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Best attack plan for swap

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jess, Mar 14, 2004.

  1. jess

    jess Registered Member

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    Just took the 305/700/208 combo out of my 85 Blazer and I'm getting reading to swap in a 350/465/205 combo. What's the best order to use for the install? I've never done a complete swap all in one shot so any tips that can save me time and aggravation from those who have will be appreciated.
     
  2. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    assuming the body is still on.. motor, trans then tcase..
     
  3. supersize75k5

    supersize75k5 OrganDonorRacing.com

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    call me crazy....

    spend 45 minutes and remove your front end, radiator ect...

    drop her all in at once using friends to guide it and just take it easy and have patience /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif


    or...if you need to hook up linkages ect for the 465 I would do t-case and tranny first so you have working room, at any rate though pull that front end to make life easy, it shure is nice to work on a motor when you can stand next to it /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  4. jess

    jess Registered Member

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    Thanks for tips. Front end is off the truck, fenders and all. I assumed engine first would be easiest. Seems like a long, heavy, deal to try to slide in all one piece but, maybe I will try it. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  5. TruckNutzDude

    TruckNutzDude 1/2 ton status

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    Do it all at once! /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif I'll be following right behind you with my 700R4/241 to 465/205 swap /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif I think the fun part will be hooking up the clutch linkages and z-bar bracket to the frame. Unless I can find a hydrolic system /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif.
     
  6. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Since the front is off just slide it all home as one peice.
    What will you be using to to drop it in?
    That is one long heavy mass of iron.
    Most pickers won't like that much weight. Even though you won't be lifting it as high they still get tippy and don't like to move well.
    I just did this and the next time I will remove the front and put it all in at the same time.
    It would take way less time and effort to do that than engine first and then gearbox and case.
    I hooked up my Z-bar after everything was bolted down.
    Not sure what the big deal is on that. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  7. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Another vote for all at once.
    I would do Hydro swipswap now too! Screw that dumb Zbar! I've broken my last one!!! Hydro ROCKS!! Well at least that is waht I have been told..hehehe I am doing mine now so haven't had a chance to use it yet... /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
     
  8. jess

    jess Registered Member

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    My pick is pretty big, 2.25 ton with long, wide legs so should be okay to do in one shot. The more I think about it I think it was a dumb question. As far as clutch linkage goes, I haven't looked hard but can't I mount the linkage and bracket to the frame first? Or do I fit them first and remove for the install? I've already got the mechanical linkage so I wasn't gonna bother with a hydro swap. Maybe I'll feel different if I do break the Z. This is a great website, very informative. Thanks.
     
  9. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    No, the linkage will not beinstalled before the engine. There are two ball/bolts that hold the Z bar. One screws into the block and the other screws into the frame mounted bracket( I am talking about my 1972 K5 so I have no idea how the other work). The Zbar has to be put in after the block mounted ball is inplace. It is real simple to do. Hydro is the way to go. Manual linkage works fine but while it's out you may wat to consider upgrading now.
    Hydro began in 87ish time frame.
    Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     

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