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Axle & Hub Question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by equalizer, Oct 14, 2003.

  1. equalizer

    equalizer Registered Member

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    stats..72 K5..stock
    (1)If both hubs are locked, are both wheels susposed to turn at the same time or do they turn individualy..dumb question, i know.
    (2)When I was putting back together my hub, wheel bearings etc (basically i had everything out changing my axle u joints, so you get the picture), there was 2 peices that I had to screw in with my hub socket. The first one, if I am correct goes in after the outer wheel bearing. Now, I didn't leave it to tight as it seemed to me that if I tighted it to much then hub/disk break assembly wouldn't move easily enough. So I tightened just enough so that the wheel could still move freely..My question..Is this correct?? Oh, and my outer wheel bearing came out (so I obviously put it back in like this) opposite way to the inner wheel bearing..Meaning, that the outer bearing had the big end towards me, and the inner bearing had the bigger end towards the rear seal..Is this also correct or did I mix them up (its been at least two weeks since it all came out /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
    Thanks for any help guys..I m almost done repacking bearings and changing u joints for the first time..Gone pretty well, just making sure I m still on the right track
    Marc
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    1) won't turn together unless you have a posi or locker up front. wouldn't have a factory one so don't be surprised at all if it doesn't happen.
    2) sorry I'm useless here, need to know this myself.
     
  3. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    1) no they wont, its open..
    2) yes you put the bearings in right..and you put the inner nut on, so it is tight, but still spins free, then the outer nut goes on TIGHT!
     
  4. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    And the little lock ring with the holes in it goes in between the bearings /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. o2bjimmy

    o2bjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Make sure the pin is in one of the holes on the lockring. If not serious wheel wobble will shortly follow along with a locknut that wont stay put
     
  6. B_to_C

    B_to_C 1/2 ton status Author

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    yes, serious wheel wobble which leads to lug nuts and studs shearing off and eventually the entire wheel going down the road in a different direction then you want. this ALMOST happened to me....there were two lug nuts left on, one loosely, by the time i pulled over. make sure to tighten that outer nut TIGHT. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  7. equalizer

    equalizer Registered Member

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    Wild guys, I'm exactly where I should be then...Thanks for all the info. Rock on
     
  8. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    And the little lock ring with the holes in it goes in between the two hub nuts /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Fixed it for you. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  9. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    OK, this is how I do my 10 bolt. I think. I do it so often that I kind of sleepwalk through it. Once you've done it about 10 times you kind of just do it without thinking.

    I don't know if I'm the only one that does it this way but it's what works for me.



    1. Disassemble and grease everything. Don't forget the needlebearings for the spindle either. Inspect seals and replace shady looking ones. Conical bearings can only go in one way and that's with the small ends pointing towards each other in the pair. I usually fill the void half full with grease even though most people say to leave no more grease than necessary in there because all it does is promote insulation of heat. I don't know. I just fill the void half full with grease. My Dad has packed voids full of grease since before he could drive and it hasn't come back to haunt him yet so...

    2. Put hub on.

    3. Spin on the first nut (the one with the pin protruding) until it stops. Slowly tighten it and rotate the rotor at the same time until you reach 50ftlbs with a torque wrench. This "seats" the conical bearings into their races. Don't move the rotor. Loosen the nut until there is little tension on it. Tighten back up to 25ftlbs.

    4. Stick the lockring on there. If it doesn't go on with the pin going through the hole then tighten the nut up until it does while going no more than 3/8 of a turn. You shouldn't have to go more than 1/8 of a turn.

    (The last two steps are backwards of most service manuals. Most manuals say to tighten it up to 35ftlbs and then back it off no more than 3/8s of a turn to get the lockring on. The problem I have found with this is that you end up with loose wheelbearings once in a while. I've pulled my hubs apart a week later and found the two nuts loose even though they shouldn't be able to loosen with them locked together and to the spindle.)

    5. Spin on the locknut and torque it down to 80ftlbs or so. I think most late-model (81-87) ten bolts are supposed to be at like 160ftlbs or something which is kind of insane in my opinion.
     

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