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Best solution for a crack frame at the steering box?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Judd, Oct 25, 2004.

  1. Judd

    Judd 1/2 ton status

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    I know this has most likely been discussed a few dozen times but-

    I've just cracked the frame at the steering box pretty badly. I'm going to clamp, fram with a hammer and weld the cracks up the best I can but I'm interested in the frame repair kits sold by alot of places {J.C. Whitney, Off-Road Design,,, ect.}. Do they realy help or do they just transfer the stress elsewhere resulting in cracks where the plates stop??

    Also, has anyone tried Off-Road Design's steering box support? Basically, would it be worth my time to weld up the cracks, weld the repair plates on even though I will be adding the support bracket?
     
  2. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Yes weld up the crack first. Some say to drill holes at each end of the crack to stop the spreading. No idea if that is effective, but it sounds logical.

    The weld on plates that a lot of places sell do work. Stitch weld those on for extra protection.

    Next, the bolt on brace kit can help to stiffen the front of the frame and take some of the stresses off of the gear box area.

    I've done all of the above and had no problems afterward.
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    In addition:

    Knock all the rivets out of the front crossmember and replace with grade 8 bolts and nuts

    Upgrade motor mounts

    I sell both the bolt on and weld on patches. I've got two bolt on braces left at $110 shipped in the USA for CK5 members, steel prices have gone up and the next batch will likely have to be $120 shipped for CK5 members and 120 + 12 for everyone else.
     
  4. tx_sub

    tx_sub 1/2 ton status

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    drilling holes at the end of the crack it to prevent additional crack propogation. circles have the lowest stress concentration factor of 3. the sharper the crack end, the higher the stress concentration factor.

    there's your dose of materials engineering for the night. grind out a v in the crack so your weld will get good penetration. then grind back smooth. the weld in kits require a good bit of fitting, read BFH, to fit your frame. the bolt in kit is just that. some people do one or the other or both. if you continue to wheel your truck hard, its usually the consensus that you do both. hope that answers your question. /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  5. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    drilling holes at the end of the crack it to prevent additional crack propogation. circles have the lowest stress concentration factor of 3. the sharper the crack end, the higher the stress concentration factor.

    there's your dose of materials engineering for the night. grind out a v in the crack so your weld will get good penetration. then grind back smooth. the weld in kits require a good bit of fitting, read BFH, to fit your frame. the bolt in kit is just that. some people do one or the other or both. if you continue to wheel your truck hard, its usually the consensus that you do both. hope that answers your question. /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Nice, informative and percise /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
    Do what he said and have no worries...
     
  6. Judd

    Judd 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the replies and advise. Think I'll do "all of the above" since the box is off anyway and I'm already down, might as well be down for a bit longer to ensure that I have no more cracks in that spot.

    Once again, thanks.
     
  7. RaisedK5

    RaisedK5 1/2 ton status

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    Heres a link to my post on the Big Dawg board when i did mine.

    Frame Plate
     

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