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Ball joint install...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, Dec 5, 2000.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    ANybody know how tight the knuckle should be with new ball joints? I just put on new upper and lower. MAN they are tight. I torqued everything according to the instructions. I mean you have got to grab ahold of this thing to turn it. If this is they way they are supposed to be, then I'm lucky Im not dead compared to the old ones.

    Don't you buy no ugly truck!
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  2. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    there is supose to be some drag on them. You did lube them right? Once you get that upper in and the axle shaft you cannot get at it to lube again in any easy way. Sounds like you need to invest in a shop manual. Even the Haynes cheap o has the speck for what it normal on the ball joints. You take a scale simular to a fish scale and measure the amount of pull needed to make the knuckle turn. It was something like 25inlb I think but double check that. That is adjusted by the threaded sleave in the top of the knuckle....you know the one you didn't replace cause NOBODY sell the tool LOL. That sleave is supose to be torqed to something like 50ftlb then check the knuckle drag and back off if needed.
    Now one thing I have found wrong with the Haynes manual is they list the wrong torq spec for the 6 spindle to knuckle bolts. They list 25ftlb it should be 45ftlb.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
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  3. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok ,GRim. I used the instructions that came with the ball joints them selves. And they said to torque the sleeve to 70 ft lbs, which I did, the grease fitting on these are sticking out to the side so it clears the axle joints. And yes, I crammed them full of high temp mutli-purpose grease. I can try backing the sleeve off till its a little looser. But Im serious, This thing is TIGHT. LOL!! 20 inch lbs, it might be 20 ft lbs if not more.

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  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Hmmm I know that sleave was only listed as 50ftlb in Haynes. when I did mine I didn't have the gage but at 50 there was some drag (tierods off) but I could move it without much trouble. Now it may be that those ball joints have a higher spec but it should turn with reasonable effort not be difficult to turn.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     
  5. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    I'll re torque it tonight to 50 and let you know tomorrow. The guy told me these were MOOGs heavy duty application ball joints. So that may have something to do with it. But I don't think it should be that hard to turn. Thanks for the insite.

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  6. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The ball joint spanner tool can be bought, you just have to really look to find 'em. Chase down a Snap-On or Mac tools truck. Those guys have 'em.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com
     
  7. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    I have the spanner socket. It cost me 21 bones. Thats what I used to torque the adjustment sleeve. Problem is, that the directiosn that came with the ball joint said torque it to 70 ft.lbs. But it feels way to tight. The damn knuckle barely turns. You have to grip it like you torquing the damn u-bolts to 110 lbs. Going to re-torqur them to 50 tonight and see what kinda difference it makes.

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  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The Snap-On ball joint spanner socket is part number S9613. List price is $14.50 (A bargain compared to most of their other prices!) [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
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  9. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    my sleeves were torqued to 50 ft lbs also (Borg Warner HD type). The knuckle was tight to turn but not that tight.
    I believe the bottom nut was 65, then the sleeve to 50, then the top nut to 100 ft lbs in that order.
     
  10. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, you all think the torque specs that came with the ball joint are better or the ones that came with the truck? The sheet with the ball joint said 70 for the lower, then 70 for the sleeve and 100 for the top. But you know the funny thing is, last night I went to loosen the sleeve and the damn spanner socket crumbled into 4 pieces. Think I might get that snap-on one.

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  11. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Anybody know if I need to relieve the pressure from the ball-joint stud on the sleeve before I try to loosen the sleeve. I noticed the sleeve as a gap in it thus it would expand as the tapped goes in deeper. (starting to osunds sexual here). MAybe that is the reason my socket broke. Man that means I gotta take the hub and bearings, spindle, axles and all that jazz back off again. Well, least I'll be a pro at it. LOL!!! (crying now)

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  12. DMK

    DMK 1/2 ton status

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    Tighten adjusting sleave to get 25lbs of pull from the knuckle using a fish scale. Do both sides with tie rod disconnected. The torque rating is for the retaining nut.
     
  13. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Nah, I re-read the instructions from the haynes manual and the ones that came with the ball joint. They are the same except that the sleeve torque is different by 20 lbs. So I did the driver side last night and I step torqed the sleeve, 1st to 25, was a little tight then to 50 pretty damn tight. Then I torqued the top nut to 100 as directed, then the knuckle got a lot looser, but felt perfect. So I took the top nut off and went ahead and put another 20 on it, bringing to 70, then the top nut to 100. And whaa laaa, the driver side knuckle is perfect. Why would the passenger side have reacted so differently? The driver side felt like it seated itself or settled as I was torquing the top nut. Which the passy side did not. Im going to try and tap the top ball joint on the passy side tonight and see if it settles at all, if not take it all back apart and start over.

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
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