Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Best U Joint brand

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by zhgrou6, Aug 9, 2005.

  1. zhgrou6

    zhgrou6 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2003
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NY Finger Lakes
    I'm replacing the rear u-joint on my K5. My favorite parts store carries the following brands of U-joints: NEAPCO, GMB, and McQuay Norris. I've never heard of any of them. What's the best brand?
     
  2. mudnmyvayne

    mudnmyvayne 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2004
    Posts:
    173
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Texas Panhandle
    Best brand,by far, is Spicer.

    Edit: For normal use.
     
  3. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2002
    Posts:
    6,587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sheridan, Michigan
    way up top is spicer, only an offroad shop or a driveline shop is gonna have these.

    a close but distant second is neapco. i hate the precision ujionts that napa sells.
     
  4. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2004
    Posts:
    25,526
    Likes Received:
    526
    Location:
    horseheads , ny 14845
    napa has pulled all major brand lables on drive line parts. thay are still running the name but its jap crap.:mad:

    autozone has brute force thay are good joint.

    hay buddy where are you in the fingerlakes?
     
  5. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2002
    Posts:
    6,587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sheridan, Michigan
    brute force is made by neapco, read the box some time, the pdq that autozone sells is also made by neapco.
     
  6. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2003
    Posts:
    3,659
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Cedar City, UT
    Out of the 3 I would go with NEAPCO. CTM ujoints are by far the most superior u joint on the market. Although I believe they only sell them for axle shafts and not drivelines.......
     
  7. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2004
    Posts:
    25,526
    Likes Received:
    526
    Location:
    horseheads , ny 14845
    well excuse me mister perfect:mad: i wont run the pdq crap but the rest is o.k. buy me. i quess i will read the box next time.:crazy: i run whats good and dont wory about it.:doah: ......... oh ya buy the way:p:
     
  8. big_o_blazer

    big_o_blazer Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2005
    Posts:
    13
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    north carolina
    Go Cheap

    a smart man told me if something is gonna break on the trail why not have it be something easily replaced (U joints) Go cheap or lose your front or rear end.....easiest is always the best :wink1:


    75 K5 UNDER CONSTRUCTION..............
     
  9. redneckdude

    redneckdude 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2004
    Posts:
    578
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Augusta, GA
    Some of the time if you are in a situation to blow a u joint, all the other parts after it are gonna have a lot of binding pressure on them...u joint goes, the rest unbind and snap like that...heard of it happening before too.
     
  10. zhgrou6

    zhgrou6 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2003
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NY Finger Lakes
    Went with NEAPCO

    Hey everybody I went with the NEAPCO 2-3011BF. Thanks for the advice. I shop at an Advance Auto Parts. Yeah, nice beefy trunnion (spider) and all. I worry more about the bearings than the trunnion. This is a sealed U-Joint, no grease fitting. I always like to be able to grease things - but U-Joints are pain cause I have to use a needle fitting on the grease gun. Everything went together fine. I used a make shift press by laying a hydraulic jack on it's side between two walls and pressing the joint together. After I got the C clips in it felt too stiff. The Haynes manual suggests giving the yoke a good wack with a hammer to spring the ears. I did that and it loosened up nice.

    I'm going to leave the drive shaft out for now, because I have to replace the pinion shaft seal. I have a big old rusty fused nut to remove.
     
  11. zhgrou6

    zhgrou6 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2003
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NY Finger Lakes
    sweetK30 - I live in Branchport, north end of Keuka Lake...
     
  12. K5Kell

    K5Kell Guest

    In my experience I just block the blazer well, jack the rear end up with it in neutral. As it freely rotates I can fit in a regular tipped grease gun in there no problem. Easier to grease then pulling the straps, but thats just my .02.
    -Kell-
     

Share This Page