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beginners guide to body work

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Jan 7, 2002.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    ok guys...

    I'm thinking that while IE is down and out, and waiting for funding that I would do a little body work on it. I'd like to use IE as a practice base before I start my restore on my 50 truck, and take advantage of my current situation.

    I'm wondering if anybody has recommendations on some basic tools, and maybe some good books.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  2. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I don't know about books so, can't help there.

    On tools, I started out with pretty much nothing but hand blocks. I would recommend a couple of regular hand blocks which can each be set up with various grits of paper (roughly: 60, 120, 400w/d {depending on paint system you may need to finish with 600w/d}). Maybe an "idiot stick" (sort of a long block (18"? don't remember) with handles) for helping with long flat areas. A D/A would be good for feathering the paint edges and dealing with things like chips but don't try to do body filler with it. Using a power sander of any kind on body filler takes practice and you gotta develop a real feel for it. You need to learn the basics (and feel) before getting in a hurry with power equipment. Also a basic set of hammers and dollies (a pick and medium anvil are primary) plus I really like a steel "slapping spoon" for finish work.

    That will get you started. The main thing is that the hand blocks give you lots of "hands on" time with the panels. You will need to rub your flat hand across the panel many times, you gotta learn to "feel" the shape. Your hand will tell you MUCH more than your eyes, especially after you get some practice. I always like to keep a "primer gun" (cheap gun specifically for primer) setup and handy for finish blocking. Just remember to spray primer in thin coats to avoid shrinkage (especially if you use lacquer primer) which will show sand scratches through the top coat.

    That is all I can think of. I've been out of body work now for about 9-10 years or so. I'm sure others can help more than me but, there is my $0.02.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    The Peterson's 4W&amp;OR I got in the mail yesterday (Feb 2002 Issue) has a big section on DIY bodywork.....

    Not so much on all the "HOW"s...but there are sections on tools, overall process, etc.

    Might be worth a look if you haven't already seen it.....[​IMG]



    -Greg72

    '72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
    <font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
     
  4. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm with Greg, check that out. Looked like a good articles on:

    Spray bombing, body work tips, metal working, and then the classic poor-man's professional painting tips. Short articcles, but helpful.

    <font color=red>GOT MUD???</font color=red>
    My license plate reads:<font color=blue> 8 YR SUV</font color=blue>
    454/TH400/NP205 - 14BFF/D60/w/ 4.10s - 36" TSLs
     
  5. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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    Jeff,

    I bought the Haynes Bodywork/Painting book, it was worth the $18 cost.

    I'm planning body work on my 88 K5 and the wife's 89 S-15. (I may have to name my Blazers now that I have 3 of the darn things)

    John

    John
     
  6. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    I will have to check this stuff out...

    thanks guys, and do you have any recommendations on where to get tools?

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  7. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    I know Eastwood carries them all.

    Some people shouldnt drive anything bigger than their head.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  8. Chaz316

    Chaz316 1/2 ton status

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    I actually read that article at lunch today. I especially like the idea of the red scotch bright bad for wet sanding. When I painted my last truck(My uncle painted-I sanded) I learned how to use a DA pretty handily and also that when you use a good primer seraler(we used DP-40)that when you sand the primer the disc can get gummed up pretty quick and that can lead to damaging the smoothness of the primer.

    As far as tools go. You need a DA. I DA'd the whole truck and never used a block. Not saying that blocks are bad. I just didnt use one. As far as body filler went my uncle repaired a couple of screw holes for me and I was amazed at the amount of time he spent mixing it. I was under the impression that the longer you waited the faster it would dry. He explained that you want to mix it thouroughly so as to not get,or leave, any air pockets in it.

    Im painting my 82 as soon as it warms up a little down here but right now Im removing all this trim so I can have a nice clean smooth truck. Of course I will probably screw the paint up and have to do it all over again but thats half the fun.

    "If it aint broke don't fix it" is like a 4 letter word.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.phatboy.alloffroad.com>PhatBoy.AllOffRoad.com </a>
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Basket ball and 2x4's are the body tools of choice for Dollar [​IMG]. Although that 10 ton ram from Harbor is looking interesting hahahaha.

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
    coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     
  10. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    I've use 2x4's a couple times to adjust my doors actually. [​IMG] anyway I need to learn how to do this stuff correctly... [​IMG] LOL

    I got a chiltons body book from the library... I'll get a haynes or something on payday for myself, and then pick up a few tips along the way.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  11. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Grim, I've got the 4-ton porta-ram from Harbor Freight, with all the accessories. I don't have to use it often, but when I do, there's nothing else that will so the job. It's pretty handy for jobs where you have to spread things apart. [​IMG] They put the set on sale regularly for abour $80.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  12. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Start with a MIG welder. :)

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  13. Topless84

    Topless84 Registered Member

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    Anyone ever try a dry wall sander? I use one for blocking out my projects. Avalable at any hardware store for about 10$, plus the pre-cut paper( I use 100 grit for blocking), then I cut my own paper for final sanding. Using it up and down in a
    diagonal fashion I can put razor sharp edges on body lines and nice smoothe curves every where they should be. Dont't
    forget spot putty. Buy the bigest tub you can. It fixes all the inperfections that you might encouter, like pin holes in filler and sharp edges in the paint that always get over looked. (mostly because I drive as I fix them). Any way these are cheap tools you can get anywhere, give it a try.
    Good luck with it

    4X4 Once I got one, won't ever be with out one
     

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