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Best way to adjust valve lash...the non engine running method isnt working

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90idahoblazer, May 28, 2002.

  1. 90idahoblazer

    90idahoblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I have tried the chiltons method...runs rough....should I adjust both banks?....How about the engine running method with hydraulic lifters...There was only a slight clatter before I messed with the perfectly good motor....That will teach me to leave well enough alone


    Thanks guys
     
  2. 90idahoblazer

    90idahoblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Come On out of all you Mechanics...no one has any Ideas on how to adjust valve lash...
     
  3. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    When I did mine I had the motor running, (at operating temp) and backed them off till they made noise. Then tightened them up till it stopped chattering, and went an extra 1/2 -3/4 turn after they were quiet. I need to do it again as a matter of fact. Its messy tho, oil spruts out the top of the rockers when running.
     
  4. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    The engine running method is really the best. You will want to do both sides. Use pieces of cardboard to try to help with the oil spray and good luck. Where at in Idaho are you?
     
  5. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    I was trying to find a post from a year or so ago on a newsgroup. But anyhow, the procedure best to use is a degree wheel and you start at TDC, adjust those, turn so many degree's until the next one in firing order, adjust those...as so on. I struggled with the same thing a year or so ago, the engine running method really bites, not to mention no factory or engine shop I've been to adjusts them with the engine running. I used the degree wheel and it worked perfect the first time, and no mess! Just wish I could find my instructions.!
     
  6. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I'm partial to the motor off way. The oil spurting everywhere method sucks. I also it really isn't as accurate as other methods out there. Most people use the 1-6 method... adjusting the rockers while the motor is in either #1 or #6 position. I assume this is the method you were using... I have had best luck adjusting to zero lash and half to one additional turn
     
  7. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I use the motor running method. It's quick and the adjustments match to your lifters bleed rate which can additianally identify worn lifters early on. 1/2 to 3/4 turn past chatter should do you fine,I'm not convinced on the 'steeling lift' at higher RPM through some tightening methods although I have seen compelling evidence to support it at the track. They sell clips at your local parts counter to snap on the valves so they cant squirt while you do it, a flat surface helps to control drippage depending on the heads your running, camel humps leak no matter what!
     
  8. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I've had good luck doing the motor off method if the cam is not to wild. The last cam I installed had a .488 lift and the motor off method did not completely work out. It also depends on who you talk to. Try the motor off method first (its cleaner), and if it doesnt work, finish it up while its running.
     
  9. 90idahoblazer

    90idahoblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys...I used the off method and went 1/2 turn further...now the engine wont start...so I bought those clips and Im going to do it with the engine on....I will let you know how it works...

    Thanks
     
  10. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    Get a old set of steel valve cover and cut a slot in the top of them to make your adjustment thru. Put a rubber gasket on it so it's reuseable. If you do one side at a time then you only need one cut down cover. Also use the clips at the same time. The cut down cove solves the leak back problem.
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Loosen them. Keep in mind that too loose is much better than too tight. You don't want to burn a valve.
     
  12. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I had a problem doing it with the motor off before too. What I was doing was tightening until I could no longer turn the pushrod with my fingers and then tightening another 1/2 turn. What I was inadvertantly doing was going well beyond zero lash before adding my 1/2 turn.

    I backed em all off again and then snugged the rocker nuts until I had no more up and down play at the pushrod and then did my 1/2 turn...that worked much better. I'd guess you have em way too tight right now.

    Rene
     
  13. 90idahoblazer

    90idahoblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Awesome Guys....Thanks
     
  14. dogman

    dogman 1/2 ton status

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    I usually use the engine off method with very good results. it works everytime I'v done it on 265,283,327,350,400.
    for hydraulic lifters: back them off loose. I tighten until the push rod makes contact.
    by spinning the push rod, feel that the lash is gone, that is no more movement up and down.
    I turn, 1 full turn down. <& that's right out of the Chevy motor manual.
    to set the push rod half way into the hydraulic lifter. (with a fresh motor I fill the lifters with oil from a squirt can)
    make sure you count #1 front drivers side, #2 is front passage side.
    won't start?
    did you put you timing mark on one, is the rotor pointing at the cap #1? and not a tooth off??
     
  15. Jay73K20

    Jay73K20 Registered Member

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    I'm suprised no one is mentioning high pump lifters.
     
  16. Chris_T

    Chris_T 1/2 ton status

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    Valve covers with holes in them .. now why didn't I think of that! Nice trick, I like that one
     
  17. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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