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best way to clean an engine?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by kw48653, Jun 11, 2004.

  1. kw48653

    kw48653 Registered Member

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    I have a "new to me" engine from the junk yard. i took off the intake manifold and it is really sludgy inside. what is the best way to clean an engine on an engine stand?
     
  2. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    how far ya tearing it apart?

    if you just plan to put another intake on it (like a votrec one for a TBI set up ) then I woudl just wipe the junk out then after it is together use an engine flush, soilder seal and gunk both make one.

    I used diesel to clean mine but i also pulled the heads and stuff all apart.
     
  3. bigyellowjimmy

    bigyellowjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    If you are not going to disassemble it just carefully wipe out all the crap you can before installing the intake, you should also remove the valve covers and clean the top of the heads if you havent already. Then change your oil and filter very often for several times to let the oil filter get most of the rest. You can also use engine flush to clean it up if the oil changes arent working /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. kw48653

    kw48653 Registered Member

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    yeah, i don't think i want to yank the heads. i'm with ya on petro.
     
  5. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    A sludgy junk yard engine on the stand.
    You are considering putting this engine to use?
    Myself I would take a few minutes and take it down to a bare block.
    If the bearings and such look good wash it all down with a gallon of carb leaner and chase it with some break clean.
    That only works if ya dont peel a head off or a main/rod cap and have an OMG moment.
     
  6. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    I would definately drop the oil pan and check out the bearings, i bought two different engines for another car i have here, and both of them had spun or really messed up rod bearings, the dude told me it ran when they pulled it and was quiet, and i said yea it was quiet, thats because it had 10 qts of oil in it.

    But definately tear as much off of it as you can and do a very good inspection of components.

    If all looks good, do as mentioned already, i would put in new oil, cheap stuff for the first few times, run it for awhile, drop it and the filter, and replace it again, then drive with that for a bit, and once again replace the oil, with good stuff, then change out the oil frequently, but less and less as the oil starts looking better.

    With my current motor, i change my oil at 2500 miles, or whenever it starts to get "dirty lookin"

    214,000 miles too.
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I've used an old shop vac to suck all the crud under the intake out when doing cam swaps--it does make a mess of the hose though,and your wife WILL be very angry when she goes to vaccuum her white carpet with it! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gifHow do I know this! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
    Here's a tip when shopping for a boneyard motor--pick the greasiest,goopiest sludgeball you can find--every time I find one with pretty paint,hi-rise intake and chrome vale covers,they either rap after putting them in or smoke like a chimney--the ugly ones that look like junk usually are the ones that will never say die--and DONT paint it before you put it in,or you will sentence it to an ealy death--just my experience,anyway! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
     
  8. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Going to have mine professionally cleaned, dipped and whatever, then take it out and have it chrome plated. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     

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