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Bad Brakes

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Donovan, Sep 4, 2000.

  1. Donovan

    Donovan 1/2 ton status

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    I would like to know if all the early blazer had bad brakes or what am I doing wrong. I have a 73 and since the day it was new it has had bad brakes. (My parents bought it new in 73) The brake pedal goes down about half way and just stops but you keep going. I don't care how hard I step on the brakes, I don't think I could lock them up. I ask my dad about this and he said it has been this way since new. They also had a 71 blazer that stop just as bad. I put a larger master cylinder and it didn't help. I have read in the Motors Manual about the proportioning valve that it may need the nipple on the end of the valve to be pulled out or pushed in? Does this make any since to anyone? Do I need to do this to the valve while bleeding the brakes? I would like to find this problem out because I have a friend with a 73 blazer and it stops just like mine.

    Donovan
     
  2. Jason73K5

    Jason73K5 1/2 ton status

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    My '73 stops just fine with 35's and pulling a trailer. I'd say that you have something wrong with your setup.
     
  3. Donovan

    Donovan 1/2 ton status

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    Any suggestion on what else to do?


    Donovan
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    My bud is fighting with his 72 right now for the same symptoms. My 75 stops good. There is a button on the end of the proportiong valve that is supose to be pressed to bleed the rears. I have done it without pressing the button but using a vacume set up available at most parts stores. I would start by trying to adjust your rear brakes. The rears have the most effect on the peddle. When you adjust them they need to have a slight drag that you can hear and feel when you spin the wheel. If you have trouble getting the drums off (I mean lots of trouble a little trouble is normal) then you need to have the drums turned because they have a lip hanging the shoes. If that doesn't help I would do a full brake job with new wheel cylinders in the back ($10 most parts stores) and freash calipers in the front ($12 at pepboys.) Also make sure none of the drums or disc's are turned beyond spec. Also inspect the lines at the wheels. If you have a bad line that is expanding when pressure is applied it will cause a loss of pressure and a loss of braking force. If in doubt get new ones, if they are original to the truck you should be in doubt. I'm using the Rayspestos Gold pads and I can lock my trucks down at will. One has 32's and one has 31's. I have noticed that I have to manualy adjust my rear breaks when I have gone through mud. the mud and dirt causes them to wear faster than the auto adjuster can keep up with.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     
  5. LAZYMON

    LAZYMON 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    My 73 stops pretty good for a big heavy truck. But my right rear seems to lock up too easy and cause a slide. I could use some new tires I guess.

    73 Topless Blazer
     
  6. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    My right rear locks up first on my '73 as well. Interesting. After much trying and limited success I finally took my K5 to Midas and got a new master cylinder and had them bleed the brakes as well. It cost a little more, but saved a big headache and got a warranty. BTW, it took two guys over an hour to bleed the brakes on it. Keep in mind these are guys that do this for a living and could do a normal car in about 10 minutes by my gestimation.
    Of course, if you never try to do it yourself, you'll never know how much fun it can be.
     
  7. LAZYMON

    LAZYMON 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    So Goose did all that work fix your right rear from locking up first?

    73 Topless Blazer
     

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