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Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35's test drive, and a few pics and P/Ns!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jms, Aug 9, 2003.

  1. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

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    Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics and P/Ns!

    Impressions from a first test drive after the axle surgery, rear disk brake swap, 8-lug conversion, and 35"MTRs:

    1. I like the new looks, lift is 3"TC + ORD shackles//ORD 2.5" shackle flip + ORD zero rate:

    [​IMG]

    Front 10-bolt: caliper backing plates: GM dealer ($89 ea.); hubs/rotors: Autozone ($99 ea; w/races installed); Timken bearings and calipers: Autozone;
    Looked up the caliper support P/N on gmpartsdirect.com; could have gotten them for half, darn.

    2. Rear end is a D60FF out of a '70 Chevy, 4.56 gears, ARB, disk brakes

    [​IMG]

    Just in case you're wondering: brake fluid makes a wonderful floor polish!

    Pedal is really soft; after a few go-stop-go cycles it seems a bit firmer.
    Can't get the rear to lock up, but had that problem before w/ drums.
    Prop valve is InlineTube disk/disk; probably change Master cylinder as well. I think I'll have the shop do that and power bleed the brakes.

    Still chasing a slight air leak, locker works fine; power is good with 4.56/35's; used to have 4.10/33's.

    3. E-brake setup seems to hold fine; bracket cut from 1/4" stainless steel; bolted in, shape needs some work, I want the cable closer to the axle; parking brake indicator light in the dash doesn't go off anymore - any hint where that switch is?

    [​IMG]

    At least I'll be able now to drive it back to the shop to have the front end regeared and the ARB put in (the one from my 10-bolt rear), then I need to deal with shocks and cooling. Enough for today, it's way too hot in the garage by now.
     
  2. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    Looks great!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Did you do all of the work?? What calipers are you using in the rear?
     
  3. fourwheelerjeff

    fourwheelerjeff 1/2 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    very, very nice /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    OMG /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    That rear is what I am trying to iron out right now. Whose disc kit did you use?
    Deal with shocks, whatever do you mean? Relocating them, or just getting longer ones.

    Got any pics of the disc swap?

    ALL information would be appreciated.... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    Aren't you worried about catching your e-brake setup on something?
    BTW: Nice garage floor /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  6. y5mgisi

    y5mgisi 1 ton status

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    im jelous, nice truck, nice house, and nice shop right on man /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. RustBuket

    RustBuket 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    Nice truck and garage! I think you'll enjoy the mods. I know I would!
     
  8. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    I just did the bolt-on stuff - I can't weld, and won't try gears. I did cut the e-brake brackets myself, though. That's why they need some extra work, I suppose.
    The axle was set up by HP Motorsports, a local speed shop, they did spring pads, shock mounts, and the ARB. Axle shafts are 30 spline alloy from Moser. I have a slight vibration from the driveshaft when I coast, maybe I need a shim on the axle or lower the T-case.

    I've used a disk brake kit from Randy Blackbird in WA (sorry, don't have the link handy on this computer).
    I ordered the kit with cadillac calipers; came w/ pads and e-brake lever/spring.

    I had the hubs machined for 9/16 wheel studs at a local machine shop, they also pressed the studs in. The caliper brackets came with 1/2" grade 8 hardware; I drilled the holes on the axle out to 1/2". Mocked up a caliper and found I'd need a 1/8" washer between axle and caliper bracket to get the caliper spaced a bit further outward for an easier fit over the rotor. Instead of 1 1/2" bolts I used 2" long bolts to hold the caliper plate, that way I could bolt on the e-brake cable bracket on the other side. Brake lines are 3/16, 30 inches long, from Napa; 28" would have fit a bit better. I made brake line mounts on the axle using 3" exhaust clamps and plumbing supplies - not exactly elegant but workable for a non-welder like me. Not sure whether that is the final solution but works for now, the line doesn't move. The junction of hard line/hose is held to a little plate (bolted to one of the 2" caliper bracket bolts) with clamps; feels solid for now.

    Biggest grief actually was to get the brake hose to seal at the left rear caliper. I've used '79 Chevette lines (thanks to Grim for the tip in his disk-brake write-up!). What finally worked was cleaning the caliper with a wire wheel, and heating the crush washer with a torch (to soften the copper) before assembly and tightening the banjo bolt (Napa # 82698).

    As for shocks, I need to get longer ones, but not sure which ones. I'd like to stick with Bilsteins (which I ran for the stock suspension), but they don't make shocks specifically for a lifted Jimmy, and I haven't had the chance to twist up the truck w/o shocks to measure. I may put on some cheap ones from Autozone for the time being.
     
  9. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    Yup, that's why I gotta get started on version 1.0 of the cable bracket (I'd call the bracket I have on now a beta version). I think I can tuck the cable a fair amount closer to the axle; not sure what to do about the levers on the caliper, though. I suppose I could rotate the whole assembly so that the caliper is on top instead of behind the axle, and then see whether the Az-Kickin setup could be made to work. For now I'm just happy to see the e-brake setup actually hold the truck.
     
  10. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    That is a lot of useful information. That along with a little more research will allow me to get mine done too....

    Thanx for the reply /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  11. funkycold

    funkycold 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    truck looks really good in the after photo.
    Do you happen to have the part numbers for the - (hubs/rotors: Autozone ($99 ea; w/races installed); Timken bearings and calipers: Autozone)?
    Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif


    <font color="blue">STOCK SUCKS !!!!!!!!!!</font>
     
  12. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    [ QUOTE ]

    3. E-brake setup seems to hold fine; bracket cut from 1/4" stainless steel; bolted in, shape needs some work, I want the cable closer to the axle; parking brake indicator light in the dash doesn't go off anymore - any hint where that switch is?


    [/ QUOTE ]
    That's the problem with the no rear brakes. The prop valve's electrical connector is to trip the same light on the dash as the parking brake. If there is not enough pressure in one circuit then a shuttle valve moves in the prop valve and tripps the light..

    Air is VERY hard to get out of the prop valve rear circuit. Look at the way it's mounted on the crossmember. The line to the rear circuit is angled down and the line in is at the top of the bore.

    Lossen the line IN (top) on the rear circuit a few turns till it starts leaking. Tap on the PV with a wrench to dislodge the air bublbles. Then tighten the line and see if it improves.
    The caddi calipers are also a booger to get bleed . tap on them as well as your trying to bleed. You might want to take the top retaining pin loose so you can tilt it back and forth.

    The fact of the matter is even with the Disc Disc PV you may still have too much rear brakes once you get the air out. FACTORY rear disc runs a smaller disc and smaller pads to help make the front rear braking even. Your running a front pad and a front caliper.
     
  13. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

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    Re: Axle swap/8-lug conversion/35\'s test drive, and a few pics!

    Grim, thanks for the info!
    I unbolted the PV from the crossmember this morning (this is where the ORD steering brace does NOT come in handy!) and spent some time tapping/shaking the PV and bleeding at the right rear. Amazing how much air came out!

    Not sure whether I got all the air out, but the pedal firmed up nicely, parking brake light is gone, and it stops very well /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    BTW, here are a few part numbers:

    Caliper backing plate: GM 14023421 and 14023422
    front 8-lug hub-rotor assembly at Autozone: AIMCO 55005
    wheel bearings at Autozone: Timken inner LM104949; inner race: JLM104910 (didn't need that, hubs had races installed); axle seal 471271; Timken outer SET45 (includes the race)
    calipers at Autozone: FENCO C528 and C529 (strange, online catalog sez it ought to be C530 and 531)
    pads at Autozone: MKD153
     

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