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Basic build-up information

Discussion in 'Rocky Mountain Region' started by teamhickman, Aug 29, 2004.

  1. teamhickman

    teamhickman 1/2 ton status

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    So here’s a basic idea of what we hope to achieve as a “Phase 1” build up. Please take a look and let me know what you guys think. I look forward to your input and all ideas or suggestions are welcome. This is a wish list based on what I know first hand and some of the things I’ve read about that make sense to me. The goal is is to build a truck capable enough to handle all the local runs, Terminator, Ajax, woodpecker ect. and still be able to drive it to the trails. Again, this is not a daily driver but we do not own a trailer.


    Suitable candidate blazer:

    1. Must have good floor pans! I can deal with panel replacement but do no want to have to do floors.

    2. Prefer 350 not 305 but it is not a major issue for us.

    3. Hope to find a 44/12 bolt combo will settle for 10 bolts.

    4. Should meet current AZ emission standards if at all possible. Not a deal breaker but I know this can be a pain in the ass to resolve.

    5. Fuel injection – Will be a bonus but I do not believe our budget for the initial purchase will get us into an 87 or newer.

    6. Transfer case: would love a 205 (with hopes of doubling at a later date) but will settle for anything.

    7. Lift kit – Not an issue as we will build what we want.


    Initial set up and review:

    1. Review drive train for problems or issues with attention given to engine, Tranny and PS cooling. R&R as required. Consider “Cool Can” for fuel system. Add line locks front and rear. Start collecting spare parts. Check frame at steering box, add ORD steering brace.

    2. Remove top and doors. Hope to lose 400 Lbs. and love the open air feeling. Look into pickup tail gate and glass hood for additional weight loss.

    3. Install full cage – tied to the frame.

    4. Light 4 wheeling – box canyon, coke ovens, crown king….Ect. Establish base line performance.

    5. Bumpers/Sliders. Cut body as required. What is everyone doing with their rockers? Removal, sliders ?

    6. Lift kit – 5” desired with a 35/36” tire. TC Front 4” springs with zero rates. Rear shackle swap and zero rates. Cut as required.

    7. Sway bar disco’s or sway bar removal. Will have to see how it handles on the street without a sway bar.

    8. Light 4 wheeling – box canyon, coke ovens, crown king….Ect.

    9. Winch

    10. Gears and lockers

    11. Steering – crossover? Hydro assist? Both? Will need some help here as this is an area I never improved or changed on the old bronco.

    12. Hit the trails, love the body damage and have fun!

    13. Purchase soft top

    So that’s a very brief idea of where we are heading with this project. I firmly believe a cage is a must and it will be one of the very first things we do. It will be tied to the frame but I’m still “on the fence” as to weather or not the seats need to be cage mounted. I know there is an on going argument over this but I have never seen a body separate from a frame. I had several tip overs and only one complete roll in the bronco and only saw some slight body shift. It “tweaked” the cage but I never broke a body mount or pulled anything through the floor. I am concerned due to the Blazer body weight and overall size and would love to hear some input on cage mounted Vs. floor mounted seats in a blazer.

    thanks,

    Andrew
     
  2. justhorsinaround

    justhorsinaround 3/4 ton status

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    Wow. Not only have you put some thought into this but you apparently love to type. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    If I was you, I'd just throw a lift and tires on whichever machine you end up purchasing if it doesn't already have said same and get out there and make sure you that you really like wheelin a bigger vehicle. Course you could go huge and buy a Suburban like Tj and Jay. Of course we all think they're nuts. Nice folks just weird. Settle down boys just kiddin. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
     
  3. teamhickman

    teamhickman 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif yea, i do alot of typing at work. I feel like I type faster than I talk /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif...LOL

    No "burb's" for me. At 6'5" 280 i could use the room but man, how do you turn those things on the trail!?!?!?!?

    I can't wait to see or ride in one, talk about a "land yacht".

    No offense intended.....just in awe of thoses who wheel such a long rig.

    Andrew
     
  4. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    You might want to opt for a 10 bolt front (28spline). Parts are easier and usually cheaper to find for it and it is just as strong as the D44.

    If you do crossover and your front suspension isn't super flexy hydro assist probably won't be necessary. I run 4" TC's with 1" zero rate and crossover without any problems. Turning is fairly easy. If you decide to go to a flexy front suspension (52" front springs, hybrid Jeep springs, etc) then hydro would probably be a good idea. With an off the shelf spring I don't think it is 100% necessary.

    I won't waste money on swaybar disconnects. I did once, and I sold them after I figured out the swaybar didn't do a heck of alot with lift springs installed other then rob flex. Crossover steering won't work with a swaybar installed anyway. Crossover is much more worth while of the 2 mods.

    A heavy duty tierod would be a wise investment too along with beefed up diff covers. Othewise it will be bent very quickly. Other then that it sounds pretty good overall.

    Harley
     
  5. teamhickman

    teamhickman 1/2 ton status

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    Harley, great info, this is the type of input I was looking for. I hadn't considered the sway bar and crossover interfering with each other. Same thing with the 10 bolt. I've been so accustomed to running a 44 up front I hadn't really considered the value of a 10.

    Andrew
     
  6. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    I don't know what locker you are going to run in the front but I have heard that D44's have to drop the carrier to get Lockrights in where 10bolts don't. A little less headache possibly.

    The other nice thing about 10 bolts are that they are newer axles. This means they have seen less use and should have a longer fatigue life then D44 stuff since it is older. I wouldn't consider 30 spline 10 bolt stuff for the fact it is harder to find axleshafts for and the carrier is weaker then the 28 spline carrier. If you get a Detroit locker that won't matter though.

    D44's and 10 bolts share the same weak point. Axle ujoints and inner axleshaft at the spline where it necks down.
     
  7. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    All sounds like a good start. Don't worry about high dollar stuff. Most everybody here has/is doing their own fab work (referred to as bootie fab or CEE) with minimal tools and time. The 1 ton is overrated, and half ton can be made to last. As for lockrights on D44 depends on the gear ratio as far as removal. If you need any cheap, easy, proven, and safe ideas for something special just speak up. There is a very wide variety of set ups running the same trails. And some very knowledable people piloting those rigs.
     
  8. 77ChevyK10

    77ChevyK10 1/2 ton status

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    Andrew,

    Man do i have the blazer for you. The 75 K5 is ready for the build up to.
     
  9. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Just out of curiosity I looked on autotrader.com and found this locally $3,750, CALL 602-997-6778....ARIZONA WHOLESALE, loaded with everything .

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. k5redneck

    k5redneck 1/2 ton status

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    that blazers is to nice to 4wheel. i know were u can get a 75 blazer for 2 grand /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
     
  11. Jays Beast

    Jays Beast 1/2 ton status

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    For that price why not get this one being a 1990 should have fuel injection, 700r4, and a np241 (poor mans doubler). Probably does have 30 spline axles which are a little harder to find, but if putting in lockers could be changed over to the more common 28 spline. Just my .02 /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif


    P.S. I know were a spare set of 30 spline axle shafts are front and rear. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  12. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    I must of missed that one , and its got the work truck front end , which is different than everyone and his brother doing the 89-91 grille swap /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  13. k5redneck

    k5redneck 1/2 ton status

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    i like that front end better /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif
     
  14. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    I remembered another thing you can do to loose some weight on a K5. Take of the K5 tailgate and bolt on a truck tailgate. It is VERY easy and will save you 60lbs or more.

    All you need is a functioning truck tailgate from any year between 73-87 with all its mounting hardware. It all bolts right up to the Blazer.

    Harley
     

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