Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Bad Vibrations!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by highrlr, Jan 26, 2005.

  1. highrlr

    highrlr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2004
    Posts:
    302
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bismarck, ND
    I just finished installing a ORD 4 inch shackle flip with 4" front springs and took it out for a drive and holy chit! This thing has such a bad vibration it could rattle your teeth out, it starts right after you start moving and doesnt seem to calm down at all till you get up around 40-45 and it still does it then just not as bad, oh and it prettty much goes away if you let off the gas and coast. Does this sound like it could be a drive shaft issue, it would hafta be the rear since the front one is not on right now. I talked to someone at ORD and they didnt think it would be the driveshaft with only 4"s of lift but I dont know what else it could be? Oh and do you guys think the stock front driveshaft will be sufficiant with a 4"? Thanks for any input.
     
  2. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2001
    Posts:
    16,217
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Mesa , Arizona USA
    It sounds like a driveshaft to me . After my lift and flip it did the same thing . I run a CV , but you may want to shim it , depends on what you want and can afford .

    The front shaft on mine seems to be working fine with 4 inches as far as length goes . One problem I have is now that my springs have softened a little it is grinding my crossmember on flex when I have the swaybar disconnected . :k5: :k5:
     
  3. highrlr

    highrlr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2004
    Posts:
    302
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bismarck, ND
    The guy at ORD also told me I could run a cv driveshaft or do a slip yoke eliminator which I plan on doing eventually, but I will be swapping in a 14bff in a few months and dont want to get a new drive shaft again when i do this, so for now the cheapest fix would be the best! The angle at the pinion looks pretty good, but the one at the slip yoke is a little steep maybe, but shims wouldnt do anything to fix this would they? I have an angle guage, what angles should I measure and how do I know what is acceptable?
     
  4. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2001
    Posts:
    16,217
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Mesa , Arizona USA
    You could always buy a 1350 CV , run a rear conversion ( 1350 to your current axle , most people run it from their current shaft to a 14 bolt ) joint backwards , then put in the 1350 u-joint when you install your 14 bolt :thinking:
     
  5. highrlr

    highrlr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2004
    Posts:
    302
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bismarck, ND
    Thats a good idea, I actually thought of it also while laying under my truck pondering on what could be causing this. The only problem I can forsee is that since the 14bolt is so much larger than the 10bolt that I may then need a shorter shaft again? How much do you think a cv shaft would cost?
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2001
    Posts:
    16,217
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Mesa , Arizona USA
    You'd have to call for prices , try High Angle . Measure from the end of output shaft to yoke on axle before you call , the more you know beforehand helps .

    I couldn't say if its needs shorter or not :k5: :k5:
     
  7. highrlr

    highrlr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2004
    Posts:
    302
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bismarck, ND
    Is there a cheap and easy way to lower the t-case a little bit to see if that would help? The last thing I want to do is hang that thing lower than it already is but if I could try it and see if that helped the problem for now and then I could put it back later when im ready for a cv shaft or SYE when I do my axle swap that would be ideal.
     
  8. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2001
    Posts:
    16,217
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Mesa , Arizona USA
    You could try . Personally , my own opinion ( you will find some guys will and some won't ) I wouldn't , I need that up so its out of harms way :k5: :k5:
     
  9. redneckdude

    redneckdude 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2004
    Posts:
    578
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Augusta, GA
    I had the SAME problem after my shackle flip. I got some 4 degree shims and it didn't help much...lowered the T-case the next weekend and it made a ton of difference. I plan on tucking it back up and doing the SYE and all that later on, but i needed my truck now and can't afford all that yet, so i just moved the spacers fron below the crossmember to above it and it made all the difference in the world...only took about an hr too. Id recommend it for a temp fix, but do get a SYE and all that down the road.
     
  10. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2001
    Posts:
    16,217
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Mesa , Arizona USA
    I couldn't afford it either , I threw it on a card . Pay those every tax return :D
     
  11. highrlr

    highrlr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2004
    Posts:
    302
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bismarck, ND
    Thats exactly what i was thinking of doing, i think ill try it tonight. Now by lowering the t-case that is gonna tilt the whole engine,tranny combo with it so do you have to worry about the rear of the engine or distributor laying into the firewall? My factory spacers that are bellow the xmember are probably about 3/4"-1" long, should I chop em in half or can the whole setup be dropped that much with no troubles? I Also want everything up as far as possible but right now my cards already have way too much on them and im pretty tapped for cash and this truck is my daily driver so i think this would be the cheapest, easiest option for me. I will definately put it back to where it was and hopefully clock it and build a full skid plate when I do the SYE and axle swap.
     

Share This Page