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Autolocking to Manual hubs

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by larsfrog, Jun 26, 2004.

  1. larsfrog

    larsfrog Registered Member

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    How difficult and involved is converting your autolocking hubs to manual, I have a 1986 K5 blazer 305? I was thinking of using Warn hubs (#20990) which I think it means that I need the spindle nut coversion kit for 3 hole cap screw auto hubs (#32720)? I am not that technically advanced as most of you answering these questions so please keep that in mind. Basically I am asking can anyone do this or should I pay a trained mechanic to do this for me?
     
  2. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    It is pretty easy. It is the 6 cap bolts, 2-3 snaprings. that is it. If you have snap ring plyer and a dental style pick then the job is even easier.

    Do your current auto hubs only have 3 screws in the outer cap? If it has more then 3 you WILL NOT need the conversion kit even though most places will try and sell you it. If it only has 3 bolts then you need the kit.

    If you don't need the kit then here is how you do it.

    1. Remove the locking hub retaining bolts on the outside of the cap.
    2.Pull Cap off.
    3.Remove the small snapring on the end of the axleshaft. (snapring plyers or whatever you got)
    4.Remove the large snapring (dental pick makes it easy or small screwdrivers, etc)
    5.Screw one of the bolts from the outer cap into the hole in the inner hub body. Use the screw to pull the body out.
    6.Remove the small inner snapring on the axleshaft.
    7.Reinstall new hubs in reverse. DO NOT reinstall the snap ring form step 6 though. Only reinstall the 2 outer snaprings

    That is it.

    Harley

    P.S. the large snapring from step 4 is hard to find if you don't know where it is. The assembly that the locking hub fits into is called the Wheel Hub Assembly (WHA). Run your fingers around the inside of the WHA near the inner locking hub body (after the outer hub cover is removed). There is a metal ring with a gap in a small groove in the WHA near the inner locking hub. This ring is what holds the locking hub in the WHA. You remove it and the locking hub comes out.
     
  3. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Mine did not need the kit either, went in just as easily as Harley said.

    DO NOT overtighten the capscrews , my first set stripped and I had to ruin the hub to get it off, JUST SNUG is perfect /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  4. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    I'm missing something

    I'm sure my auto locking hubs are causing a ticking noise. Sometimes it does it sometimes not. Well I've read as many post as I could here on the subject before attempting to take the auto's off.

    Well, I removed a snap ring that was about 1.5" in diameter(has a small gap in it and it was at end of axle shaft). After removing it, a large spring came out.
    Now I'm at a loss for how to get the rest out. Its a 91 blazer and the hub has five torx bit bolts. Unfortunately my digital camera is broke so I cant take a pic. I notice there are two small round metal ends on the right side of inner hub that can be squeezed together. I think that is the other spring but not sure and not sure if this is the one I have to use a dental pic on.

    Any takers on some help?
     
  5. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    Would definately appreciate a pic or any other help with this. Do the two short pieces of metal(snap ring?) need to be separated and then pull on the hub assembly with the hubcap bolts?
     
  6. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    Not all at once...

    I know I'm close but somehow I'm not getting how to remove one of the snap rings. I've removed the one at end of axle shaft if anyone can help on the other. I understand I need a dental pick. Do I slip the pick in between the part of hub that cap screws run in to and part where the the wheel slips over? :confused:
     
  7. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    [​IMG]

    here is a pic of an auto hub removed.
    Note the large slot in the outer part of the hub.
    When in the vehicle the slot is covered by that piece of metal directly above it in the pic.
    hook a pick or something in the cover and Slide the metal cover out off the slot.
    You will see two round metal pin looking things(acually part of a big snap ring) as shown in the pic.
    You have to squeze the pins together with needle nose. This compresses the snap ring so you can pull off the outer hub. It helps to thread in a bolt or two to use to pull the hub out with.
    Hope this helps
     
  8. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    Thanks alot I really appreciate it.

    I had pulled that chome piece of metal off and could tell the two pieces of metal were "springish" by squeezing them but it just wasn't coming off. I'll try and use some vice grips to hold both of them together and pull with the bolts.

    Thanks again. I appreciate your trouble.

    Tom
     
  9. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    One side done

    Got the Warn Premiums from a local 4x4 shop(ProTrucks). With the search feature on the site, I found out I didn't need the washer that sits in front of wheel lock nut. The new hub has a little in and out play as the Warn instructions suggest. The other side is out(much faster after getting first side done). The wheel lock nut on passenger side was loose and definately not torqued to 160-205 ft lbs(per crappy Haynes book). After I buy a spanner wrench to fit the wheel lock the other side should be a snap.
    Thanks for all the help and the good info on the site.
    Tom
     
  10. tomy

    tomy Registered Member

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    Thanks for replying to this thread. I just finished changing the hubs in my '89.
    I'll road test it over the weekend. I would have been lost without the tips in this thread. I do have a question. Were you able to use the axle retainer ring? I couldn't get it to fit.
     
  11. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    Tomy

    Yeah, I did use the axle retaining ring. Once all was in except the ring and cap, I reached behind the wheel and with a small pry bar, leveraged the knuckle outwards which pushed the shaft back out enough to put the ring on.

    You have to make sure the old retaining ring(snap) and washer are removed or it wont fit when you put the new hub housing in. Good luck
    Tom
     
  12. tomy

    tomy Registered Member

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    Thanks for the tip about prying the shaft out. I was able to use the retaining ring after that. I just road tested it and everything seems to be okay.
     
  13. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    Front Hub Is Very Warm/Hot

    I did the auto to manual hub changeout to Warn Premiums. Have tested them in the sand at the beach and all seems well there.

    Problem- After a hour and a half highway road trip, I noticed one side is hot to the touch(palm of hand touching the front of hub). Is this normal? If not, could it be that the bearing needs to be repacked?
     

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