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Best way to clock a D60 Front? Inner Knuckles or tubes?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Batmanjr, May 24, 2003.

  1. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    Need input on clocking the front D60... I'm mounting my 52" rear springs on the front and am expecting alot of travel.... Jesse at High ANgle suggested it and I agree that it should be done for best results! Question is at what end is the easiest and best place to rotate the pumpkin? The inner Cs look like a PITA, but I could be mistaken about where the axle tube meets the pumpkin.... ANy suggestions or experiance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> I don't think it matters that much, they'll both be a PITA. I have seen them done by actually cutting the tube then welding it back together, seems pretty booty but when it's done correctly it should be plenty strong. Don't forget that you need to mill the spring pad on the passenger side and reweld the driver's side perch in order to actually get the pinion to point up... </font>
     
  3. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    Can I run a sold steel shim instead of milling the pad?

    What about the bolt hole angle?

    If I move the axle tube near the pumpkin, I don't need to move the spring perch....

    THanks for the reply! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> The bolt holes are the problem with cutting and turning the D60, I thought about doing mine but didn't want to deal with that part of it. You could use shims on it but milling the pad is the clean way to go. </font>
     
  5. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    My latest attempt at front spring packs that work like I want them to has resulted in my pinion pointed too far down to use, so I have been thinking about these things too. However, I don't want to do anything permanent, at least not until I am sure I have what I want, the D60 is too expensive to replace.

    You could also have a second shim on top, or a custom spring plate machined with the right angle. That way the studs would be square to the nut surface. Talk to "Kickin' AZ" (see vendor forum or recent posts), they make high quality bolt in shims and offset plates along with other cools stuff. The bolt in part would make me feel beter for the front.

    Milling the pad, welding up the stud holes, redrilling and tapping square to the new pad is going to be expensive and troublesome, but it would be the best way in a prefect world (hmm, I guess in a "perfect" world, it would need to be done). Good luck!
     

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