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Best way to lock my 60?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by KRAZIE87K5, Aug 18, 2002.

  1. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Okay... finally think its time to lock up the front. But which way is best? I bet most people will say ARB, but I have heard problems with those... what to do?

    -Dan
     
  2. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I voted "other."

    I say go with a Powr-Lok. They are a 4-pin spider carrier, unlike the Trac-Lock, which is a 2-pin. The Powr-Lock is stronger than the Trac-Lock. Using a locker like these will still allow you to be able to steer the truck. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  3. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> But the powr-lok is still a L/S, not a locker. It's really stong L/S, but a L/S still, I overcame the bias on my old one that I ran in the front a couple of times. A ARB gives you the best of both worlds, gotta go around a tight turn, hit the button and turn it off, need ultimate traction. hit the button again and turn it on. I would vote for the OX but the pricing on that thing sacred me pretty good. Drivetrain Direct quoted me $1500 for just the locker, the cable was extra on top of that. </font color>
     
  4. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I would never run an ARB because of the possibilities of water in the air lines.

    I would also not run the OX locker because of the cable and the possibilities of binding can happen.

    I prefer a hands-free L/S or locker that I don't have to worry about. Just leave it alone and let it do the work by itself. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  5. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    detroit
    wanna buy my powerlok?
     
  6. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    you got one (intact preferrably /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif) you want to sell? /forums/images/icons/wink.gif Might just do that... lets see how the poll goes...

    -Dan
     
  7. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    in my truck with 4.88s
    I want a detroit for 3.54s
     
  8. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    the powerlok steering takes some getting used to
    it stays locked up until the differencial pressure is enough to overcome the clutches then it acts as an open
    it does not gradually change it is rather sudden
    you feed input into the steering until it breaks free then reduce the steering input
    only really tricky in the snow/ice everywhere else you dont notice it
    but like any LS when you really want it to lock it opens up.

    front detroit and Lockright owners all seem to love theirs so I am gonna take the plunge when I redo the difs
     
  9. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    I voted "Other"---Lock Right /forums/images/icons/grin.gif cheap and is pretty damn strong
     
  10. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    EEEEWWW! Lock Right... I've had REALLY bad first-hand experience with them in an 88 IFS I had. Went thru 3 lock-right units (they were covered under the warranty though!), before the 4th managed to completely grenade my 10b carrier on the way out... /forums/images/icons/mad.gif I'd be ULTRA pissed if a lock-right fawked up the 60! So - I would rather eat a lock-right before I installed another one into one of my vehicles! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    -Dan
     
  11. azblazor

    azblazor 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I vote power-lock. Mines going in on tuesday.
     
  12. rodzzilla

    rodzzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Detroit it and forget it. Put a cutting brake on the rear if needed.
     
  13. Rolled

    Rolled 1/2 ton status

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    Hi guys

    This might sound simple to you guys but what exactly are all these variations of lockers? I have hubs that go to free/lock but have no clue what you all are talking about /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

    Are you guys talking about posi?

    Anybody care to give a brief description of "lockers" and why you would want to use them?

    Sorry for the newbie question but I see this term "locker" so much I thought it was about time I learned what it meant./forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  14. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Read this page, you will learn alot about various types of traction aiding devices, including lockers and limited slips. </font color>
     
  15. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    I completely agree w/ you on this----BUT----i have one in my truck and it has given me no problems what so ever-----i have seen them blow up in rear 1/2 tons and seen front 1/2 tons hold up pretty well (springer) so i said **** it and went w/ it. it seems that the 60 LR is WAY beefy and and have heard MANY people say that it holds up to more abuse than the detroit (60)---id have a little talk w/ BadDog too on this one cause i think we are in the same boat. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  16. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    On the other hand if you have the $$ to spend then i'd go detroit----but thats why i didn't go that way $$
     
  17. tipoil

    tipoil 1/2 ton status

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    Best bang for a buck!!! weld it!!
    for winter driving u just put a lock on and the other one stay in free mode!!
    for price and traction this deal can be beat!!!
     
  18. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    In my opinion it's hard to beat the lock-right for the money. The strength limitations of drop-in style lockers, such as the Lock-Right, are the stock carrier. Sure, a Lock-Right for a 10-bolt is going to be a lot weaker because a 10-bolt is weaker but one is a Dana 60 should hold up reasonably well.
     

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