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Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!! **UPDATE**

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MudFrog, Nov 19, 2002.

  1. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Ok... here's the deal. For the past 6 months I have barely had a brake pedal. Mainly due to my master cylinder going bad, 3 MCs in 6 months. Anyway even when I put a new MC on I still can not get a brake. The shop I have taken it to will power bleed the brakes and get some pedal back but it's still nothing great. I'm really lost.

    Last night I was finishing the install of my 1 ton MC and Booster and when I tried to bleed the brakes there was no pedal (which was expected), however when I pumped the brakes with the rear nipple open the brake fluid barely came out of the nipple instead of squirting out. I'm assuming this is because of the booster being set up for Drums, but it still seems like it should get more pressure then that. I bled the brakes for an hour and I still have hardly any pedal.

    So far I have replaced the MC and Booster with 1 ton stuff, Front and Rear Disc brakes with 75 calipers in the rear and 85 calipers in the front. Front and Rear Stainless Steel Brake hoses. To my knowledge, the only thing I haven't replaced is the PV.

    I plan on replacing the PV with an adjustable one then having a straight shot to the front calipers. Is the PV on the front Crossmember where the ORD steering box brace bolts? If not can that little block go bad? I'm running out of things to replace and I desperately need to get this on the road again.

    Who sells an adjustable PV for the best price?
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    I had a problem with bleeding my rears when I swapped in the new 14 bolt. The brandy new looking bleeders had some debris stuck inside them...I used a small piece of wire to clean em out and they bled real good after that.

    Just something to check if you haven't already.

    Rene
     
  3. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    I had that problem when I first installed the disc brakes in the back, it's only been 2 weeks but I'll check tonight just to be sure.
     
  4. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    BTW.. I forgot to mention 2 things.
    1. The vacum hose for the booster was rigged. I did not have an adapter to go from the little hose (3/8?) to the bigger one ton hose (1/2?). So I did what I could, I got a pretty tight hose and it didn't seem as if air was getting sucked in but it very well could have.

    2. When I swapped the brake lines around (1 ton MC resevoir for the rear brakes are in front and the front brakes are the rear resevoir) the fittings were the wrong size. So I used brass pipe fittens so I could use the correct line with the correct resovoir. The hole in the fittens are not as big as the hole in the line but it looks about the same as the whole coming out of the MC... make sense?

    The brake lines were the correct size if I ran the lines to the opposite resovoir.. should I do that? That would make the smaller front resovoir for the front brakes and vice versa.
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    I bet the PV is full of rust.
     
  6. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    Did you bench bleed the MC before install?
     
  7. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    Thats what I was wondering... wasn't sure if PV's could go bad or get rust in them or what. Anybody have the part # for the adjustable PV? How about the place with the best price?

    Outlaw.. Yes we did bench bleed the MC.
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    Bypass the old one first. That will be about $10 for some parts. Some people are happy with the bias without it in there. I'm getting ready to by pass mine and see how it acts. Keep and eye on the
    I was talking to Robzilla last night when he was in town and he loves his with the PV bypassed with the disc rears. Say's that's the best the brakes have ever been.
    If you still want one www.inlinetube.com has the same Wilwood I'm using. I looked in the online Yellow pages under racing and found a local place to get mine from. It was about a wash. It was $54 with tax and inline gets $49 plus shipping.
     
  9. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    Ok.. dumb question but what exactly do I need to bypass it? Is there a fitting that will allow me to?
     
  10. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    Yeah a decent parts store will have the fittings. You will need a T for the front and then two reducers. The rear will need a adaptor to drop it down a couple sizes. I'll get all the sizes wrote down when I do it. The fron will need two 3/16 adaptors going to the front lines and the line going to them I think is 1/4. The rear is 5/16 down to 1/4 on the lines. I THINK but I get the right stuff for sure.
     
  11. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    I'll go based on those sizes.. I can always return them if needs be /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif.. Thanks for the help!
     
  12. slider

    slider 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    I went to In line tubes web site and saw they sell a disc to disc parpotioner(SP) valve instead of the disk to drum valve. Has any one tried one of those????
     
  13. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    I havent got rear disks but I had the same problem. I swapped in a 14 a few weeks ago and couldnt bleed out the brakes for squat. The brakes before the axle swap werent great but I accounted that to 38s and 10 bolt brakes. Turns out the rear flex line was collapsed, plugged or something. Replaced it and now I have great brakes.

    What kind of pressure do you have at the bottom of the flex line vs the top of the flex where the hard line goes in at the frame? Just something to check.
     
  14. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    Hey Grim.. I just stopped working on the brakes. I had to stop because I had a wrong size fitting. This is what I used.

    1- 3 way T (3/16) for the front brakes
    2- 3/16 to 1/4 adapters for front brakes
    1- 5/16 to 1/4 adapter for rear brakes
    1- 1/4 to 1/4 coupler to join the other adapters for rear brakes
    1- 1/4 to 3/8 adapter for rear brakes

    The brake line leaving the PV for the rear brakes appears to be 3/8". I need to pick up this fitting tomorrow but all should be good after I do, everything else bolted right up.
     
  15. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Banging my head against the wall... STUPID BRAKES!!

    OOPS! I just realized you replaced the brake lines w/ SS lines. Sorry I overlooked it. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
     
  16. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Well here's the deal.. I could not find the correct size fitting for the line to the rear brakes so I ended up gutting my PV and all is great. I have one heck of a pedal now, I'm extremely pleased. Just thought I'd let ya'll know what I came up with.
     
  17. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Hehehe I went through the same thing and did the same thing. I pulled the rubber seal out of the Metering valve and snapped the stem out of the center of the PV end. You need to leave the spring in the PV end. If you take the sping out the PV can slid up and engage the stopper on the stem the sticks through the center.
    Now it's a distribution block with a low pressure indicator.
     

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