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Auto to manual

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by madups311, Nov 19, 2001.

  1. madups311

    madups311 Registered Member

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    Has anybody done this swap???
    What all does it include(tranny,shifter,pedals) etc. etc. etc. etc. etc.???????????

    1979 Jimmy 4" skyjacker, add-a-leaf, 35" M/T's, Body Lift purchased.
    2001 Pathfinder LE Mile Marker Winch
     
  2. mudddog91

    mudddog91 1/2 ton status

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    Ive done this recently so if youve got any specific questions Ill be glad to help.Yes drive shafts need to be changed and
    you have to swap out the entire brake pedal assy for the brake clutch pedal assy which entails dropping the steering column and cutting a hole in the floor plus you need the bracket that mounts to the frame to hold the opposite end of the linkage tube for the clutch,its not a bad swap and its worth every m@#her f@#$er you will say installing that heavy ass manual tranny.We are talking about th 465 right?
     
  3. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    i just did this last weekend....it wasent as hard as i thought it would be...its just very time consuming....it took me almost double the time i had figured...i wouldent plan on doin it in a weekend...plan on at least 5 days...between forgeting to get parts and just trying to find things thats about how long it took me...total cost for the coversion was:
    Belhousing, clutch pedels and slave cilinder $250 (from wrecking yard)
    centerforce clutch, pilot bearing, flywheel $400
    SM465 and 205 $560 (to get 465 rebuilt..it was all rusted up inside)
    other misc parts i would guess about $70 bucks...i am sure you could do it for under 1000...just the rebuilding of the tranny i had not planed for...when i pulled it out of my shed it had looked like it filled up with water and it wouldent even shif into gear.
    if you have any questions PM me

    <font color=green>Chaz</font color=green>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/chaz88k5>http://community.webshots.com/user/chaz88k5</a>
     
  4. madups311

    madups311 Registered Member

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    Thanks alot for the help both of ya, I think I will have to do this in the near future..

    1979 Jimmy 4" skyjacker, add-a-leaf, 35" M/T's, Body Lift purchased.
    2001 Pathfinder LE Mile Marker Winch
     
  5. Danno

    Danno 1/2 ton status

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    Question: Why doesn't someone take some pics and jot down some detailed directions on these auto to manual swaps? It seems like this question pops up pretty frequently, and it would definately help people like me who are looking into this conversion.

    Sounds like it would be an easy write up for some of you guys who have done it before. Get together, compare notes, and write a tech article! [​IMG]

    1984 K5 Blazer 4x4 Silverado
    6.2L diesel, 700R4, 3.42 gears, 31x10.5" tires
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Good idea. I'm doing this soon. I'd like to read it.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The only thing that I would say *could* be a real sticking point is whether or not you are going hydraulic or mechanical. Depending on vintage (85-up or 84-down) the truck will have the "dimples" for all of the correct year clutch stuff. (mech for the first year block, hydraulic for the second)

    When doing my truck however, (lucky, had the body off) which has an '81 frame, I noticed that the holes to mount the "z-bar" as most call it, for the mech linkage, which is a plate that bolts to the frame right near the firewall, were not there. Once I got my truck together (and got hydraulic clutch parts anyways) I noticed that it looks like that plate would be darn near impossible to mount with the body in place, if the holes aren't there. Not sure what years the "missing holes" apply to, but I am curious if anyone has done mech linkage when the holes weren't there, and the body and fenders were still on the truck.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
     
  8. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    the dimples on the body really helped....i couldent belive how easy it was to mount all the clutch things like the master cylinder and the slave cilinder....i figured it would take me forever to figure out where it needs to go.....30 mins later had all the holes drilled and the master cylinder bolted in and clutch pedels in......so all in all it wasent that bad.

    <font color=green>Chaz</font color=green>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/chaz88k5>http://community.webshots.com/user/chaz88k5</a>
     
  9. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    So are you saying that the mechanical linkage setup uses a different pedal than the hydraulic setup does?

    I currently run a mechanical linkage setup for my sm465 and I'm looking into converting to hydraulic.
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I'll jump in and say it's likely. The pedals/brackets themselves are more than likely the same, EXCEPT how the clutch pedal pushrod is setup. The mech one goes through the floor at a 45*(?) angle, while the hydraulic goes straight through the firewall. I just hit this in another post, at best you could use the same "stud" on the clutch pedal for hydraulic, at worst, you'd have to move/modify/add the correct stud.
     

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