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Ball Joint replaceent on an 85

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by cederic, Aug 21, 2001.

  1. cederic

    cederic Registered Member

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    I'm replacing the ball joints on my 85 K5.
    I stumbled on an adjusting nut on top of the upper.
    Chiltons reassembly instructions say to lift and torque the bottom ball joint and them torque this upper adjusting nut.
    Easy enough... except that it takes a spanner socket.
    Anyone know where I can get one?
    I'd like to think that since I didn't move the adjusting nut that I can just go back together without messin with it.
    Anyone have experience with this?
    Thanks

    [image]http://www.animationcity.net/gifz/hand.gif[/image]

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  2. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    I bought mine at CarQuest auto parts. YOu can get them from the Snap-on man as well. You may be able to get one at the Zone or Napa or some other bigger chain like that.
    But yes, you need to get remove it because the new ball joint needs to be adjusted so that you have the proper ball-joint pre-load which is somewhere in the area of 20 inch pounds.
    hope this helps. Let me know if you need more info!

    Just say no to crack(s)
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  3. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    20 inch pounds ? Something sound fishy.
    Please explain.
     
  4. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, to clear this up so we dont get off on the wrong track with the "facts" issue!![​IMG]
    You need to torque the adjustment sleeve according to the specs that come with the new ball-joint instructions.
    However, Once the ball joints and knuckle are installed adn ready for the spindle and all the other stuff the knuckle needs to have "about" 20 inch pounds of resistance to move it.
    Less my recolection fails me.
    Is that sufficient for your "Facts" Exey? Please feel free to enlighten us if there is anything I missed or miss quoted![​IMG]

    What is and what should never be....
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  5. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    I got mine from Mac, but just about every good parts house carries them - Napa's tools are the same as Matco, for a smaller price.

    Dos mas Tecates!!!
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  6. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    By goerge I think that's about right !
    Sure is different than your first post.
    Yup pre-load and dynamic resistance are related .
    Is than 20 with the spindles and axle shafts/tie rods installed ?
     
  7. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Nothing attached! IS this a test?[​IMG]

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  8. blazin72

    blazin72 1/2 ton status

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    I agree with everyone else you can get the spanner socket anywhere.
    As far as the torque my book says 50 ft lbs but mines a 72 model. and it also gave me a new one of those in the ball joint kit dont use your old one.
    I just did mine Sunday.
    what fun but it does help the steering.


    Blazin 72
    1972 K5 350 vortec, 4 inch lift, with nothing else important.
     
  9. coopertwpk

    coopertwpk 1/2 ton status

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    go with 5oft lbs otherwise you have to dimantle the whole tie rod assembley that 20 spring lbs they want is from a wieght measuring guide (like to weigh fish)

    88k5 silverado w4"lift <font color=orange>d44 and corp14ff</font color=orange> with 4.56s
     
  10. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I had a hard time finding the spanner socket and coulden't wate for it to get shipped to me....So I made my own. I used a deep 1/2 drive impact socket and grinded it down with a cut off wheel till it fit right. It ended up being alot cheeper but it took me about a hour to make.

    You will also need a 1-5/16" socket (I could only find one in 3/4" drive so I also had to get an adapter).

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
     
  11. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    the ones for my 83 said to torque at 50 lbs but a good wrench mechanic said to set them flush with the top of the knuckle, whichever comes 1st.

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  12. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    I just went through this last month, good luck on the friggin spanner tool!!!!!! I went everywhere, dealer (with the GM tool number), snap-on man, part shops, friggin everywhere, and noone had it. I forget where I eventually got it...



    Ratch
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  13. DMK

    DMK 1/2 ton status

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    I got mine at napa. Autozone and pepboys did not have them.
     
  14. cederic

    cederic Registered Member

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    Thanks for all of the replies.
    I did find one at Car Quest. They had to order it but I'll have it today.
    Chilton's also says not to reuse the 3 nuts that hold the steering arm to the spindle on the drivers side. I had to get them from GM at $1.86 each.
    I'm really wondering if it is necessary to replace them.
    Thanks again for all of your help.


    [image]http://www.animationcity.net/gifz/hand.gif[/image]

    What do you call a fly after you pull off it's wings ?
    A WALK...ahhehe
     
  15. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    If memory serves me correctly you can replace the ball-joints without taking the steering arm off. But if you do take it off the should replace them with new lock nuts.

    What is and what should never be....
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  16. cederic

    cederic Registered Member

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    Yes, you can by taking off the tie-rod end off.
    But it looked so easy just to take off those 3 nuts. Wrong...
    That arm is stuck hard.
    So I ended up popping the tie rod off after all.
    I got some experience anyway.


    [image]http://www.animationcity.net/gifz/hand.gif[/image]

    What do you call a fly after you pull off it's wings ?
    A WALK...ahhehe
     
  17. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah that steering arm is a mother!

    What is and what should never be....
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