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Best way to install new body mounts?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BayouBlazer88, Mar 2, 2003.

  1. BayouBlazer88

    BayouBlazer88 1/2 ton status

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    Just picked up a poly-urethane body mount kit from energy suspension because my stock mounts are shot. The kit didn't come with very detailed instructions so what's the easiest way to change them? Also, what's the torque specs for the mounting bolts? thanks.

    Matt
     
  2. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Honestly? Dish out the cash to have it done /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif If I ever do it again it'll give me a heart attack. Basically you need to loosed both sides pretty well, and work on one side at a time. I used a floor jack and some timber crossarms (4x4's) Jack up the truck and use a screwdriver to knock the old rubber pucks out. Don't get your fingers in the space between the frame and the body. The bolts in the rear need to have a tack weld removed to get the bolt out of the bed. And the holes in the bed are round and the bolts that come with the kit are squared!!! So you'll need to use a dremel to square off the hole in the bed. At least thats what I did. At least I think I did. It was 2 yrs ago and I remember drinking heavily by this point /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Basically take your time, don't take short cuts and buy about $100 worth of wd40. Prolly didn't help much but I remember the bed pissing off bcos of the tack welds and the bolts. Good luck. I'm sure someone else will have a chapter to help you out.
     
  3. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    First get some PB-Blaster and soak all the bolts that you can get to and do the Gas tank straps just in case you need to drop the tank.
    Next do not use a impact to take the nuts/bolts off use a braker bar.
    When I did mine I loosend all of the bolts then I did one side then the other, I also put a 1in body lift on at the sametime so now is a good time to put one in.
    You will more problems with the back four bolts as they are tack welded to the bed I'm not sure if you will have to take out the bolts or if you can get the body up high enough to put the new ones in most likely not.
    As I said I put in a 1in body with new mounts and I had to drop the gas tank just so I could get the back mounts in.
    I can't remember what I tightend the bolts down to sorry.


    Eric
     
  4. BayouBlazer88

    BayouBlazer88 1/2 ton status

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    Did you have any problems with the gas tank being in the way? I read an old post about someone having to remove the whole tank. Did you have the same problem? Thanks.

    Matt
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If the rearmost body mount bracket is still in place, I do NOT see you being able to replace that mount without pulling the tank, period.

    Don't listen to their instructions about discarding that bracket. Once you see that it is what holds the rear bumper support in place, and has the threaded nuts built into it, you will understand how dumb it is to *try* and replace those with nuts, when you can't get your fingers in there.

    The bracket I'm talking about is "L" shaped (but actually has another piece on it), just upside down, and holds the lower half of the body mount captive. Take the bracket out, cut the very top of the "L" off, set the lower body mount cushion on it, and bolt in place. Use the bolts for the rear bumper support to keep it in place.

    There was something wrong with the bed mounts which did require grinding, but I think it was the washers they supply...you re-use the bed bolts, but they have to be square to fit into the bed. (and keep from turning while you tighten, exactly like bumper bolts) The washers are round, so the bolt doesn't sit flush, took a few seconds to figure that one out. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Cut the spot welds AFTER loosening the nut on them. Make sure and cut all the way through the weld, pounding them with a hammer will rip the bed. Take the washers that Energy supplies for those mounts, and just make the hole a bit larger, or at least square enough to fit the square section of the bolt.
     
  6. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    whatever you do, when u do a body lift or body bushing install... disconnect your steering shaft and tranny linkage before you start trying to pry the rig and frame apart...

    j
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Didn't need to (465) but yeah, I can see that being an issue.

    You can put a 2x4 between the body and frame where you are working on each mount if you still want to use your fingers, and keep them.

    Another trick from that last post, chain the axle to the frame. My stock height truck rose a good 4+ inches with the body weight removed, and made it difficult to jack the body up high enough...used a lot of blocks, and it only fell once /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  8. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    I did the 1" ORD lift last weekend and could have changed the mounts if necessary. I can not speak for any other year, but my '90 Jimmy did not require the tank to be dropped to get to the bolts in the rear, even if you have to you can do it without removing the tank, you can just tilt it down.

    Liberal use of PB blaster a couple of days ahead of time will help you. You can even get to the capture nuts by carefully inserting the spray tube in the holes close to the nuts.

