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Axlewrap

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by zrobbinsk5, Dec 16, 2000.

  1. zrobbinsk5

    zrobbinsk5 Registered Member

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    I have a 4" superlift, blocks in the back on a 1983 k5. I'm having a bit of an axlewrap problem, or im assuming that thta's what it is. Last time at the beach, I had a lot of hop in the rear end in the sand. Today as I was leaving work, I spotted a Blazer with the exact same setup as mine, as I was walking by, I noticed that there were shocks mounted from the front shackle of the rear leaf springs to the top of the u-bolt plate on the rear axle. My only thought is that it was an attempt to control axle hop, I left a note on the windshield for a phone call or an email, is this an effective remedy, or does it just look like one? All of the traction bar setups I've seen on Blazers either kill ground clearance, ride quality, or both. What can I do?
     
  2. fr8train

    fr8train 1/2 ton status

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    The problem is your rear blocks themselves. Traction bars do limit the ground clearance but they do away with this problem. You do have a great alternative to it though. ORD has a rear shackle flip kit that will be the same cost as the ladder bars and give you a 4" lift. There is a article here in the K5 site. Our grand master( ColoradoK5) has installed them on his and most of the guys here have put it in too. And there is a forum to ask the owner(?) of the company any questions.
     
  3. EDdaTREE

    EDdaTREE 1/2 ton status

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    The 4 inch block gives the axle leverage to bend your springs when you gas it. I would lose the block and do a shackle flip...you end up with a 4 inch lift with no block to promote wheel-hop.

    "I'm not stuck...I just dropped my beer in my lap"
     
  4. EDdaTREE

    EDdaTREE 1/2 ton status

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    You don't necessarily have to shell out for the kit, either. Lots of guys have just done the flip with just torches and welders...basically, you make a hole in the bottom of the shackle bracket so that the shackle points down instead of up and then gusset(brace) between the bracket and frame. Then ya usually go with a degree shim and MAYBE drop the t-case a bit.

    "I'm not stuck...I just dropped my beer in my lap"
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    It would seem to be that easy, the home job shackle flip I mean. But Stephen brought up some good points and rightfully withheld some critical dimensions. Imagine dropping the rear of your spring down 8". The end of the spring is moving in an arc. Your stock mount is still in the same place. So if you just cut a hole in the stock mount and flip your shackle you're gonna have a problem. The shackle angle will likely be too straight, and might flip the wrong way under droop. This would suck.[​IMG]
    This shackle angle is not rocket science, and that sweet angle where everything works is the information ORD worked hard to find. The more I think about it the better a deal the shackle flip kit from ORD is. I fabricate for a living so building a flip kit is not a problem, but do I want to spend the time making a set just to find out I'm a little off with my shackle angle? Its going to be a labor intensive job, I just don't want to add to the labor and maybe find out I didn't get it right the first time.
    As for modifying my present rear hangers? I don't believe thats a viable or strong alternative to ORD's kit.

    Just my humble opinion.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  6. zrobbinsk5

    zrobbinsk5 Registered Member

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    I really appreciate it guys. My problem is that I'm still in high school and my parents don't let me play with welding machines in the driveway, (damn, it sucks). How much dough should I be looking to shell out to have this kind of thing done?, I can deal with putting the shims under the rear springs. I don't like the idea of lowering my transfer case though, due to the damned crossover exhaust. Thanks.
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    The shackle flip kit from ORD doesn't require any welding. Check out the review in "Product Reviews" this will give you a much better idea of what is involved.
    Then say goodbye to axlewrap.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  8. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    By the way, what you saw on that other truck is worthless. I put that shock set up on my first 79, didn't help things a bit, just looks cool. Cost me about $100 for nothing.......Can't remember the "name" of that product, but that is only due to my brain having a black hole at the moment........ah, that's right "Kicker Shocks".

    If you are fairly mechanically inclined, a shackle flip is pretty easy. Other alternative is replacing the rear springs in your rig with 4" lift rear springs.......there are a few guys (myself included) that are not sold on the shackle flip (AZBLAZER is one that went with 4" rear springs and Velvet Ride shackles). Myself, not sure what to do.........the only negative I hear about the shackle flip is it moves your axle forward (?) a couple of inches in the wheelwell........and it is noticeable from the photo posted a week or so ago. Do a search on Shackle Flip or just read, read, read..............lots to learn on this site.

    <font color=black>'79 - 406 TPI -<font color=orange> K5#5 - <font color=blue>See it at---&gt;http://www.blazzinor.coloradok5.com
     
  9. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Loweing your transfer case is easy. It takes about 20 minutes. If you look at where your transfer case crossmember bolts to the frame, there shoul be a spacer either inside the framerail or between the crossmember and teh head of the bolt. All you need to do is to put this spacer between the frame and the crossmember and you've lowered your transfer case. Your transfer case is bolted to the crossmember, or it should be. Check to see that it is bolted down. I looked at mine last week and it wasn't It didn't cause axlewrap, but a lot of slop in the drivetrain, especially when floored (banging on the floor)

    90K5
     
  10. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>With a 4" lift, theres no way of getting around dropping the t-case. Like 90K5 said, its just a few spacers</font color=blue>
     
  11. zrobbinsk5

    zrobbinsk5 Registered Member

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    My problem with lowering the transfer case lies in the clearance of the exhaust crossover pipe by the front driveshaft.
     

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