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axle wrap bars

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by ZK5, Dec 21, 2003.

  1. ZK5

    ZK5 1/2 ton status

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    Steve, When do you think you will have these axle wrap bars perfected enough to sell as a kit? I seem to remember you saying that it was in the works but it's been a while and I havent seen or heard any mention of them.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    We have some of the parts in stock now, so we could set you up pretty quick. We have some improvements since we build mine too, slicker mounting brackets, etc.
     
  3. cegusman

    cegusman 3/4 ton status

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    What do they cost?
     
  4. big pappa b

    big pappa b 3/4 ton status

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    Hopefully less than $850 /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
     
  5. skratch

    skratch 1/2 ton status

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    What would need to be done in order to run those on a Burb. My rear end always feels like it's in a world of it's own!
     
  6. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Cost: roughly $250 to $300. That can vary depending on what we do for an adjustable end. They will require welding on the axle, and maybe on the frame. Really, the big trick is getting the length right to work with the different leaf springs, brackets from there are pretty easy.
     
  7. cegusman

    cegusman 3/4 ton status

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    How soon will you be ready to start taking orders for them?
     
  8. alaskanbowtie

    alaskanbowtie 1/2 ton status

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    AH HAH, I found another article about these bars and I'm sure from the other forums post there are lot's of us guys wanting these type traction bars. So if there are alot of us wanting them that should help with the price?? Maybe even 200.00 /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif Just testin the waters /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
     
  9. shaun

    shaun 1/2 ton status

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    I need a set. How well with these work with flex? Or how easy would they be able to be made into quick disconnects /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  10. Hardcore

    Hardcore 1/2 ton status

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    Steve, why not mount the bars on top of the axle so they would be in tension under axle wrap? It would bring them up and away from the ground and still control axle hop. Never understood why everyone mounts them under the axle in compression /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  11. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Bars in compression on the underside keeps the leafs in tension which creates decent triangulation of the diff. Having the spring in tension under acceleration will tend to keep them straighter, reducing wrap.

    Bars on top offers almost no triangulation...so would be nearly useless. That's why you don't see single bar systems with the bar on top of the axle.

    Rene
     
  12. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Bars on top offers almost no triangulation...so would be nearly useless. That's why you don't see single bar systems with the bar on top of the axle.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What about other companies? I know ORD won't bash another companies products, but is the single bar design really useless? I was also considering going inboard on the rear shocks. Would the traction bars help at all with lateral movement. With crossover steering up front and no swaybar, I was concerned with excessive sway having inboard shocks in the rear to boot....
    [​IMG]
     
  13. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    That's not what Rene was talking about. What he was calling a "single bar system" is really a "single mount on each end" which requires some other "link" (springs or another bar) for triangulation to restrict rotation of the axle. The pic you posted has a single bar, but it is self triangulated due to the 3 mounting points and does not require the strings to participate in controlling the axle wrap. Totally different design...
     
  14. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    Bars on top offers almost no triangulation...so would be nearly useless. That's why you don't see single bar systems with the bar on top of the axle.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What about other companies? I know ORD won't bash another companies products, but is the single bar design really useless? I was also considering going inboard on the rear shocks. Would the traction bars help at all with lateral movement. With crossover steering up front and no swaybar, I was concerned with excessive sway having inboard shocks in the rear to boot....
    [​IMG]


    [/ QUOTE ]

    The single bar system the way the pic in the post showed would be effective (the ORD pic), the MOO bar is triangulated at the diff, and I certainly wasn't bashing anyone's product.

    Traction bars will do nothing to help with lateral control, or sway. Inboarding the shocks will decrease lateral stability in the rear much the same as removing the sway bar up front does.

    Rene
     
  15. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    Is there any other option to compensate for the inboard shock setup to decrease lateral movement? What about the ORD traction bars but then a lateral bar running from the frame on one side to the other side of the axle?
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Is there any other option to compensate for the inboard shock setup to decrease lateral movement? What about the ORD traction bars but then a lateral bar running from the frame on one side to the other side of the axle?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    1. Stiffer springs will help control lateral roll.

    2. A panhard bar will not help your situation any and is unnecessary with leaf springs in most cases.
     
  17. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Oops, missed the question about sway control earlier. Several options that come to mind.

    Get long travel shocks through the floor and mount them vertical rather than angle to the center.

    Kick them forward along the rails (like mine) instead of to the center. Over all effective increase is less but there is better body control. I get plenty of travel and decent body control too. In this case you only loose effective dampening due to mechanical advantage of the axle/body. So you want stiffer shocks than normal, but you don’t have the body effectively rocking across the mounting point (eliminating all control of flex/roll) like kicked in shocks do.

    Get one of the adjustable long travel anti-sway bars marketed for off-road use. This is what Stephen uses combined with the adjustability of multi-coil tunable coil-overs.
     
  18. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    Through the body shocks are out for me since I need all the room in the back I can use for gear. What about those kicker shocks? If I went inboard, but threw on some kicker shocks and mounted them at a 45 degree angle? I had also planned on adjustable shocks that I could stiffen up for road use, and soften up for trail use. As for the aftermarket sway bar, I would go for that. Stephen, if you read this, did you use the ORU swaybars, do they have the disconnect on them, and are you running them with crossover steering? I'm assuming we are talking a front mounted swaybar.
     
  19. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Combining inboard and kicked forward would give you some control over the body, but the combined dampening for straight up/down would be rather harsh I would think. I would (and did) go with 1 and use a stiff shock to overcome the loss of effective dampening.

    And I was talking about a rear sway bar. Look at some pics of Wally and you should be able to see it... This is the best way of all since it gives you tune ability and true "control" of body roll rather than just dampening the rate of change/rebound/overshoot.
     
  20. alaskanbowtie

    alaskanbowtie 1/2 ton status

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    how much $$$$$$ and do they limit flex? I assume they don't since your using them personally???? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     

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