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B_to_C! How was it...?

Discussion in 'Rocky Mountain Region' started by firefighter184, Nov 17, 2005.

  1. firefighter184

    firefighter184 1/2 ton status

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    Swapping the truck cab onto your Blazer? I'm really thinking about trying it, hopefully with you and the rest of the guys' help if it can be done fairly easily with the right guys and gear.
     
  2. B_to_C

    B_to_C 1/2 ton status Author

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    Dude...EASY.

    Took four or five days max to have it drivable again. The biggest pain is the wiring with a computer. Frizzlefry did his swap to a carbed truck and had it in and out in one day (he was using a shop though). I assume you saw the thread HERE ? It is a really straightforward process. The only fabbing needed is the rear cab body mount bracket, and you could just copy what I did, it seems to be workign fine. And if you want to make the blazer seats work then you need to make mounts for those. (my mounting system is dead-simple).

    Went soemthing like this:

    Day 1: remove blazer body
    Day 2: figure out bracket for cab, mount cab
    Day 3: start on wiring, paint cab
    Day 4: wiring, install blazer windshield
    Day 5: wiring + making a bracket to mount blazer seats in truck...drive home!

    And of course any help you need all of us are here to support you. I know that this would have never happened without Scotts help and generous donation of his equipment and time. I have no problem "paying it forward" :thumb:
     
  3. mrk5

    mrk5 The Sticker Guy Moderator Vendor GMOTM Winner Author

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    Now getting the flatbed built, that was a different matter.

    You know that truck like it is now will look so much better with 40" MTRs. :D :wink1:
     
  4. B_to_C

    B_to_C 1/2 ton status Author

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    Agreed. But I'm worried more about on-road performance with those (lack of ummmph with 4.56's) If someone would lend me some 37" MTRs maybe I could finally determine once and for all what the next step will be. :wink1: :deal:
     
  5. firefighter184

    firefighter184 1/2 ton status

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    I'm thinking with a p/u cab instead of the blazer body, a D60 rear and 44 front (8lug of course) that I'll be able to run 37s all day. I'm pretty sure I could run 35s on the 10 bolts all day if I took all that weight off. Depending on time, I'm thinking I'd like to do this in February or early March.
     
  6. B_to_C

    B_to_C 1/2 ton status Author

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    Sounds like a plan John... gonna do anything behind the cab (dog pen maybe? :haha: ). Just a heads up, I have spring break from March 27-31 if you want some uninterupted help and haven't managed to pull it together by then.

    Do you have a line on a cab yet or are you in the process of looking?

    And FYI, Scott and I figured out that with the crazy amount of steel we slapped onto the back of mine it wieghs essentially the same as the blazer body did :rolleyes: But weight wasn't one of my concerns...just wanted it to be bad-ass really :D . Oh and I will tell you that driving around with no weight on the rear leaves was a pain in the kidneys! :eek1: I have 4" lift leaves though...your's may not be as bad, but be prepared to take a leaf out or something if you're not going to put any weight behind the cab.
     
  7. BLZN4FN

    BLZN4FN 1/2 ton status

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    Ok John,
    Help me out here. What do you want to do with the K5 as in trails? Are you looking to do Spring creek,chinamans,twin cone,Bill more lake? kinda trails or what do you have in mine?.

    If it were me I would get a 14 bolt with 4:10-4:56 gears from Colorado auto or pull and save.
    Cost about 125.00 Detroit locker mail order about 350.00 dont worry about how the rear brakes and drums look. About X-mas time I will be going to rear disk if you lend a hand with the swap I will give you the rear brake setup off my 14 bolt.

    As for the Ft end your not going to gain much by going Dana 44 vs 10 bolt.
    Call Burblover and see who bought my/your old 3/4 ton 8 lug 10 bolt with locker See if they still have it. And may want to sell it back to you.

    If your plans are doing trails as listed above a 14/10 bolt setup will work just fine you can run tires up to 37" Trust me on this I have do it for years and never had any problems.

    As for the body swap I dont have any usefull input on this. I would like to do a S-10 cab or a 1935-37 cab,hood and nose on a K5 frame with a cool flat bed. But that is a lot of fab work.

    Just think what trails you want to do and get the rig setup for them. As time goes on you want to do harder trails then step up to a D60 and 42's But buy then you have the basics down and your not spending more money on the thing you have already done.
    Keeps the buld up prosses short and keeps the Wife happy

    But then agine I have not wheel'd mine in about a year :mad:
     
  8. firefighter184

    firefighter184 1/2 ton status

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    Bo, the only reason I was thinking about the 44 swap was becuase of the 8-lug and matching gears. I figure if I can run Spring Creek, Chinamans, etc, I'll be happy for now. The hard part I think, money-wise, is going to be getting gearing for the bigger tires. I'm sure I can find a 14b with 4.56s, but I'll probably have to regear the front. If I'm going to run 37s, that's going to be a mandatory thing, because my 3.73s a bit doggy now with 33s.

    Nick, I'll be looking for a cab after the 1st of the year. I'm thinking a flatbed that would only be as wide as the frame, something simple like 1/4" steel plating over a square tubed framework.
     
  9. mrk5

    mrk5 The Sticker Guy Moderator Vendor GMOTM Winner Author

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    If you get lucky like me, you can find a matching d44/14bolt with 4.56gears. They came out of a pre-75 3/4ton. I'm going to keep the 14bolt as a spare.

    I ran my 37s for a while with 3.73 gears. Not the greatest, but with enough motor it was liveable. B_to_C did nothing but bitch about it the week he drove my truck though. He's used to 35s on 10" rims with 4.56 gears.

    Now that I have the 4.56 gears, it is much more responsive. Actually caught Nicole by surprise launching from a stop sign.

    Here's my input. If you are keeping the 700R4 and regearing regardless, I would look at minimum 4.88 ratio. That being said I personally wouldn't go lower than 4.56 if you keep the 10bolts. They'd be stressed enough as it is.

    I like the 4.56 with my TH400 because I can still run 65mph and keep the RPMs under 3000. Honestly I don't feel like I should be running by big ass tank down the road any faster than that anyways.

    I know I've got the 14bolt, but if ever step up to a beefier rearend I would actually look for a D60. I like that they are stronger with loosing as much ground clearance. If I do put the 14bolt in, I'm going to shave it first.

    That's the biggest thing I love about my setup now with the 37s and D44/12bolt, ground clearance. I spent all that money on the BTF and Crane covers, and since getting the 37s I haven't hit them once.
     
  10. B_to_C

    B_to_C 1/2 ton status Author

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    'Tis true... :haha:
     
  11. mrk5

    mrk5 The Sticker Guy Moderator Vendor GMOTM Winner Author

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    I knew that would get you attention.

    You know I'm planning my front axle swap next month. If you could see your way fit to get your happy ass up here, you could try out those 37s for a day. Since I'll have the fronts off anyways.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2005
  12. B_to_C

    B_to_C 1/2 ton status Author

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    Nice...the past half hour I've been looking at prices...I just about passed out. about $1300 for 37's and $1800 for 40's :yikes: How about I just start whoring myself out now and start saving up.
     

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