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Best way to tie in rockers, put on your thinkin cap and come in please!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by supersize75, Sep 23, 2003.

  1. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    Ok first off, this weekend I am cutting up that fresh paint and replacing the factory rockers with 2x3" 120 wall , then it is going to be moved up to the area of the lower hinge, rocker will go from front fender to the back!

    But hear is the controvercy.....

    1. Tie in to frame, use bushing for some give..

    2. tie in to frame, use NO bushings give's it rigidness.

    3. or don't go to frame, just beef up the blazer subframe under the floor and spread the load.

    I need to figure this out by friday /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

    The only reason I can think not to go to the frame is that it may want to stress the body at the rocker or crack it. My other thought is that if I don't go to the frame that all the load from a impact will go to the body-mount bolts, not good with my body lift /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    So what do you say /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Re: Best way to tie in rockers, put on you thinkin cap and cone in please!

    Tie it into the frame, but leave yourself a little space between the tubing and the body so that it can move without moving the body (say 1/4" or so). That way, it'd be rigid, but wouldn't affect the body.
     
  3. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Best way to tie in rockers, put on you thinkin cap and cone in please!

    Cant leave any space, is going to be part of the body /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Re: Best way to tie in rockers, put on you thinkin cap and cone in please!

    I take option number three then. Weld it to the body and distribute the load. I wouldn't tie the frame and body together solidly, that's a no-no. So is using a bushing on something structural. Can you imagine having a bumper on a rubber bushing? Nah, screw that. Just use the body and do a good job.

    Anybody else have an opinion?
     
  5. weisel

    weisel 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Best way to tie in rockers, put on you thinkin cap and cone in please!

    #3
    But I'll help you do it any way you want this weekend.

    Who raised rockers? How did you do it, and how do you like it?
     
  6. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Re: Best way to tie in rockers, put on you thinkin cap and cone in please!

    if done correctly, #3 is fine IMO. the offroad.com guy didnt even really beef the body or tie the new rockers into much of anything and he still dropped his 6k lbs rig on em with no damage. I'd do the mod identical to the way he did, then just look for some parts of the subframe that look suitable to beef up a lil and link em to the new rockers. Be really easy in the rear, box the part of the subframe that comes down right in front of the rear wheel wells and run some tube from them to the rockers. gusset, x-brace as needed. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    j
     
  7. Blazr77400

    Blazr77400 1/2 ton status

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  8. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Shawn,

    You know how I did mind, but like we talked about, my blazer is never going to win the beauty contest.

    I cut the body, and welded to the frame and the body, the rear door support and the front windshield support.

    I gained almost 13" on clearence on each side. I have not had any issues with mine, and I have beat the hell out of it. Hell the last time out, I had the blazer on it's side on the the rocker and damn near drove out of the situiation.

    I don't have an issue with the bushings either, that's what Marv uses, but WTF, just cut em....

    You really don't have to worry about cutting the rockers, cause sooner or later the rocks will do it for you. The more you cut the better off you are. Just make them strong and so that nothing hangs up under them.

    Oh and while you are at it, might as well toss the doors, they don't work with cut rockers, if you cut them real far up.

    HA!!!!!! Good luck.


    My last comment, I don't have a problem with cutting or not cutting, but just some words of wisdom, why don't you go out and run a few trails before you hack the rockers. Get the feel of what it's like first, once you cut the rockers, it's over, the body is toast and there is no going back. Go on a few runs first before you do this mod. Then you will get a better understaning of what we are talking about. Since you have yet to wheel the blazer in the rocks, wait about a month and hit a few runs, hell Jambore is right after Moab, then make the mod, you may not what to do it. Plenty of wheeling in AZ without tearing the $hit out of a rig.

    Just my .02

    Good luck
    Rob
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Some good advice there.

    I welded the box tube to the body only and tied it into the body mount structures. It will take one hell of a beating before doing any real damage to that area now...

    Rene
     
  10. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    Rob your wisdome is tried and true,

    But this sawzaw tells me other wise, my Blazer does look nice, but that is not my goal here, I know I want to cut them and will do it regaurdless of any pre wheelin, the body will go, its not if but when I tear it up.

    I have very little money in this paint or interest for that matter, hell it didn't even turn out the color I wanted it to, also I figure my g/f can't whine about the wind in her hair while we drive if she cant even get in the damn thing /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    I also feel that having the rockers done before I wheel it will prevent nasty major damage that could be prevented.

    Like I said...Bring on the rocks!!!!
     
  11. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    lol, I searched and found that just a few hours ago /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  12. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Some "?" for you. Is yours a '75 or is it a later model w/ the top cut off? If it is a '73-75 do you still have the stock rocker boxes (the ones that go below the floor? If yes to the first two, are you going to keep the rocker boxes? If the answer is yes AND you are going to run w/o doors cut the rocker panel off and cut the floor 3 7/8" inside the outboard edge of the rocker box and weld in a some 4x4 square tube. You need to slice out a wedge to clear the kick up for the body mount. If you want to do it like this let me know and I'll get out the dimensions for you. Here is how mine turned out. (I also trimed the rear quarters above the floor.)
    [​IMG]

    Note: fixed a few things I had forgotten about, I did this over a year ago so a few details got fuzzy.
     
  13. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    I cut out my rockers totally. Right to the weatherstripping flange. I plan on running a slider off the frame. I do not trust the body mount bolts to support those kinds of upward forces that would be generated by setting a 3 ton rig on a boulder.
     
  14. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    My body is a 75, but I already cut out the factory rocker box that is found on the 73-75, so thats not an issue, also your look to low for me, I want to go way up!
     
  15. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Mine go between the floor and the factory rocker box, they just fill up the space inside. That makes them the same height as the rocker panel. If I hammered over the lip that the rocker panel mounted to that give me the look of a little more clearance, but the reality of it is any time that lip hits a rock, it folds. If you want more clearance than what the stock rocker gave my way wouldn't get it. Also, with the box gone the bottom "mount" would be gone, though. They are welded to the floor and the box.
     
  16. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    I thought about doing like yours, but desided it isn't enough, sound like an easy way to do it though
     
  17. 77ChevyK10

    77ChevyK10 1/2 ton status

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    #3
    just my .02
     
  18. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I thought you tied yours into the frame?
     
  19. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    I'd still cut all the door sill off. That way you removed the drop and narrowed the center of the truck (if you leave the doors at home). How about make a new rocker box that only hangs down an inch and fill the gap w/ 1x3 tube? You'd have work around that fwd body mount, though. Maybe use it as one of the mounting points? Or do it like Glen did in his ORC write up w/ 1" high tube and also remove the sill area? That's all I can think of w/o laying under the truck. My only other sugustion is if you mount to the body spread the load out as much as you can.
     
  20. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    My goal was to spread the load of an impact over 5 feet of the body. Too much leverage going to the frame...it's a ways in there.

    Rene
     

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