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Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 8BaLL, Jun 19, 2002.

  1. 8BaLL

    8BaLL Registered Member

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    First off I have an 85 k5 blazer. I am going to totally redo the whole car. I want to put a 6inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift while running 37's. I hear you guys talk about 10 bolts and 14 bolts and lockers and all kinds of other stuff that I do not fully understand /forums/images/icons/frown.gif I plan on driving my Blazer as a daily driver and doing mudding. I am not going to rock climb or do any really extreme off roading. Will I be ok with my axles and differentials and gearing? What should I do?
     
  2. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    depends on what axles you have. i would assume you have 10 bolts. i wouldn't go 37" tall on 10s. my suburban has a 14bolt semi floater rear and i like it. but it has a 10 bolt front. i run 36s and i'm fine but i plan on getting a dana 60 this year. my rear end is not as strong as a 14 bolt full floater but it's strong enough that i haven't broken it yet, the suburban has been jumped twice and mud bogged a few times ant it's still perfect. for a daily driver/ mudder (like me) i would reccommend that you at least get a bigger rear axle. the 14b sf is lighter has better clearance and is plenty strong for a k5 IMO.
     
  3. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    If you pay the money now for 3/4 Ton setup, you will save money in the long run. Since your buying tires anyway and if you dont worry about a Dana 60, You should be able to pick up a set of 3/4 ton axles for the price of one 12 bolt rear. They go for about $500 around here. I wish I had.
     
  4. 8BaLL

    8BaLL Registered Member

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    So I should by 3/4 ton axles then? Should I just call around to junk yards and see if they have any or what?? What does a dana 60 go for?
     
  5. BIGJ

    BIGJ 1/2 ton status Author

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    Yep go with 3/4 ton. A dana 60 will be big $$$ when you get finished with it. You can convert your 10 bolt to 8 lug and should be able to pick up a 14 bolt for not too much money. 37's with a 10 bolt should hold up fairly well, if you don't run a locker up front or have a heavy right foot.

    BIGJ
     
  6. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Personally I'd run 35"s and no body lift if you want something you can drive everyday. You open up a whole can of worms when you do a body lift. Like getting the fan shroud to line up, linkages, yada yada. Of course I'm only running 32"s, and it,s your truck, not mine. So who cares what i say, lol /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif
     
  7. trailblazer87

    trailblazer87 1/2 ton status

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    If you have more power than stock, and stock gears I would not run anything over 35's. That is a lot of leverage for a little 10bolt. If you tend to be throttle heavy /forums/images/icons/grin.gif anywhere get at least a dana 44 front and 12bolt rear. If you are getting a locker (not a limited slip) get at least the alloy axle shafts for that 10 bolt. Unfortunately the stock 10 bolt is about the worst thing that could be put under a 4x4. I just found an 88 f/forums/images/icons/shocked.gifrd one ton to get the axles from for my 87 k5
     
  8. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    You said you like to go mudding, so assuming you mash the gas like I do when mudding, I'd recomened a Dana 44 up front and a 14 bolt full floating in the rear. I personally am not a fan of body lifts, too much involved. I'm doing a 6" suspension lift with 35" tires. I'm also going with 4:88 gears, but for your app, I'd recomened either 4:10's or 4:56's and a Detroit locker in the rear.
     
  9. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    I think you'd be pushin' it with 37's on 10 bolt rear. Go with a 14 bolt. When I lived in Shreveport, LA, I could get one for $50. So it shouldn't much different in your neck on the woods. You could just slap on 1/2 ton knuckles up front front to keep the same lug pattern, but for the cost and hassle you should try gettin the D44 3/4 ton axle at the same time as the 14b.
    Its important to be patient and way things out. Continue to gather info like you are doing, and you'll do fine! Good luck!
     
  10. MudbogAD

    MudbogAD 1/2 ton status

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    Bodylift's are perfect for a daily driver/muddin. IMO bodylifts are easier to install than suspension anyway.I can have "muddysub" vouch for me on that. Runnin 37's on 10bolts is kinda pushin it but if you don't really romp it too hard you should be OK. If you do want to run stronger axles it would be a good idea to run an 8 lug conversion up front with your existing 10 bolt and a 14 Bolt semi-floater or full floater for the rear. Good luck. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  11. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    I'd definately say that suspension lifts are far more easier to install than a tall body lift.
     
  12. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    The suspension is where its happenin'. Its a perfect excuse to put in better parts like springs, shocks, and greasable bushings.
     
  13. MudbogAD

    MudbogAD 1/2 ton status

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    It took me and "muddysub" 2 days to install his 4 inch suspension lift. It took us 3 hours to install my 3 inch bodylift. I'm almost positive it's gonna take longer than 3 hours to install a suspension lift. It's easy if you have the correct tools.
     
  14. mplogic

    mplogic 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry, but the whole purpose of running big tires is to increase your off-road ability (bigger tires = more leverage and traction). Putting 37s on a street truck is just as rediculous as dropping a car so far that it can't drive over speed bumps, IMO.

    Personally I wouldn't run anything over 33's on those older 10 bolts. In 89 they upgraded the 10 bolt axles a bit but they are still notably weaker than a Dana 44 (just lighter duty for effeciency's sake). I know guys running 35s on the 89 and later 10bolts, but they either baby their trucks or have broken and replaced axleshafts and more.

    If you want to do an axle swap, gearing change, lift, etc., in order to run bigger tires, expect to spend thousands of dollars before it's all done. I'm about half way through my swap and I can't believe what it's costing me (to do it the right way). All the bearings, universals, ball joints, and other worn out parts you are going to find add up really quick. Not to mention extended brake lines, raised steering arm, longer travel shocks, lengthening driveshafts (if you're lucky enough to not need a new one), and a bunch of other things I'm probably forgetting. I'm not trying to disuade you from doing what you want, but you might want to reconsider what the purpose of the vehicle will be. A broken down truck with HUGE tires is no way to impress the ladies. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    Find a nice set of 32s or 33s, maybe a minimal lift, and a good posi or soft locker and you'll have a truck that looks good and can probably out-wheel most of the high riding showboats out there.
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    You're not kidding on the thousands of dollars to do it right. Luckily I got my axles for free and all I needed was a new set of balljoints, gear lube, and cover gaskets and I was good to go. I could have spent mondo dollars if they didn't have the right gears already or anything.
     

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