    As others have said, DO NOT use an impact wrench on the bolts that go into the capture nuts. Disconnect the auto tranny linkage and when lifting the body, your fan may hit.
    You will have to remove the four rear bolts which are spot welded to the bed. The spot welds can be cut with a die grinder, etc.
     
  9. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I did all new body mounts and the 1" ORD body lift, I bought a die grinder for $50 and sure got my money's worth out of it.
    I found most all the bolts had a factory weld on the head of the bolts. I'd grind off the factory welds, if they gave me too much trouble i'd just continue grinding off the whole head of the bolt and then punch the bolt through the bottom.
    I didn't have to drop my gas tank or remove either bumpers, i could get my hand in there. The only other thing i had to mess with is i did have to remove my radiator to get to the front two radiator support bolts.
    Good luck man!
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  10. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    I used an air hammer and just busted all the heads right off the bolts and they fell out the bottom! I dont know about the gas tank though mine was already dropped because i was pulling the body off the frame. The torque specs are: all 20ft. lb. except for rear #2 which is the first one in the bed behind the seats, that one is 50 ft. lb.
     
  11. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    Almost fergot, don't forget about the shims!
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I'm curious on your '90 Jimmy's rear-most mounts.

    My truck has an '81 frame/tank in it, and I'm wondering if the '90 was still using the bracket I'm talking about. Captures the lower part of the body mount, and is L-shaped, also holds the outermost bumper brackets in place?

    Couldn't get mine out because of the rivets in the frame forward of that mount, and wouldn't come out the half moon shaped opening in the rear of the frame where the gas tank crossmember was. The "seam" on the tank prevented the mount from coming out towards the center of the truck.
     
  13. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    The two bolts that are closest to the rear, go through the frame, and you are able to access them with a socket through a hole in the frame. I had trouble with my driver's side rear bolt being out of line with the hole in the frame. I got it out by cutting the head off the bolt in the bed then jacking up the bed until I could reach the bolt and cut it off. Just one of those little glitches that made an otherwise simple job, a PITA.
     
  14. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    So there was no bracket there?

    With the bracket mine has/had (since modified) you could get at the nut no problem through the frame, but the bracket wouldn't come out without removing the tank. With the lower half of that mount "captured" in the '81 bracket, and the Poly lower half being thicker, the bracket *had* to be removed for modification to fit the Poly lower half. As it is now, the Poly lower half sits on top of that bracket, but is not held in place by it.

    On mine that "bracket" acted also as the washer between the frame and the lower mount half.
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Not calling anyone stupid of course (because it took me a few minutes to see it), but those of you that didn't have to pull the tank, DID remove the part of the mount that sits inside the frame, right? I know some of you just did body lifts, but I wouldn't have even seen the lower mount (since I started there) except the bolts were too short after putting the lower mount in place, which ended up being "over" the stock lower half.

    I think a couple of us are on different pages though...you can get to the bolt/nut for the rear most mounts no problem, it's actually removing and replacing the rear lower mount half/bracket thats the problem.
     
  16. nofeartruckin00

    nofeartruckin00 1/2 ton status

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    I know what bracket you are talking about now. Its the one that is inside the frame rails, with the nuts welded on for the bumper. My '91 had those, so i take it that all the years had them. I refused to remove the tank (ok, just too lazy to do it), so i just bent the top part of the "L" up and out of the way to slide the bolt in. Now that I don't have the stock bumper on, those 2 brackets are just floating around between the frame rails. I believe it is pretty close to impossible to remove with the tank still in the truck. And if i remember correctly, it was pretty hard to tell there was actually a bracket in there. At first i assumed the 2 nuts for the bumper bracket were just tacked to the frame.
     
  17. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Not calling anyone stupid of course (because it took me a few minutes to see it), but those of you that didn't have to pull the tank, DID remove the part of the mount that sits inside the frame, right?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Dorian, I won't disagree with you because it is difficult to tell what someone else may have done before you, but I did not remove anything other than the bolt, and cleaned up the existing mount. No bracket. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  18. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    What held your bumper brackets in place then?
     
  19. Dale fan

    Dale fan 1/2 ton status

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    well I don't know about the body mounts but i just pulled the rear bumper of my 90 and the outer brackets are held on through two bolts that are through the frame with the nuts inside the frame and have a small access hole and are real PIA's. The inners are just bolted through the rear of the frame rails and also hold the rear gate assist springs. While I wasn't looking at the body mounts I didn't see any bracket back there.
     
  20. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    What "Dale Fan" said.
     

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