. After that it's Shocks. The way I bought my shocks is I took the shocks loose and ramped it. I measured my compressed and extended lengths. I took an inch off the compressed lenght to make sure I would not bottom out the shocks. Took this information to Autozone and they had a chart showing the travel and compressed and extended lenghts and matched them up to the shock that was the closest to my needs. Error on the side that you will not bottom that shock out. If the shock bottoms then you will break shock mounts.
    In the rear lift springs kill you. For most flex you the stock mid 80's up springs and do a shackle flip. www.offroaddesign.com
    The shackle flip will cause the stock spring to have a lower effective spring rate.
    With the above mods with no Sway bar and looseng the clamps on the sprigs with VERY stiff ranch springs I ramp cloose to 800 on a 25 degree ramp. Depdog with Identical rear. Softer EZlift front springs, Extended shock mounts ramps in the 900's.
    Down side...this makes the rear springs very soft. VERY bad for towing. Causes some bump steer from the rear. I ended up adding a leaf to the rear of my truck and lost a little flex. I had to do it. I pull a trailer from time to time and it was just to ill handling with the trailer to be safe.
     

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