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Auto to Manual tranny- How Hard??????/

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Adrock, Jan 15, 2001.

  1. Adrock

    Adrock 1/2 ton status

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    i want to take out my TH350 and put in a SM465, but if is to much work i am just gonna get a 700-r4 from Jet. please help. I have an 88 blazer, smallblock, when i put the new tranny in an NP205/NP203 doubler is goin in behind it. hope thats enough info.

    Adam
    a.k.a. Adrock
    88 Chevy Blazer FI 383
    Feel the Thunder
    [​IMG]
     
  2. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    i have done this before on other rigs and the biggest pain in the a$$ is putting the clutch linkage in but is not as bad as everyone thinks it is

    s.smith 77blazer lookin 4 mud
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Start looking for a hydraulic setup out of a newer C/K (say from 86 or so up till 91) You will eliminate any hassles, and the firewall already has the correct dimples for where the master cylinder will go. It is SOO much easier than doing manual linkage, its just harder to find the hydraulic setup. The later trucks are also hard if you want to use the bolt in floor pans. My 700R4 Tub did not have a bolt in tranny tunnel, so I'm going to have to cut and weld this one to fit the 205 shifter...

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
     
  4. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I converted my '87. It was worth it. I really like the NV4500. There is a parts list on my website
    showing most of the stuff I used. http://www.geocities.com/tneg50/
    Good luck!

    SteveB
     
  5. Adrock

    Adrock 1/2 ton status

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    anyone know any sites where I can get info on doing this swap?


    Adam
    a.k.a. Adrock
    88 Chevy Blazer FI 383
    Feel the Thunder
    [​IMG]
     
  6. titanic

    titanic 1/2 ton status

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    I did this very thing when I built my truck. I could sell you everything you need for a linkage setup right down to the flywheel/bellhousing to the 465/203 Doubler/205 setup I have. I was wanting $1500 for the 465/203/205 but would remove everything else for extra. I think putting the actually clutch/brake pedals in was the hardest. Building shorter wheelbase rig so I can't use Doubler.
     
  7. Adrock

    Adrock 1/2 ton status

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    i think i might take you up on that offer, but it'll be a while till i can get that much money up. thanks alot. do you know anywhere where I can get more info on the swap? thanks alot.

    Adam
    a.k.a. Adrock
    88 Chevy Blazer FI 383
    Feel the Thunder
    [​IMG]
     
  8. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Adrock are you a Beastie Boys fan?


    <font color=green> No machines are perfect!</font color=green>
     
  9. Adrock

    Adrock 1/2 ton status

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    Since I was 13. one of my friends in high school just started calling me Adrock and it kinda stuck, now the only people who call me adam are my parents and girlfriend.

    Adam
    a.k.a. Adrock
    88 Chevy Blazer FI 383
    Feel the Thunder
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I finished this swap a few months ago. I need to get in gear and write an article on this swap. Ok, here goes..

