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axle yoke question

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Nov 2, 2002.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    I almost feel like this is a stupid question, but I want to ask to verify before I go too nuts.

    is the yoke the same off a front 10B axle and rear 10B axle? (I'm assuming the answer to that question is yes). also - if I swap this yoke what are the torque spec's for the not on that thing???

    thanks,

    Jeff
     
  2. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Jeff
    If you have a Haynes Manual page 8-11 part 22 talks about the replacement of the Pinion seal witch should be what your looking for. you'll a Inch pound toque wrench other than that it looks to be easy.

    Eric
     
  3. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    The inch pound thing is for testing how much torque it takes to turn the pinion. That's not too necessary. The thing to do is mark where the nut is in comparison to the pinion - scratch or center punch them, also count the number of threads visible above the nut. Then, upon reassembly, put on some lock-tite, and tighten the nut back down so the same number of threads is visible, and your punch marks are lined up. I go a little further than that for safe measure. You're not going to hurt anything.
     
  4. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    thanks guys...

    is that a confirmation that the 10 yokes are the same then? (I can put a 10B yoke off a front axle on a rear?)
     
  5. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    I don't see why not Jeff.
     
  6. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    I would have to disagree here.
    I did exactly that a couple of years and I didn't use the inch lb torque wrench, and I tried to match th eposition of the nut with a 1/8 turn extra and I ended up toasting my bearings in 3 months.
    You need to go through all the steps mentionned, and actually it is recommended you change the crush sleve inside.
    It's not a reusable thing, every time you take the yoke off you have to crush a new one and get the preload set.
    Unless you don't care about your diff /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    FYI - these yokes are not the same... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif found that out the hard way.

    front u-joints are much smaller then the rear one.
     
  8. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    I tried to match th eposition of the nut with a 1/8 turn extra and I ended up toasting my bearings in 3 months.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    1/8 turn extra will put a LOT more preload on the bearings than what was originally there. If you reuse the nut and crush sleeve (just replacing the oil seal), you need to put the nut back exactly as it came off.
     
  9. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    There is a thread going on about the same thing and someone already did it and he has some numbers that should work.
    I would never rely on a position.
    It's always about pressure and the best way to know is torque reading of the drag.
    Check it out.
    12 bolt pinion
     

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