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Best way to hook up dual batteries????

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by nickstegeman, Jul 28, 2003.

  1. nickstegeman

    nickstegeman Registered Member

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    I want to put dual batteries and a 180 amp alternator in my 85 k5. Any suggestions on the best way to do this?? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. gokartergo

    gokartergo 3/4 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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  3. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    Cheap for what it is, and probably one of the best units out there.
     
  4. Shagnaz

    Shagnaz 1/2 ton status

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    Isolator.
    I have 2 yellow top Optima's and have them charging through a ambulance isolator. I have not had a problem winching or over charging either.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Here's what I did, which may not be the best, but works for me: I got a big marine battery switch and a healthy relay from Wrangler power products. Run both the battery connections to both the switch and the relay. The switch selects between 1,2 and off. Attach the output of the switch to everything that uses battery power. Trigger the relay from your key switch.

    What this does is completely cut off one battery from the circuit (whichever you don't select with the switch) when the truck is off. It will not go dead if there is a slow drain or you leave your headlights on, or whatever. Once the key is turned, the relay attaches the two batteries together, so they both help start and both get charged. You can also turn the switch off when you're messing with stuff to cut off all the power.

    It's saved my butt a few times. When the truck won't start, just pop the hood and turn to the other battery (that's if it's so dead that the relay won't engage). I also put a small switch on the relay to disable it in case one battery is so dead that it sucks down the other and prevents starting.

    I'm sure there's better ways, so FWIW.
     
  6. Dan1

    Dan1 Newbie

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    I use an ambulance isolator i got from a wrecking yard and i have no problems with it.
     
  7. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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  8. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Most starter solenoids have between 1/2 square inch and 3/4 sq in. of
    surface area... they'll switch under load (obviously, it's their job) but
    as a result, the contacts are assumed to operate under intermittent load.
    The switching action will cause arcing, which burns away the contact
    surface, leaving corrosion and pitting. Starter solenoids manage a fair
    lifespan that way... but they're considered a consumable part.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    [ QUOTE ]
    So if you take a normal starter solenoid and hook it to a 12v battery,
    it'll last oh... somewhere between 35 seconds and a few minutes... then
    it'll cash it in.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    I call bullshit here. Sorry but our monument truck uses a solenoid isolater system and has done so on the SAME solenoid since we got in...in 1981. The aux solenoid runs the liftgate, crane, and aux feeds for radio, interior lights, cigarette lighter, etc...

    The switching action will cause arcing yes, when you are drawing 400-500 amps. Who is drawing that much power from an auxilary circuit when you turn your vehicle on? Our aux bat solenoid only engages when the key is turned to ON or AUX. Unfortunatly this systen is not foolproof, any time both batteries are selected together they can drain one from the other. So unless you wanna flip a switch every time you turn your vehicle on and off save yourself a headache and get an isolater.

    35 seconds to a minute harrumph.
     
  9. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    That switch is COOL I wanted to run a deepcycle marine battery to run lights andand the radio and stuff when then truck isent running and use my optima for starting thanks for the link /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  10. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    What if I leave my regular, single battery circuit intact and unmolested and installed two other batteries to run off a diffeerent alternator. I figure between lights a stereo and a winch, I need more batteries. Is this possible? Thx
     
  11. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    I dunno about that method on Pirate 4x4. I'd rather not have some 2000 amps of power running into the cabin. Just my two cents.
     
  12. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I don't have to worry about any of this anyway....
    I have a Marine alt. that has dual outputs. Just hook one to one bat and the other to the other.
     
  13. RustBuket

    RustBuket 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I don't have to worry about any of this anyway....
    I have a Marine alt. that has dual outputs. Just hook one to one bat and the other to the other.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Now THAT is the best idea I've heard so far! So simple!
     
  14. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    Well this might be a simple solution as well. Just pop the hood of a diesel and check it out. Follow the same wiring as the diesel uses and you should maintain somewhat similar to factory reliability.
    Or even just rob the wiring system from a junkyard diesel that is in good shape. Cheap way to upgrade your system.
     
  15. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    Don't some diesels run a 24v system? I heard that somewhere. If so it's nothing you'd want in your rig unless you like lots of burnt out electricals /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  16. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    Could be, I wasn't to sure. Thought it was a good idea. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  17. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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  18. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I don't have to worry about any of this anyway....
    I have a Marine alt. that has dual outputs. Just hook one to one bat and the other to the other.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Are the batteries isolated by this setup? I mean, if you leave the dome light on, will they both drain, or just the primary?
     
  19. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Well this might be a simple solution as well. Just pop the hood of a diesel and check it out. Follow the same wiring as the diesel uses and you should maintain somewhat similar to factory reliability.
    Or even just rob the wiring system from a junkyard diesel that is in good shape. Cheap way to upgrade your system.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    If I understand right, a 12V diesel system just has two batteries in parallel to give enough juice for starting against the high compression. Just like one bigger battery, so you really get no redundancy. Maybe that's all you want, but I (and I think others) are interested in reducing the chance of getting stranded in the sticks. I doubt you get that from a diesel setup. As I understand it anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  20. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    It would just depend on how I hook it up (still have my stock 35A alt in there /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif). I am thinking of having the truck start and run on one battery and having the winch (when I get one), KC's (when I get some of those too), and other accessories run off another battery.
     

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