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Auto Locking hubs/removal... help a brotha out!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by JesterCCK1, Dec 4, 2006.

  1. JesterCCK1

    JesterCCK1 Newbie

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    Looking for a procedure on removal of stock auto locking hubs, and replacement of rotor and replacement of hubs.... thanx!
     
  2. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Its pretty simple. Been covered MANY times on here and also in the haynes and chiltons manuals.

    Here are the basics: Your gonna need a 4 prong hub socket, various picks and snap ring pliers to remove the clips and snap rings in the hub, and an assortment of sockets.

    Remove the 6 allen screws holding the auto hub on. Remove the large ring on the inside of the hub with a pick. Remove the snap ring on the end of the axleshaft (if applicable). Screw 2 of the allen bolts back into their holes and pull the hub out. Using the 4 prong hub socket, unscrew the outer hub nut. Remove the round keyed lockring, and other lockring. Remove inner hub nut. Remove outer bearing and store in a clean place. Remove the hub and rotor assembly.
    -Harrison
     
  3. blazersnburban

    blazersnburban Registered Member

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    make sure when u put it back together to get the 4 prong nut with the little tit on it turned just right,so that the next piece with the tab and all the holes around it lines up...so one of the holes have to fit on the tit on the nut while the tab fits also and the nut is tight enuff where u can spin your wheel about 1 revolution with your hand...some1 explain that better, i may have confused him more than helping
     
  4. JesterCCK1

    JesterCCK1 Newbie

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    four prong hub socket? where would I get one of those?
     
  5. Chrisblazzer89

    Chrisblazzer89 1/2 ton status

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    Autozone, Advanced auto parts, or napa. hubnut removel socket.

    IN the help isle
     
  6. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Lets see if I can try to explain it a little clearer (although its always hard to explain this).

    Tighten the inside hub nut with the 4 prong socket to 50 ft/lbs. Then back off. Re-tighten to 35 ft/lbs, and back off 3/8 of a turn. Next, install the thicker of the two metal rings (this one also has a little "tit" or metal nipple on it). Then install the thin round metal ring with all of the holes in it. One of the holes on this ring must line up with the "tit" on the other metal ring, and this outside ring also has a key on it that fits into the keyed groove of the spindle. If you dont get the key in the groove on the spindle AND the "tit" to line up in the hole, your hub will back itself off when your driving and fry your bearings. Once you get this all lined up, torque the outer hub nut to 160-180 ft/lbs. Installation of hubs is in reverse order of how i explained to remove them before.

    P.S. This is also a good time to inspect the bearings and races for wear. If the bearings are good, you want to re pack them with grease before you install them.
    -Harrison
     

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