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Basic audio questions (xover, etc.)

Discussion in 'Audio' started by Skigirl, Nov 23, 2001.

  1. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Trying ot sort out what's what on the existing amp in my rig. So here goes:

    1. There's a reference on the back of my amp to wire the power from amp to REM. I assume that's the radio, but what does REM mean?

    2. The previous owner had the amp attached to the tranny tunnel in front of the shifter (which has been moved back 4-5" to fit to the th400 aftermarket install). Is this an OK place to put it? The heater blows almost right on it. Would this be a bad thing?

    3. Right now it looks like the amp was connected to the fuse panel at the "PNL lights" available spot. There's a red wire that goes from that PNL lights plug to the amp (tho not hooked up) and another red wire out from the same plug to another plug that has what appears to be a buzzer attached to it. Running to this plug/buzzer arrangement is a brown wire from another fuse plug thing on the fuse panel at the ACC prong. Then from this connector/buzzer plug combo is a black wire to ground.

    (Patience please...I'm getting to the question now) The rig used to have an alarm system, no longer working. Do you think that the plug/buzzer combo into the ACC fuse panel prong is for the alarm, and the reason that the plug to the radio (at the PNL Lights prong) is there is because the ACC is taken? And the brown wire from the radio fuse plug to the ACC plug is there to sound an alarm if the wire to the stereo was cut or the stereo removed?

    The question: Couldn't I just pull the plugs to the fuse box for both of those things (at the PNL lights and ACC) and attach the amp power wire to the fused red wire coming in from the engine compartment? Or is there some standard way to wire an amp to the fuse panel? How big a fuse do I need if I run the power to the amp straight from the battery?

    Sorry for the long and complicated post, but wiring for me IS long and still complicated at times. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
     
  2. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    You shouldn't connect a highpower amp to anything but the battery with it fused at the battery. I wouldn't worry to much about the heater blowing on your amp unless your pushing it really hard, bridged, 2ohm, that sorta stuff.
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Ski,

    REM may refer to "remote power"....which would feed the amp with a small "turn on" signal when the key is in the "ON" or "ACC" position. It does not power the amplifier circuitry, just tells the amp to come on.

    Having the heater blowing on the amp is probably not a big deal...actually having air moving over it (even hot air) is still better than if it were enclosed in a space where no air could circulate....how large is this amp? (inches x inches?) It must be fairly small to fit in the space you describe.

    As a general rule....amps should NOT be wired into the fuse panel directly. It is because of the amount of current that any reasonably powerful amp will draw. The fuse panel simply is not setup to safely provide those levels of current. Get power to to amp directly from the battery, preferably with some heavy-gauge wire....something like 8 GA or better.

    It's hard to know what else to recommend without knowing more specifics about the amp, but this might help you get started....




    -Greg72

    '72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
    <font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
     
  4. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys [​IMG]

    Greg, the amp is small, maybe 7"x7"x2", only puts out 200 watts. Made by Urban Audio Works. Because the shifter has been moved back on the tunnel, there's plenty of room.

    I assume that the remote wire can stay where it is, i.e., attached to the panel light prong on the fuse box, yes?

    I'll run new wire to the battery and fuse it to 25 amps for power to the amp - do you think a 25 amp fuse is enough?

    One more question: the ground for the amp was made to the tranny hump. Think that's OK? Don't know where else to run it keeping in mind that it shouldn't be a long wire run to ground.
     
  5. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    If that wire is truly a "remote turn on" lead then it can stay where it is....

    25A is probably fine, the ground is also fine on the trans hump as long as it's got a nice clean metal-to-metal connection, and your "body grounds" are all good. Remember the cab of your truck is sitting on a bunch of rubber bushings, so you really need those ground straps to tie the body to the frame grounding, which is where the negative side of your battery is connected.

    Other than that you should be all set.



    -Greg72

    '72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
    <font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
     
  6. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Greg!
     

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