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Axle Re-location...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by dhdescender, Apr 7, 2003.

  1. dhdescender

    dhdescender 1/2 ton status

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    I'm planning to move my Dana 60 1" forward on my K5 blazer to help clear the fenders, and improve approach angle. I have 5-6" susp. lift from stock + 3" body (which I am removing). 38.5" tires.

    I'm running crossover steering, so the fore/aft movement wont be much affected by the move of the axle compared to stock steering.

    I plan to use 3/4" or 1" tapered blocks (there is already a 6* shim in there compensating for a very long shackle), and they will bolt into the spring pack. Probably use mild steel, and machine them on a vertical mill.

    Any thoughts? Basically, I need to know If I should:

    a) Redrill the leaf pack, have 2 center pins in it, drill the U-bolt plate for the old center pin. I have heard this puts more wear on the leaf pack with the extra hole.

    b)create 1" offset taper blocks, at a 6* angle. I have a Vertical milling machine, not hard to do.

    My DS seems to have about 2" more slip left where the axle is presently, so hopfully I wont have to re-tube or get a new 1Ton DS.

    Thanks for any input.
     
  2. BILLY RAY

    BILLY RAY 1/2 ton status

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    I would go with choice a. but only have one center pin not two just pull the other out. The part about making the spring weak is I believe when the old hole is right on the edge of the axle pearch it puts alot off stress in that area so you may try to extend the pearch some how or install some kind of real real short over load spring so the hole is not on the edge of the pearch. Do you know what I mean??? Make sure the over load spring short so you may need to cut it down so it won't effect the flex of the spring. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Kyle,

    You're timing of this question is perfect, as I'm currently going through some "refining" of my front suspension and dealing with angles, and a relocated axle.

    The main thing to remember is that moving the axle forward 1" will move it further "up the smile" of the spring, so there will be a natural DOWN rotation of the pinion as a result. It sounds like you have already put a 6* shim to rotate it back UP because of the long shackles....and odds are that it will require even MORE shimming once the axle moves that 1"....!

    I'm running x-over steering, so the steering arm is a nice flat spot to put the anglefinder to measure caster. Mine ended up at 10* which is about 6* too much....I'll be bolting a 6* shim into the pack to rotate my pinion UP and hopefully get my caster to the correct D60 spec of 4*.

    ANYWAY.....I'll let the other guys comment on the best methods for acutally getting the axle forward, but it sounds like you could need something with around 10* - 12* of correction, so maybe a custom made zero-rate w/ offset could be the ticket for you??? You're going to have to deal with the PS mounting plate bolts also (try spherical washers!) since those 2 bolts are going to be seriously tweaked with that much rotation of the housing..... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     
  4. dhdescender

    dhdescender 1/2 ton status

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    Greg,

    I considered the thought of spherical washers, my other option (which I have presently installed), is to run a shim in the opposite direction to correct the angled spring plate. However, I agree, spherical washers will be best, as two 12* shims will start to stack up. I've been told on another messageboard that redrilling the pack will be "OK" as long as the old center hole is not on the edge of the u bolt plate. I am still weary of drilling, and seeing other companies selling zero-rate style leaves, and having them work sucessfully seems a more viable option to me, as well as adding to the saftey and longtime durability of the spring pack.
     
  5. GMCLegacy

    GMCLegacy 1/2 ton status

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    IMO i think choice B would be the route i would go. Drilling a hole in the springs is permanent, where as a tapered offset block is not. and since you have access to a mill, i would go with choice B.
     
  6. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I drilled new holes in the axle perch and the spring plates. I didnt want to go higher and it seemed to work out well for me.
     

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