    I had the TH350 and NP203 combo in my K5. I decided to install the SM465 Trans and a NP205 case. Basically, I removed the tranny and case together in one unit. Then I removed the flexplate. Install a pilot bushing (I have heard bushings are better than bearings) in your crank flange. Then install your flywheel, clutch(using a lineup tool), pressure plate, bellhousing, fork, and throwout bearing - in that order. Next get a tranny jack or a jack and strong friends. I had my tranny tunnel removed for this part. Install the transmission. Bolt it up, but be easy when you pull the bolts tight, you want to go in equally with the tranny if its tight fitting. Next install the transfer case. Bolt up the crossmember and driveshafts. Now, you will want to go to the junkyard and find any 2wd or 4wd with clutch pedals, regardless if you are using linkage or slave cyl. Get the pedals and hanger, big spring to help with pedal movement (this is tough to get), Linkage rod going through the floor, linkage bolting to the frame and bellhousing, plus - importantly, the bracket on the frame. You will either need a chisel or torch to get this bracket. The good thing is, your frame is already drilled for this bracket (Wooo HOO GM!). The pedal hanger was a little tough, but it was not the hardest part in my opinion. To remove and install the pedal hangers, you will need to remove the master cylinder (not from the lines only from the firewall and let it hang aside) - 4 bolts, plus 2 other bolts below the master cyl. While you are there, remove the bolts holding the steering colum clamp. I only loosened these bolts to let me move the column down. Next go inside and remove the plate below the column, the trim plate above that, plus go ahead and remove your dash trim. Remove your heater/AC duct. Next remove the two big bolts holding the column up, and let it droop down and rest on your seat. Next remove the linkage from your brake pedal and have someone on the engine side of the firewall pull out the master cyl. Now with a little cussing and prying, you can remove the pedal hanger. The bad thing about your stock hanger is, it was not made for just adding a clutch pedal (GM bad). There may be some relays attached to your hanger, plus the brake switch and the cruise vacuum brake switch. Make sure your new clutch/brake pedal hanger has the holes drilled for the relays to bolt back in (I had to drill mine), also check to see that your brake pedal to master cyl linkage is the appropriate size for the new pedals. My new pedals had a bigger dowel that the linkage bolts onto, so I had to re-use my auto brake pedal. I just trimmed off part of it and now I have a wider brake pedal (it makes for a better footing when you are needing to stop in a hurry). Install the hanger by itself into the dash but dont push it all the way into place. I had to do mine this way because I didnt have room to have the pedals installed while installing the hanger (you will have to pry and fight it!). Install the pedals and tighten the bolt, then push the hanger into place. Once the hanger is in place, start by installing the brake and master cyl, then do the clutch.

    Install the linkage exactly as you removed it from the donor vehicle. Dont forget to get the small clips and spacers that hold the linkage to the pedal and to the lower linkage. You will have to drill a 2" hole in your floor using a hole saw. Another good thing about this, GM put a dimple in the floorboard where the pilot drill will go. They also made the sound deadning material so you could remove this round portion for the clutch linkage. After you get the clutch linkage installed, adjust it per a Chiltons or Haynes manual.

    Whew. Done, now get everyone from the front of the vehicle and crank it over.... OOPs, you forgot to install the starter after installing the tranny - dont forget that, I didnt but I forgot to mention it earlier.

    Some interesting facts I found:
    The SM465/NP205 combo fit into the place of the TH350/NP203 perfectly. I re-used the same holes in the frame and used the NP203 crossmember. For your front driveshaft if you had the same combo, you will have to have it cut down some. I think my new dimension was 27.25" from CL of yoke to Flange face. Rear driveshaft heres what I found. I was at my uncles small pastuer of cars. He had a 3/4 ton 2wd long bed Chevy Truck with a good driveshaft. I removed the shaft and thought It would be a good one to cut down and use for my K5 because I had planned to go 3/4 ton anyway. Well, I noticed by laying the factory shaft and the 3/4 ton truck shaft side by side, the 3/4 ton shaft was about 6"-8" longer and had the same splines as my slipyoke. Well, this 3/4 ton shaft also had a carrier bearing attached to it right near the splined portion. I used a torch to remove the carrier bearing, then I tried my front slip yoke and it worked!!! To my surprise, I had a driveshaft that was perfect length and I did not have to do anything. After test fitting the new/not so new shaft, I decided to chop about 1" off the splines to keep it from bottoming out under full articulation. This still allowed much travel without the worry of the slip portion coming out under extreme flex. I was stoked! I drove the K5 and it worked perfect. No vibration. Make sure you align the yokes correctly or you will get a vibration. I have since driven the K5 at 70+ MPH without vibration. My front shaft I had cut down at a local shop. I didnt bother to balance the front shaft after cutting because I will not be driving it at high speeds in 4 wheel drive. It drives great with the front shaft engaged without vibrations so I guess I lucked out and found a good shaft shop! You will love having 6.55:1 first gear. It creeps, plus adding 4.56 or 4.88 gears makes it creep even more. OK thats a wrap...

    Mudzer 1978/91 K5
    <font color=blue>www.mudzer.coloradoK5.com</font color=blue>
     
  11. Adrock

    Adrock 1/2 ton status

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    wow, thanks alot, i really appreciate it. i hope i can help you in the future somehow.

    Adam
    a.k.a. Adrock
    88 Chevy Blazer FI 383
    Feel the Thunder
    [​IMG]
     

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