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Axle and S&W roll cage questions

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by randy88k5, Nov 9, 2004.

  1. randy88k5

    randy88k5 1/2 ton status

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    Hi. I am new to the club, I just joined yesterday. I have a few questions.

    1988 K5, 350 TBI, 700R4, 208, 10b f&r, 2.73s (I know, terrible), 33" BFG AT, etc...

    I still have the 10 bolt axles front and rear. I threw the rear u-joints and cracked the rear slip yoke a few weeks ago while wheelin. I was able to get new joints and the yoke welded together by a friend to get off the trail, but the need for an upgrade is getting greater. I have found a few 14b ff for the rear, but I was originally planning on a D44 swap in the front. Now I'm beginning to think it will be a waste of time and effort, and the added strength not that great when compared to the 10b. Should I just go all the way and try and locate a D60 for the front? I don't do major rockcrawling, but I do negotiate the occasional rock while on the trail. I think the added piece of mind with the d60 would be worth it.

    Also, im looking for a roll bar setup. I found one for a very decent price at S&W Race Cars. An associate there told me he has sold several to CK5 members. Does anyone have some pics of the cage in the vehicle, or any feedback about the product itself?

    Any thoughts? Thanks a lot.
    -Randy
     
  2. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Welcome to the Machine.......................... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. unclematty

    unclematty 1/2 ton status

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    from the looks of your truck you should be OK with a D44, as long as your stayin with 33's I run a D44hd up front and havn't had any trouble yet , I run 36's and spools, plus a big freakin screamin caddy motor, ya should be fine, lest ya do stuff like most of "US" ck5ers do, (get all jiggy with the stupid pedal), Like I got a lotta room to talk /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif it all depends what ya want. keep askin, we luv to answer ????? /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
    also Smittybilt makes a weld in roll cage kit, I have it in my blazer and it's OK, I've added to it to make it a full 8 point (gotta cover the kids seats too) spent about $800.00 total, plus all my welding and measuring /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif
     
  4. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

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    You are not going to gain any strength at all from switch ing out the 10b to the D44, the d60 is the only other option, with 33's you should be ok with the front 10b but the rear migh not if you romb your rig hard enough so the 14bff is the cheap and best choice /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    As for the cage, I plan to order that same one in the next few weeks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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